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I hope all goes well for you. I would say ride it for the summer and see how it goes before doing too many mods to it. Go out and enjoy it... Rick F.

Glad that worked for you, but I would strongly suggest that you download the service manual for the bike from this link.. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?3384-First-Gen-Service-Manuals It will help you with all you are trying to do and where things are located and such. I use mine all the time when I am working on my bike. The two red wires coming off the bike are for two different functions. The line with the fuse is for power for the whole bike electrical system while the thicker wire is the lead to the starter replay and then to the starter. You need both in the system for it to work properly. The red flashing light means that there is an issue that the computer sees on the bike. There should be another icon lite on the panel and that will tell you what the bike thinks is an issue. Let us know what icon is lite or take a picture of it and we can let you know how to resolve it. Besides checking for spark, I would look into the gas tank with a light and see if you have any rust in the tank. If the bike was stored without gas in it then there is that possibility that there is rust in there and that will have to be dealt with first. If this was my project, I would change out all fluids in the bike, including brake fluids, rear end, forks, cooling system, and oil. At this point you dont know how long it has been since it was last done. Here is where the service manual is handing it letting you know what to do. Keep asking question and post pictures and we will do our best to guide you thru it all and have a fine riding bike. Rick F.

I think before I would install the new fuse, I would double check and make sure you dont have a short in the wiring. You should be able to check with an Ohm meter, with the fuse out from the red wire to ground and make sure you see an open, ie very high resistance, verses a short with 0 ohms resistance. Might save you chasing down another fuse or two. There had to be something that caused this fuse to pop in the first place. According to the manual, the main fuse is a 40A. I found that in the specifications section of the service manual on page 8-18 under the circuit breaker section. Hope this helps. Rick F.

Just thought I would share what I have found on replacing the fuel filter on the 86-93 Ventures. I order a replacement from Sirius Consolidated, part # 09-116, up in Canada as they listed it as a replacement for the Venture. When I tried to install this new filter, I was unable to get it to slide onto the existing fuel line. What I found was that the inlet nipple on the filter is 3/8 inch (10.4 mm) where the original Yamaha filter, part # 1FK-24560-10, is 43/128 inch (8.55 mm). The over all length is about the same for both. The reason I bring this up is that if you are not replacing the special fuel line, which of course if N/A from Yamaha, the replacement just simple has too big of a nipple for the hose to slide over comfortably. Here is a picture of the two filters with the SCI on the left and the Yamaha on the right. Hope this helps people out in the future. Rick F.

Glad you are ok.. and from the picture, you had to stop for the school bus no matter what lane he was in as this isnt a divided highway. I have always been trained that you must stop back of the school bus when the red lights are flashing and the stop sign is extended out. I am thinking you will need to get the bummer pushed back down before you can pop open the rear hatch. You might need to use a pry bar to open it but I am sure whoever fixes it is going to replace the rear hatch anyway. Good luck. Rick F.

I was just rereading some of you post and reports back. Question, have you measure the resistance between the end of the spark plug cap, putting the end of the probe into the cap in place of the spark plug and the correct wire going into the TCI unit. What I am thinking is pull the caps off all of the plugs, measure the resistance for all of the spark plugs wires and the corresponding TCI plug wire. ie, measure #1 cap to the orange wire in the connector for the TCI and see what we are getting for resistance. Do this for all the spark plug wires and lets see if they are all close to the same resistance. It could be the TCI, if you had some of the copper traces come off the board, that would cause issues for sure. The best way to replace them is to use insulated wire to run between the points where the traces have been lifted. Of course another issue is if it is a multi-layer circuit board with plated through holes. That can be a whole another story. I have not had my TCI apart so I can not say just how it is layed out or even guess where the traces all go. I would imagine that not even Yamaha has the schematic for it as it was most likely supplied by a 3rd party vendor and if repairs were needed, they sent it to them. When you said you got it running that last time and the tachometer worked, that makes me think that #2 coil is being fired or I should say the circuit is being grounded as I believe that is how the spark is getting generated. Looking at the circuit diagram, the lead for #2 coil, the gray wire, also provides signal for the tach and the fuel pump relay control, which in turns supplies the power for the fuel pump. If you had no voltage on the gray wire, that wouldnt power on the fuel pump and you would not be getting it to run. I believe that we have a constant 12v on the gray wire since that isnt dependent on the TCI unit. But the tach needs to see that drop if voltage, ie signal, to measure the RPMs of the engine. So that is why for me, the tachometer working when the bike was running tells me that the TCI is grounding the voltage on the gray wire for #2 coil as it needs the signal to generate a RPM reading. I would try getting some nonresistance spark plug wire. Parts Unlimited does sell 7mm in 72" pieces and it is fairly inexpensive. Dennis Kirk list it for $3.95 just to give you an idea. You could also pick up some NGK spark plug 5K ohm caps just to make sure they are good also. Caps are under $10 each also. I was able to replace my wired without taking the coils off the bike or removing the main fairing. I did remove the side panels and lowers to access the coils. The caps on the coils screw on and off and have small o-rings around the wire inside the caps, so be careful not to have them get misplaced. If you like I could try testing your TCI unit as I have my connection on top of the air cleaner also. I dont have my bike out for the season yet as I still have a lot of snow on the ground here in Minnesota. But I can get to mine and I could test it out for you and maybe check out your soldering and such in the TCI unit. I was an electronics bench tech at one point in my life long ago. Sorry for all the different thoughts and such here, thinking about this as I type and different ideas pop in my head about it. Let me know how things go and we can see what we can do to get this resolved for you. Rick F.

Yamaha is the only place you will find a new one from unless someone has one on Ebay or somewhere that they purchased new and didnt use and is looking to sell it. You can find the rebuild pieces at Yamaha and I believe some of the aftermarket suppliers have them also. No matter what you will need a new gasket for the cover as you have to remove it to access the slave cylinder. Rick F.

Not sure if you have done this but what I would do next is to get a new spark plug and pull the cap off of #2 plug and attach it to the new spark plug and with an insulated pair of pliers, hold the spark plug and ground the side of it to the engine and verify either a spark or none. Then do it again for #4 cylinder also. We know we are getting the tach to work so we are trying to fire the coils on that side. At this point I dont believe it is your TCI unit, so I am ruling that out for now. If you see a spark when doing the test it is possible that you are looking at a carb issue and might need to looks at those. If no spark, then it could be a coil issue or spark plug wire or cap issue. Let us know what you find out. Rick F.

If you dont have a air gun, you can order the Clutch holder as they are available on the aftermarket. The Yamaha part # YM-91042 for the clutch holder. I did a google search and came up with multiple different ones. Motion Pro has one for $25 MSRP. Just letting you know they are out there. Rick F.

That could be the connection for the California emissions air vent control valve. My wiring diagram shows it with Brown and Black wires into it but the location looks correct. What color wires do you have in that connector? There is a fuse for the ignition and it is #4 on the fuse panel. If it was bad, I dont believe you would have spark on 1 & 3. For timing to be off on this bike would mean that something is broken in the flywheel area as that is where the pickup is located. The timing isnt really adjustable. I am still leaning towards the secondary side of the coil. Do the ohm test and then one with the cap and wire connected to the coil. Also when you cut the spark plug wire, did you notice a small o-ring on the spark plug wire up by the coil. there is one there that help retain the wire in the screw on cap for each coil. Make sure you have those there for all 4 wires. Check out the troubleshooting chart on page 7-28 of the service manual. This is where you can do an ohm test of the pickup coils and might help with this issue. Good luck.. Rick F.

Wild guess on the connector, what about your Pressure sensor, do you have it connected to the wiring harness. If I recall it is on the left side of the bike on the coil tray and is were the vacuum line from carb #2 connects to also. If that isnt is, give us a better description of connector and/or a picture of it. Sounds like the coils are being fired if you are seeing the voltage drop, so that should, I repeat, "should" rule out the ignition box I would think. I would pickup an inline spark plug tester from Walmart, Autozone or some parts store and use it to test the coils, wires, and caps on the bike. You could also try the resistance testing of the coils as described in the service manual on page 7-30. I would also measure thru the plug wires and cap to make sure you dont have an open in there also. Good luck and just stick with it as you will lick this issue soon. Rick F.

I had the same issue with a replacement Fram oil filter also. I was just thinking it was a bad 0-ring but I guess it is the wrong one if you had the issue also. I just ended up reusing the one I pulled off as I didnt have a new one on hand to replace it and when I checked, no oil leaks there. Rick F.

As far as I know, the only place to get a new replacement thermostat cover is from Yamaha. They still list them in the parts listing as well as the o-ring and thermostat seal. Look under the water pump section to find them. Depending how far you wanted to take this, you could also replace the o-rings for the joint pipe that connects the water pump to the thermostat housing and also the o-ring to the drain cock assemble. (this is in the radiator hose section). When I replaced the hoses on my 89, I found the thermostat cover in good shape and not needing replacing but I was experiencing a small leak from the drain cock assemble in the cold parts of the winter and would have antifreeze on the floor. I used Skydoc_17 FIRST GEN. (1983-1993) RADIATOR DRAIN UPGRADE KIT! This is available in the member vendors classified ad section. This seems to cured my winter leak as so far this winter I have no antifreeze on the floor. Hope this helps you out. Rick F.

Quick question, when taking off the side cover #2 , was there a small brass washer on the bottom bolt? Reason I ask is that there is one there. The bottom bolt can be use to drain the oil out of the transmission and from the look of the Kickstand safety switch, there appears to be some oil on that. More so then anything else I see in the pictures. I dont see much evidence of any major oil leaks on this side of the bike. The stator wires look clean to me and I wouldnt expect them to be your leak and everything else look reasonably clean. Good luck with the search as I am interested in what you find as I need to check out my 89 also.. Rick F.

Does your tachometer work when the bike is running? It used the #2 coil to detect spark and give a reading, this also drives the fuel pump relay. These bike use a wasted spark ignition so that would explain why both 2 and 4 are not firing as I believe they use the same circuit in the ignitor unit. If you open the ignitor back up you should have solder joints that are nice and shiny and not a dull gray. You can verify the diodes with a ohm meter and make sure they are good. I would also try and verify I am getting the proper voltage thru the coil on the 12v side. See if you can hook up a wire to the gray wire, Gy, on the #2 coil and still keep the coil connected. Hook the other end of this wire to the postive probe of a DVM set to 20VDC and the negative end of the probe to ground. Next start the motor and look for any rise or drop in voltage. If I recall, these coils fire with the loss of the 12 volts across the primary. So what the ignitor unit is doing is openning the circuit to fire the spark plug. You should see this one your DVM by the change in voltage. You might see if rise to 12v but it should show some change. An old analog meter would be better but those are harder to find. Not sure if this will tell you a lot of not but it might be worth a try. Hope this help. Rick F.

Looking at the wiring diagram, I would not expect voltage on the blue wire when the engine is cold. I would only expect it when the engine is into the red on the temp gauge. With the ignition in the on position, you should have voltage on one side of the thermo switch and nothing on the other end. You could short the two connectors for the thermo switch together and then turn on the ignition and the fan should start up and run. That would let you know if it doesnt run with the engine is in the red then the thermo switch most likely is bad. With the thermostat housing, I was able to get mine off with the exhaust pipes on, but had the radiator hose off of it along with the radiator. This opens up the area and lets you get a different angel on it. You might need some swivel joint sockets to help out with it. If you havent yet, I would look at replacing your starter with a 4 brush starter. This will help with the starting issues that this bikes have when they are hot. You can find them used on ebay from time to time and you can do a search in the forums here to help you finding what you are looking for. You almost need to have the thermostat housing out to replace it as it makes it a breeze to do then. Hope this helps. Rick F.

Harbor Freight sells a 1/4" torque wrench that goes from 20 - 200 inch pounds. It sells for 19.99 but is often on sale for less. I know it isnt the quality of a professional torque wrench for for just the occasional use it should work for you. Rick F.

The service manual show how to troubleshoot the cooling system on page 7-49 of the XVZ13DS 86-93 Service Manual. If you dont have a service manual you can download a PDF of it from the First Gen Tech Library under guides. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?3384-First-Gen-Service-Manuals This is what I use for most of my troubleshooting and repair information when I am working on my 89 VR. Hope this helps you out. Rick F.

Look in the 3rd Gen section of the forum.. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?133983-YZERNIE-S-NEW-3RD-GEN-Our-FIRST-genuine-owner-operator-3rd-Gen-Ride-Report!! Rick F.

If you need some larger heat shrink tubing, check out Menard's or Home Depot as they sometimes have it in their electrical areas. You can also get some from Harbor Freight as they carry different sizes also. Rick F.

If you haven't located them yet, there are Yamaha service manuals located here. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?3384-First-Gen-Service-Manuals They are in a PDF format but are very helpful in troubleshooting and repair items on the bike. I have left the air defectors in place on my bike as they help direct the heat away from the seat and air filter opening. They can be a PIA to remove and reinstall but once you do it a couple of times you will get the hang of it. For the brakes, a good flush of the old brake fluid might do the trick for you. The manual will show you where the bleeders are located at and the order to do them. Also dont forget to flush the hydraulic clutch fluid also as it can collect moisture also and affect the clutch. The temp sending unit is located under the fairing on the right side of the bike. I would suggest using the manual to troubleshoot it before pulling the fan off of the bike. Might save you a lot of time and frustration. Keep asking away and we will do the best to answer your question and give you advise. Rick F.

The one thing I would recommend is to pay for the on-line tracking if you are in a hurry for the kits. I used the regular cheap shipping and it took about a month to get the kits. Use the cheap shipping if you are not in a hurry. I found this kit, mine is the for 1300 carbs, to contain all the o-rings and gaskets needed. No matter what kit you buy, you will still need to hit Yamaha up for some of the parts. I found that the float needle and seat assemble from Yamaha also includes the filter net that fits on top of the assemble. Hope this helps out. Rick F.

Not sure of any kit but take one of the screws you want to replace to your local hardware store and they should have a stainless screw that will work for you. That is what I did for my carbs. Hope that helps. Rick F.

If no one wants them here, I believe he would have no problem selling them on the Stubhub. I see the cheapest tickets are going for $2600 a ticket and those arent that great of seats. I live here in the twin cities and I plan on staying away from downtown as it will be a zoo. Rick F.

So sad.. I have a ex-girlfriend that is name Lari also.. dont see that name for a lady much.. I thought that Lari White did an excellent job in that movie and always thought that her and Tom Hanks character would have been a great match for a squeal. Rick F.