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The Black Hills can be a lot of fun in June and early July, but by the middle of July they do get crowded. And yes avoid late July and early August due to Sturgis and is cast of crazies.. A trip to Devil's Tower via Belle Fourche and taking SD 34 to Wy is a nice ride especially when you include Spearfish Cannon on the way. I have added a link to a map of the Black Hills and surrounding area so you can plan accordingly. Enjoy your trip and if you would like a nice steak, try Elk Creek Steakhouse off of I90 near Piedmont. http://southdakotarides.com/images/data/files/MotorcycleSkillRatedMapBlackHills.pdf Rick F.

My understand is they both wear over time since it is metal on metal. I believe the needles would wear less the nozzles but with 45K on my bike, I just wanted to change them out. I am leaving towards the Yamaha Vmax needles since they are still available and just ordering them. I can try them out and if I dont like them switch them out for my old VR needles. Least it is easy to do then just about anything else on the carbs. Rick F.

I have always thought that maybe the EFI system off of a FJR might be adaptable since it is also a 1300cc.. I think just splitting the rack in two would be the biggest challenge using it. It wont be a cheap conversion but I think it would be doable. I have seen the EFI racks on ebay but it might be cheaper to find a whole parts bike and use all the parts off of that.. Just my thought but good luck with it all and let us know how it goes.. Thanks Rick F.

I believe the windshield are the same for all 1st gen, just the trim piece is different is all.. I am not able to get you a picture of my 89 with out the chrome trim just now but I might be able to by Sunday evening if you still need it. Rick F.

I am getting ready for a rebuild of my carbs for my 89 VR and am wondering what people are using for replacement needles? The factory needle for the 86-93 Venture is part number 1NL-1490J-00-00, which is Mikuni # 5DZ3, which of course is no longer available from Yamaha or anywhere else it appears. I have looked at the Canadian Yamaha site and see the 89 VR carbs use a part # 1UM-1490J-00-00, but it appears this also is not available anymore. I did order the Keyster Carb kit, K-1359YK, which is listed for the Vmax 1200 and the Venture 1300 and does include a needle in it. It is labeled Y338 but not sure what is specs actually are. Just curious as to what people are using when rebuilding their carbs. Thanks Rick F. [h=2][/h]

Sorry to hear you gave up on it but I totally understand.. some times it is the best thing for our sanity in the long run. Rick F.

One of the things you need to do when wet checking is to get the bike on the center stand and then use a jack to make sure the carbs are level. This most likely means jacking the bike up a bit in the front. If you have the service manual, I am seeing a description on the procedure on page 5-9 of the 86-93 Venture service manual. It also states the open the drain tube with the tube attached and warm up the engine. It doesnt really say, but I am wondering if you need to take the measurement with the engine idling so that you see the float and needle working to maintain the correct level? If I need to do this I think I would make marks on a clear tube for the center line of the slider and the level desired for the fuel to be at. Keep up informed of your progress if you would.. Thanks Rick F.

The issue with just picking needles is there need to be the correct size. Using the Yamaha parts listing for the different bikes doesnt tell us if they will actually fit. If we had the Mikuni part numbers from them might help us get something close that might work. I have the Keyster K-1359YK carb kit to use on my 4 carbs next month, has to warm up enough in the garage to work. It is made in Japan and does include a replacement needle, labeled as a Y-338, but I have no idea if it work with the Venture as I am guess it is more for the Vmax. I been searching the net for some replacement but not having much luck and am considering a set of Yamaha stock Vmax needles as they still sell them. They are close and might just work and if not, they are very easily changed out. Here are the measurement I have came up with so far from different sources online. Part no. Mark Slots Length Dist.1 Dia 1 Dia2 K1 K2 K3 K4 K5 K6 A1 A2 A3 A4 A5 A6 J8-5EZ43 5EZ43 1 50.600 3.000 3.000 0.000 16.400 39.400 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 1.15 10.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 Vmax 1200 J8-5DZ03 5DZ3 1 50.500 3.000 3.000 0.000 15.700 36.700 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 1.00 8.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 Venture 1300 J8-5GLZ37 5GLZ37 1 50.500 3.000 3.000 0.000 16.300 20.300 34.300 0.000 0.000 0.000 1.45 3.00 7.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 Venture 1200 Anyway if we can find out the part number of the needles in question, we might find something close to use. Rick F.

That does make sense on the aftermarket parts. I am going to keep on eye on them and see how it goes. I been looking for the correct replacement needles for the Venture but I am having no luck in locating them so I was thinking of the factory ones for the Vmax. It does have a different taper to it but it is close and might be worth a try.. Least the needles are easy to replace if needed.. Heck most of us here are wrenching on our rides cause we enjoy it and the challenge of keeping them running correctly.. Good luck and keep us informed.. and if we ever need help taking the carbs off, we know who to go to now.. Rick F.

Welcome.. the oil filter part number in Fram is a CA6002, with Yamaha's part number, 1J7-13441-10-00. It is the standard filter for most Yamaha that use the drop in one. Some of the plastic is still available from Yamaha but it is very hit and miss with mostly misses. You can sometimes find useful items on ebay or there are some motorcycle junk yards that still have items available. Here is a parts list that you can see what you need and what is available.. http://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/5107f83cf870022108d6578d/cowling-1 Sometime posting what you need in here in the groups, a member might have a good item they are willing to part with. You might want to also check the coolant in the bike and swap it out if you dont know how long it has been in there. These bikes do leak coolant in the cold winter months a bit so they usually need to be topped off each spring. I personally use seafoam in just about every tank of gas I out into the bike. About the only time I dont is when I am riding all day and I usually add it to my last tank before I park it. Do you have the service manual for the bike yet. If not it is located in the tech section here under 1st Gen and it a great source for doing maintenance on the bike. A former member made it into a PDF file for us to use. And when you get around to it.. We need pictures of your pic.. Ask away on anything and we will do our best to steer you in the right direction.. Rick F.

Was just rereading the whole post and a couple of thoughts came to mind.. referring to the part diagram located here.. http://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/5107f835f870022108d6576a/carburetor-non-california-model Did you replace the o-ring, item 31 that goes between the main nozzle, item 32 and the jet block, item 30? Also did you use a new gasket, item 33? Make sure that there is a washer, item 27 on the screw, item 26, that cover the opening into the nozzle area. Just trying to eliminate possible issue here.. Did you replace the main nozzle and needle, item 8, also? I know that the needle is not longer available from Yamaha dang it.. I plan on using a Vmax needle in my replacement. It is possible that if the nozzle and needle were not replace that they as not sealing the opening in the nozzle tightly and it is allowing fuel to get by them and causing the flooding. They do wear and that causing the nozzle opening to get oblong instead of round. It they were tight then I would expect the fuel to rise in the float bowl but not seep out as it is appearing to do now. When you rebuilt your carbs, do you strip them all the way down and soak them in any carb cleaner? Did you blow out all the air passages after cleaning the carbs? I think you have the float levels correct so I am trying to think of what could cause the issue you are having and these things came to mind. I am planning a carb rebuild myself and have been working on getting all the parts I will need and plan on replacing a lot of the parts in the carbs. The ethanol in the gas today just wreck havoc on the parts in this old carb. I figured replace what I can and hopeful have another 20K of troublefree carbs. Good luck and let us know what you find and how it is going.. Rick F.

Another trick to use to get them out is the straw that comes with a can of WD-40. It should fit into the hole of the oring and washer and you can pull it out that way. Or spray a little WD-40 in there with the straw all the way in can help also. Rick F.

One thing comes to mind and just want to check with you... The needle valve for the fuel inlet has a wire attach to it that has a cut in the wire. Are you fitting the float tab into the cut of the wire. That is how it is suppose to go. I have included a photo of the Keyster Carb kit, K-1359YK. It is available on ebay or I ordered mine from http://www.siriusconinc.com. They also have a set of rubber plugs for the bottoms of the jet block for under $20 for all 8. I did order these also but I have tried them to see how they fit but I did just disassemble a carb tonight and can try them tomorrow for you and let you know. It is strange that the carbs are not venting out the tubes on top of the float bowl covers. I take it you can blow air thru those tubes as well. Sorry for some of the basic questions but just mentioning everything. Have you check to see if maybe you have a bad float. Setting the float height when dry is on thing but what about when they are wet. Before you disassemble the carbs again, do the wet float check on them with some clear tubing. The procedure is listed in the service manual and might be worth the time to do it. Least it let you know if the floats are good or if maybe one is sinking a bit and letting too much gas in. Let us know what you find and good luck. Rick F.

I always like that color combo... dont worry you will get those carbs ironed out and will be so pleased that you did when you go out for a cruise and twist that throttle a couple of times.. But I will warn you that your mileage will suck after you do that cause you cant stop doing it when ever you can.. Rick F.

They should be very snug in the block with the flat sides facing each other. I have the Damon Ferraiuolo video on rebuilding carburetors and he strongly suggest that no matter what you replace in the carb, you need to replace the jet block plugs. It shows him installing them and he has to push hard to get the new ones into their respected holes. Here is a short Youtube of his on rebuilding the carbs. He is doing a Vmax but they are the same carbs as ours. He sells the video on a carb rebuilding and a engine rebuilding. The carburetor video is from start to finish and is very well explained in all steps of disassemble and reassemble with what to watch out for. He can be contacted at Damon_Ferraiuolo@msn.com for prices and such. Rick F.

How full is the oil in the engine? Check it with the bike on the center stand please. Usually we only fill it to the bottom indicator on the sight glass. If you have it at the full mark on the sight class you can get some oil ending up in the airbox for blow by. I have actually disconnected the breather line and replaced it with a filter to help with this issue. If you download the service manual, this is instructions and pictures in there on how to do a test of the float levels with the bike running. They show using a gas tube but I would think clear hose would work also. You are comparing measurement against the carbs. This will at least show you just where the float level is set to. Hope this helps you.. Rick F.

Did you replace the 2 jet plugs that are at the bottom of the jet block with new ones or at least check them to make sure they are nice and tight? They have been know to get loose with time as they sit in gasoline all the time. If they are loose they could be allowing fuel to flow up into the Pilot air jet #2 which is in the top of the carb. This could explain the mist and fuel you are seeing after it sits for a while. The fuel is getting hot and expanding as the bike sits and being pushed up and out of the carbs that way. If that old Calif smog crap was not letting air past the fuel would take the path of least resistance. I know that means pulling the carbs off to check but it is the thing I would do if it was my bike, that is if you didnt replace them. Hope this help Rick F.

Service Manual for the 86-93 Ventures is available here. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...ervice-Manuals there is a link to where you can download it and then check out page 2-21 for a diagram of the CA system.. The brass nipple you see in the pictures does appear to vent to the atmosphere. Rick F.

Service Manual for the 86-93 Ventures is available here. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?3384-First-Gen-Service-Manuals there is a link to where you can download it and then check out page 2-21 for a diagram of the CA system.. Rick F.

I was doing some checking on the parts diagram for an 89 VR as I didn't see the Venture listed for the 86 or 87 years. Here is a link to the canister for the CA emissions. http://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/5107f827f870022108d6572f/control-device-for-california-model-only http://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/5107f827f870022108d6572e/carburetor-california-model-only It shows some of the hoses and where they are connected to. The CA models have the vent tubes from the carbs connected together to a T fitting that is in the middle of the carbs. It looks like from the diagram that the T connects to the another T that connects to a valve of some sort. Price listed doesnt even call it by name. The other connects goes to another T which then connects to the center connection of the canister with the other connection to some roll over valve. The outer nipple on the canister goes to the carb connection on carb #4 . There is no fuel regulator on this bikes, just the fuel pump is all. So that shouldn't be an issue there. The fuel pump and filter are located on the left side of the bike along the swing arm. I would check the fuel filter to make sure it is in good shape. There is also a screen filter that is located in the carbs above the float valve seat, #35 on carb diagram. I had a friend that pulled it out and it was corroded a bit he said so I am not sure if that would be an issue as I would expect that to make a lean condition instead of a flooding one. He also thought his floats where hitting the retaining screw for the jet block as he too was getting some flooding on his bike. I think I would check the CA canister equipment first or see if you can just remove it. This one is a head scratcher for sure.. Good luck and I hope some of this helps you out.. Rick F.

What did you actually replace in the carbs? did you replace the main nozzle and needle, the jet blocks plugs at the bottom of the jet block for starters as the can get loose and allow gas to leak into the float bowl and act like a bad float. The main nozzle and needle will wear over time. The main nozzle can get to be an oblong hole instead of round as it should be with time. This allows gas to flow freely into the engine and will act like a bad float level. We have lowered the needle into the nozzle in the past and this helps for a while. When I first did this to my 89 VR, my mileage jumped up to about 45 MPH.. it has since dropped back to 40 MPH. Does your bike run better when the weather is cooler? Mine is like a different bike when the temps are in the 50's having better acceleration then when the temps are in the 70's +. This is another sign that the nozzle needs replaced. I am just being to get parts to completely rebuild the carbs and replace all of the wear items in them. I also order the carb rebuild DVD that Damon_Ferraiuolo@msn.com produced on rebuilding the carbs. He did it for the VMax but it is the same design as the VR carbs and is worth the money.. Send him an email and he will respond with prices and such. You can check out a bit of it on youtube also... I also found some information on Vmaxforum.net with rebuilding the carbs there. Lots of information there that relates back to the VR. Hope this helps Rick F. http://www.vmaxforum.net

If the pickup coil was bad I wouldnt think it would work with the stock TCI either. I would think something with a cap, wire or coil as the Venture is a wasted spark ignition system, so if 3 of them are firing the the 4th one would too. Make sure your adapter harness is good by ohming out the connection to the coil connectors from the TCI plug end. You should get a reading of zero for two of coil connections to one of the pins in the connector for the TCI. Do you have the wiring diagram for the adapter cable to assist in the troubleshooting? That is where I would start checking first.. If that should good, then pull a cap and get a good plug and check and see if you see spark with it exposed. This would let you see how strong the spark is also. I hope the helps. Rick F.

I was looking at moving my AGM battery to where the coils and TCI box was located. I would lay the battery horizontally in there and then make a shelf and mount the fuse block and other parts on it. I have installed the COPs and the Ignitech at this time. I did mount my Ignitech on top of the battery box for now. Rick F.

Also make sure that the ignitech is also configured for a single coil pickup. Not only do you need the correct wiring plugs but it has to have the correct load in the ignitech.. If you dont have the correct files, lets us know and we should be able to help you out. Rick F.

yes just as the picture shows on the website, http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prody11.html, the casting circle on the jet in the lower middle is like the picture shows. the cut out on the float is level with the top of the circle. The upper right circle bottom is level with the top of the float. This is a good starting point for setting the float level. Rick F.