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Wild guess on the connector, what about your Pressure sensor, do you have it connected to the wiring harness. If I recall it is on the left side of the bike on the coil tray and is were the vacuum line from carb #2 connects to also. If that isnt is, give us a better description of connector and/or a picture of it. Sounds like the coils are being fired if you are seeing the voltage drop, so that should, I repeat, "should" rule out the ignition box I would think. I would pickup an inline spark plug tester from Walmart, Autozone or some parts store and use it to test the coils, wires, and caps on the bike. You could also try the resistance testing of the coils as described in the service manual on page 7-30. I would also measure thru the plug wires and cap to make sure you dont have an open in there also. Good luck and just stick with it as you will lick this issue soon. Rick F.

I had the same issue with a replacement Fram oil filter also. I was just thinking it was a bad 0-ring but I guess it is the wrong one if you had the issue also. I just ended up reusing the one I pulled off as I didnt have a new one on hand to replace it and when I checked, no oil leaks there. Rick F.

As far as I know, the only place to get a new replacement thermostat cover is from Yamaha. They still list them in the parts listing as well as the o-ring and thermostat seal. Look under the water pump section to find them. Depending how far you wanted to take this, you could also replace the o-rings for the joint pipe that connects the water pump to the thermostat housing and also the o-ring to the drain cock assemble. (this is in the radiator hose section). When I replaced the hoses on my 89, I found the thermostat cover in good shape and not needing replacing but I was experiencing a small leak from the drain cock assemble in the cold parts of the winter and would have antifreeze on the floor. I used Skydoc_17 FIRST GEN. (1983-1993) RADIATOR DRAIN UPGRADE KIT! This is available in the member vendors classified ad section. This seems to cured my winter leak as so far this winter I have no antifreeze on the floor. Hope this helps you out. Rick F.

Quick question, when taking off the side cover #2 , was there a small brass washer on the bottom bolt? Reason I ask is that there is one there. The bottom bolt can be use to drain the oil out of the transmission and from the look of the Kickstand safety switch, there appears to be some oil on that. More so then anything else I see in the pictures. I dont see much evidence of any major oil leaks on this side of the bike. The stator wires look clean to me and I wouldnt expect them to be your leak and everything else look reasonably clean. Good luck with the search as I am interested in what you find as I need to check out my 89 also.. Rick F.

Does your tachometer work when the bike is running? It used the #2 coil to detect spark and give a reading, this also drives the fuel pump relay. These bike use a wasted spark ignition so that would explain why both 2 and 4 are not firing as I believe they use the same circuit in the ignitor unit. If you open the ignitor back up you should have solder joints that are nice and shiny and not a dull gray. You can verify the diodes with a ohm meter and make sure they are good. I would also try and verify I am getting the proper voltage thru the coil on the 12v side. See if you can hook up a wire to the gray wire, Gy, on the #2 coil and still keep the coil connected. Hook the other end of this wire to the postive probe of a DVM set to 20VDC and the negative end of the probe to ground. Next start the motor and look for any rise or drop in voltage. If I recall, these coils fire with the loss of the 12 volts across the primary. So what the ignitor unit is doing is openning the circuit to fire the spark plug. You should see this one your DVM by the change in voltage. You might see if rise to 12v but it should show some change. An old analog meter would be better but those are harder to find. Not sure if this will tell you a lot of not but it might be worth a try. Hope this help. Rick F.

Looking at the wiring diagram, I would not expect voltage on the blue wire when the engine is cold. I would only expect it when the engine is into the red on the temp gauge. With the ignition in the on position, you should have voltage on one side of the thermo switch and nothing on the other end. You could short the two connectors for the thermo switch together and then turn on the ignition and the fan should start up and run. That would let you know if it doesnt run with the engine is in the red then the thermo switch most likely is bad. With the thermostat housing, I was able to get mine off with the exhaust pipes on, but had the radiator hose off of it along with the radiator. This opens up the area and lets you get a different angel on it. You might need some swivel joint sockets to help out with it. If you havent yet, I would look at replacing your starter with a 4 brush starter. This will help with the starting issues that this bikes have when they are hot. You can find them used on ebay from time to time and you can do a search in the forums here to help you finding what you are looking for. You almost need to have the thermostat housing out to replace it as it makes it a breeze to do then. Hope this helps. Rick F.

Harbor Freight sells a 1/4" torque wrench that goes from 20 - 200 inch pounds. It sells for 19.99 but is often on sale for less. I know it isnt the quality of a professional torque wrench for for just the occasional use it should work for you. Rick F.

The service manual show how to troubleshoot the cooling system on page 7-49 of the XVZ13DS 86-93 Service Manual. If you dont have a service manual you can download a PDF of it from the First Gen Tech Library under guides. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?3384-First-Gen-Service-Manuals This is what I use for most of my troubleshooting and repair information when I am working on my 89 VR. Hope this helps you out. Rick F.

Look in the 3rd Gen section of the forum.. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?133983-YZERNIE-S-NEW-3RD-GEN-Our-FIRST-genuine-owner-operator-3rd-Gen-Ride-Report!! Rick F.

If you need some larger heat shrink tubing, check out Menard's or Home Depot as they sometimes have it in their electrical areas. You can also get some from Harbor Freight as they carry different sizes also. Rick F.

If you haven't located them yet, there are Yamaha service manuals located here. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?3384-First-Gen-Service-Manuals They are in a PDF format but are very helpful in troubleshooting and repair items on the bike. I have left the air defectors in place on my bike as they help direct the heat away from the seat and air filter opening. They can be a PIA to remove and reinstall but once you do it a couple of times you will get the hang of it. For the brakes, a good flush of the old brake fluid might do the trick for you. The manual will show you where the bleeders are located at and the order to do them. Also dont forget to flush the hydraulic clutch fluid also as it can collect moisture also and affect the clutch. The temp sending unit is located under the fairing on the right side of the bike. I would suggest using the manual to troubleshoot it before pulling the fan off of the bike. Might save you a lot of time and frustration. Keep asking away and we will do the best to answer your question and give you advise. Rick F.

The one thing I would recommend is to pay for the on-line tracking if you are in a hurry for the kits. I used the regular cheap shipping and it took about a month to get the kits. Use the cheap shipping if you are not in a hurry. I found this kit, mine is the for 1300 carbs, to contain all the o-rings and gaskets needed. No matter what kit you buy, you will still need to hit Yamaha up for some of the parts. I found that the float needle and seat assemble from Yamaha also includes the filter net that fits on top of the assemble. Hope this helps out. Rick F.

Not sure of any kit but take one of the screws you want to replace to your local hardware store and they should have a stainless screw that will work for you. That is what I did for my carbs. Hope that helps. Rick F.

If no one wants them here, I believe he would have no problem selling them on the Stubhub. I see the cheapest tickets are going for $2600 a ticket and those arent that great of seats. I live here in the twin cities and I plan on staying away from downtown as it will be a zoo. Rick F.

So sad.. I have a ex-girlfriend that is name Lari also.. dont see that name for a lady much.. I thought that Lari White did an excellent job in that movie and always thought that her and Tom Hanks character would have been a great match for a squeal. Rick F.

Welcome to the group. Could be a number of things. Maybe the previous owner wired it to run all the time, the switch could be bad or maybe there is a toggle switch that the previous owner hooked up to it to control it. I would start by checking out the wiring and seeing if is running to the temperature switch. I dont own a second generation Venture so I not 100% sure on where it is located. Here is a link to a thread with the 99 VR wiring Schematics that might help you.. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?42357-2nd-Gen-Wiring-Schematics-99-09-RSV Here is another link to where you can download the service manual for the 99 VR if you dont have one. It should have a section on troubleshooting your fan and temp sensor that controls it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?1828-Download-the-Owners-and-Service-Manuals Check those out and see if that helps you out and of course ask more questions here. I think someone with a little more experience on the 2nd Gens will pipe in also with information. Hope that helps you get started on it. Rick F.

I have a buddy that just picked up a 2017 F150 and when we was deciding on the engine to get, he asked the mechanics at the dealership and 8 out of 10 said the 5.0L V8 over the ecoboost. Most of the F150 in the shop where ecoboost equipped F150. The ecoboost has to run near max to make the number to be close to the 5.0V. I have a 2011 F150 Lariat with the 5.0 and I get about 18 MPG when driving at about 70 or so. Of course it depends on the weather conditions and wind speed and direction but I am very happy with it. If you are not having any issues with your truck, keep it, maintain it properly and it should last for a long time for you. Hope this helps Rick F.

Looks a lot like Sport Wheel just south of the Twin Cities in Jordan Minnesota. They have a lot of 1st Gen MK1s and a few 1st Gen MK2s but they have been striped of most the good parts or left to the elements with whats left. And yes the weeds grow up around all the bikes just like your picture shows. http://www.sportwheel.com/ Rick F.

Per the service manual for the 86-93 Venture, 5.8ft-lb for the clutch bolts. Refer to page 3-68 in the manual, it is in the engine assembly and adjustment section in the parts diagram. And yes, dont use a 3/8 inch torque wrench but a 1/4 inch one. The 3/8" isnt accurate enough to measure 5.8 ft-lb and you will over-tighten it and snap it off before you know you even did it.. trust me on this.. I actually ended up replacing all of mine with new ones just to be safe. Hope this helps Rick F.

If I recall correctly, the 2 brush starter has a big Phillips type head on the side of the body. The 4 brush does not have this phillips head on the body of the starter. Hope that helps. Rick F.

If you do cook at a camp site, don't wear the clothes you cook in to bed or even store them in your tent as the bears might mistake them for food also with the scent on them. Also a nice ride would be Bear Tooth pass in Montana and Wyoming but it will be a chilly one for sure. Rick F.

I mix Seafoam in all my small engine gas including the motorcycle. I add an ounce or so a gallon before I fill the tank up. I have the option here in Minnesota of using non-ethanol premium gas, which I use in all my small engines and motorcycle. The non-ethanol premium is uses in the bike when I park it for the season but I do add Seafoam to the bike when I park it for the week if I can. Doing it this way I have no issues starting an engine that had been sitting used for 6 months or so. I been doing this for years and it works for me. Hope this helps. Rick F.

If you havent gotten it on yet.. get some all tread rod that is the same size as the bolts and cut it into length that is about an inch longer then the over all length of the bolts. 3 pieces should do it and then space them and screw them in to the case. These will guide the cover with the stator and and let you use the other bolts to secure the cover. Back out the all tread rod and use the remaining bolts and torque it to specs and you should be ready to go. You might also want to make sure the opening that the wires go out has a nice coating of silicon sealant around it and around the wires so you dont have an oil leak from there. You will see this around the kick stand area if you do. You should be able to get the all tread at a local hardware store or maybe one of the box stores. Hope this helps. Rick F.

I see there is a NOS vacuum activator list on ebay for the 86-93 VR and it includes the throttle cable with the activator. If you are still looking for a new cable it looks like you need to buy the whole activator to get a new one. Here is the URL to the ebay page with the item. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1NL-85860-00-00-NOS-Vacuum-Actuator-Yamaha-Venture-Royale-1986-XVZ1300-W2599/312025407096?hash=item48a629de78:g:HWYAAOSwMYxaA5lZ&vxp Also looking at the picture of the cable, you can see the adjustment is located in the middle of the cable so maybe that is where you need to look to adjust it. I hope this helps you out. Rick F.

My first thought would be valve seals might be leaking a bit and with it sitting for a while, allowed some oil to find its way into the cylinders or onto the exhaust valves. I think I would check that out first and of course the antifreeze leak could be the one up by the system drain valve that a lot of us experience. Let us know what you find please. Rick F.