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I was rereading the thread and wonder, do you ever see the "ON" light on when you push the power button? I was looking over the service manual for the cruise control system and thought we should verify the lights for the housing. You will need to remove the housing with the lights and power switch first and check to make sure the lights are in the correct location. The on light, which is blue light, has black wire connected to it, the set light, green light, has blue/black wire and the resume light, amber light, has a blue/green wire connected to it. It appears that power is supplied to the lights by a red/blue wire. I would check and make sure that the light bulbs are correctly plugged into their sockets so we know that we are seeing the correct lights lite. The set and resume light are routed to the cruise control unit which is that activates them by grounding the circuit. I would also remove the wire connector from the cruise control unit and ohm out the wires for the set and resume switch on the handle bar. Connect on lead to the red/blue wire and the other lead to the green/white and see if you have an open or closed circuit. If it is an open, slide the to the set side of the switch and see what happens. It should show a closed/short/ 0 ohm, if not sounds like a issue with the switch or wires for it. Move the lead from the green/white over to the green/blue wire and see if you have an open, if you do slide the switch over to the resume/accel position and see if it is now a closed/shorted indicator. I would also test the cancel button per the instructions on page 7-147 of the service manual. What you are looking for is 12 volts between the black/red and black wires and then pushing the cancel button, the voltages drops to 0 volts. I am thinking we just need to start back at the beginning and see if we have missed anything. Let us know what you find out and good luck. Rick F.

Looking over my RLU wires, I think the Green/White should be the Green/Red. My RLU doesn't have the G/W in its wiring harness but it does have a G/R. My high beams indicator does function properly and I dont have any alarms showing on the computer panel either. Also looking closing at the picture in post #1 of this tread, http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?109958-Reserve-Lighting-Unit-(RSU)-Bypass-1988-Venture-Royale&highlight=reserve+lighting+unit , you can tell he actually used the Green/Red. Try that and see if that makes a difference for you. So connect the wires like this: Tie Green/Red + Blue/Black + Blue/White together. Tie Yellow/Green + Blue/Red together Tie Black + Light Green together Hope that helps. Rick F.

I am going by memory here, but I recall pushing the power button and all the lights coming on and then just the ON light is shining green. Pushing the set button cause the SET light, Blue light, to come on also and stays on the whole time the cruise is set and working. Hitting the brakes, clutch or cancel button, causes the amber resume light to come on with the blue set light going out. Once the resume button it pressed, the amber light is out and the blue light is back on. I havent got my VR up and running at the moment to verify all of this but maybe someone can double check for us and correct anything stated here that isnt correct. Hope this helps. Rick F.

Yes you do set the float level close when rebuilding the carbs, it can be done a couple of different ways and yes it should be part of his rebuild. I would ask him just what he did in rebuilding the carbs, what parts where replaced and such. Did he replace the float needle seats or just polish them clean. Few of questions for you. 1) Does the bike leak any fuel after running if you put it on the center stand and let it idle for a while? 2) How is the bike running when are riding around and how it is in stop and go traffic? 3) Does it leak fuel when on the side stand or the center stand or both? The issue to me sounds more like why is the fuel pump still running when you turn off the engine. I believe there is a relay that energizes the relay and maybe it is sticking a bit. The relay is located up in the fairing on the right side of the bike and looks to be accessible by removing the headlight. I would recommend checking the service manual for testing procedures. There is a link to the 83-85 service manual in the tech section if you dont have one. If the only time it leaks fuel is when you turn it off then I would look at the fuel pump relay for sure. The pump should not be running when the engine is off. Let us know what you find out if you would. Good luck. Rick F.

There is another link out there with just cutting off the connector from the RLU and soldering some of the wires together and that will get rid of the headlight warning light also. I did that to mine when I added my LED headlight and that did the trick of killing the warning light. Check post #17 is this thread.. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?109958-Reserve-Lighting-Unit-(RSU)-Bypass-1988-Venture-Royale/page2&highlight=reserve+lighting+unit Rick F.

Casey,. We found that we needed to have the dwell set to auto with the Ignitech system to make the tach not bounce around. Once I set mine to auto, never had an issue with the tach again. Sounds like a nice ride to me. Rick F.

The seat actually comes out from the top so you need to push it up NOT pull it down. You will need to remove the plug that is in the carburetor above the seat. I had a friend that was able to push the seat up and force the plug out but this damaged the filter and I have heard of other that drill a hole and use a small self tapping screw inserted into the hole to pull out the plug. The plug is held in by an o-ring is all as is the float needle seat. Once the plug is out just push up from the float bowl on the seat and it should pop out with the filter attached to the top of the seat. You can get replacement filters from Yamaha and I have seen them available from other suppliers, but if you order a new needle seat from Yamaha, it comes with the filter attached to the seat already. Here is a link to a part fiche for the 89 VR carbs. Check out items 34, 35, 36, & 37 for the items mentioned in the post.. http://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/5107f835f870022108d6576a/carburetor-non-california-model Hope this helps and good luck Rick F.

Have you set the slow speed jets and synced the carbs yet? I would do that and check the plugs for spark before throwing any money at it myself. Good Luck Rick F.

I have a 4 yo neighbor girl that wants to go for a ride. So far we have "ridden" from the garage to the drive way and she loves it.. Rick F.

These carbs are sensitive to sync and balance. But I would also verify you are getting spark on all the spark plugs too. Also depending on the mileage it might be time to set the valves also as that can affect how it run. Since you stated you rebuilt the carbs, I am assuming that verified the diaphragms are hole free and that the pilot jet in the jet block is clean and open and that the jet plugs in the bottom of the jet block are very tight. Just some of the things that attribute to a bad running motorcycle.. Let us know what you find out.. Rick F.

Have you check the vacuum pump and the vacuum line to the vacuum activator? The pump is located in the right side of the fairing and the activator is in the left side. The activator is what controls the throttle cable to change speeds. The vacuum line runs a long the front of the fairing to connect the two. It is possible if there is no vacuum, the system will not set and activate. Make sure you are getting a vacuum from the pump and that you see it at the activator end of the line and also check to see if the activator can hold a vacuum also. Also make sure the pump is getting proper power. I would do all of this before changing out the Control unit assemble again. There is a troubleshooting guide in the service manual, least for the 86-93 Ventures and I am sure there is for the 83-85 ones also. Let us know how it is going. Rick F.

I talked with Mark today about some items I would like to buy and we also talked about a kit for the front calipers of the 86-93 Ventures. He didnt realize that the front calipers have different size caliper piston in each caliper. There are two 34mm and two 32mm piston in each one on the front. The rears have the same size for all 4. I told him I had a front one here that I can disassemble and double check measurements and forward him the information. Sounds like with that he will add the kit to his line. I also have new factory seals from Yamaha for the piston that I can also measure for him to ensure the correct parts in the kit. Rick F.

I have to agree on the v-twin.. too much mention of it in the videos for it not to be that. Will be interesting to see but I have a feeling I will be sticking with my 89 VR for a while longer. Rick F.

There is a metering valve on ebay right now for an 83-93 Venture "http://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-1993-Yamaha-Venture-XVZ1300-XVZ1200-FRONT-BRAKE-JOINT-METERING-VALVE-/381996200626?hash=item58f0bf72b2:g:oN0AAOSwdGFYwZb5&vxp=mtr" Looks like they are the same for the 1st Gens no matter the year. Good luck. Rick F.

Can you let us know who the previous owner was so we can go back and check on that he has done or asked us about? This might save us some time in troubleshooting it for you. Thanks Rick F.

I see that there is a manufacture that is now offering brake kits and pads for the Yamaha Venture line from 83-present. The link to their site is https://brakecraftersusa.myshopify.com/ . Right now I see they have complete caliper kits for the 83-85 for the front and rear that even include the o-rings for separating the caliper half's. This is something that Yamaha doesnt supply in the parts catalog. For the 86-93 they are only listing the rear caliper at this time but still include everything needed to rebuild the rear caliper. And for the 2nd Gen bikes, the have numerous parts also. Check it out as it is another option to keep the bikes on the road. Rick F.

Hi ya Casey, I measured the tube for the float bowl vent and it is 8mm. I am not able to access the ones on my bike at this time but should be able to this weekend. I am not sure how long the lines need to be but I plan on pulling my carbs this weekend for a rebuild. I can let you know more then. Rick F.

Looking at the wiring diagram that MiCarl supplied. You will see that there are 3 switches labeled for the Clutch, front brake, and rear break. They are connected to the signalling fuse by a Br (brown) wire and are in series with each other and supply voltage to the cruise vacuum pump and the cruise control unit. Also in series with the above 3 switches is the cancel cruise switch on the right handle bar control assemble. It appears if any one of these switches is activated, the connection to power is broken and the cruise disengages and then would have the resume light come on. I would turn on power and make sure that the fuse is passing power and that it is seated tight in the fuse block. The fuse block has been know to loose it tension on the fuses over time. It is one of the items that a lot of use have replaced. Next see if you get it at the connector to the cruise controller and the cruise vacuum pump. If no power then start working your way to the fuse. Hope this helps and let us know how it is going for you.. Rick F.

Sounds great.. Congrats.. now get out and ride the tires off that VR. Yea a M&E would be great out there.. And maybe it is something that could be arranged as it is a fabulous area to ride for days on end. It is one of my favorite places to ride that is for sure and I do hope to get out there this summer for a nice long weekend ride so maybe we can set up something then. Have a blast riding and just for the heck of it you should try for a 40+ ride one of these days.. Rick F.

One thing to note on his carb rebuild video. It is a Vmax carb he is rebuilding and there is some difference between the Vmax and the Venture carbs. On the Vmax, #4 carb has the plastic cover over the coasting diaphragm, while our Ventures have the plastic cover is on our carb #1 . That is due to the way the choke is set between the bikes. That is one thing I did notice when I went to work on mine. It is an excellent video on the process of tearing down, cleaning and rebuilding the carbs. Rick F.

I have found that tightening the frame mount bolts for the rear subframe assemble can help with some rear end wobble. Also make sure the swing arm bolts/bearing are greased and properly adjusted also. Just some of things I have checked on my 89 anyway.. Rick F.

Another source for the Deka is Mills Fleet Farm as their Road Runner line of AGM batteries is also manufactured by East Penn Manufacturing who makes the Deka line of batteries. I peal a sticker off the Road Runner box to find a Deka label under it on the box just to make sure. Rick F.

I checked the part fiche and there is a different part number for the 83-85( 22U-14190-15-00 ) and the 86-93( 1FK-14190-15-00) needle valve and seat combo. So that does make sense that would would be a different size then. Yamaha has it available so you might just have to order the assemble from them to get the correct one. The way to remove them is to remove the cap on top of the carb above the needle seat assemble and the push up from the bottom of the seat and it will pop out. Now the issue is getting the cap out. You can drill a small hole into it and the thread a self threading screw into it and pull it out that way. It is only held in by an o-ring. The issue with the 83-85 carb is that cap is not available from Yamaha if you mess up and drill all the way thru it. You can also try and push up on the needle seat and use it to force the plug out but there is a filter screen that sits on top of the needle seat assemble and you will most likely crush it. It is available from Yamaha at about $10 a piece so that would be $40 for the 4 or just dont use them is another option. I would contact Carburetor Shop and let them know they have the incorrect needle valve in the kit and see it they can supply you with the correct one. Good luck Rick F.

I am curious on what you mean by the float valve didnt fit, was it too big in diameter, or too tall? Can you clarify on that just a bit. Looking at it, I would either clip part of the new wire retainer on it to match the original equipment one or just move the retainer over from the old one to the new. The float needle we need has the retainer slip over the float tab so it can move up and down with the float. As a side note, I did order 4 of these kits also as I figured that to use Yamaha supplied parts from Partshark.com would run over $50 without shipping per carb while this kit cost $31.00 shipped to my door. Also how long did you have to wait to get them? Thanks Rick F.

Hi Casey, The VR came with just one antenna on the bike but a lot of us have added a second antenna as this separates the CB from the AM/FM. The stock setup is there is a spliter located under the CB that the antenna line goes into and the one line to the CB with the other to the radio. The stock antenna does fold down with the turning of the knurled collar and pulling it up. This collar does thread on tight enough not to rattle loose. There should also be a rubber washer under the antenna where it treads onto the stud for its connection to the cable. The adding of a second antenna is called The Marshall Mod. There are some previous post about this but for our VRs, you need to check your travel bag rack and see if you have antenna bracket mount on the left side of it. If not, then you can try to locate a rack that has one on both sides. I purchased mine off of ebay when I did mine and I believe it came with the antenna bracket also. The brackets are the same so the will mount on either side. I have 4' firesticks on my VR but if I was to do it over I would go with the 3' ones. I personally like the looks of two antennas on the back of the bike which is why I did it but it did seem to improve radio reception also. I havent really used the CB much as I didnt have a mic for it but I did add an EDset to my helmet last spring. Hope this helps you. Rick F.