Jump to content

gibvel

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,939

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by gibvel

  1. gibvel
    Thanks Goose!! I, kind of, thought that they may have been part of the AIS but I wasn't sure.
  2. gibvel
    The ones that hook to the vacuum ports on the carb boots at cylinders 2 and 3 and go up above the carbs. Where do they go and what are they for?
  3. gibvel
    Cool payntor, I was looking for pics but couldn't find any. Thanks!!
  4. gibvel
    Left side of the bike. Remove the side panel. See the two rubber hoses coming out of the panel right between carb 1 and 2 on the side of the carbs. Get down a little lower and look up under that panel and you should see a screw with a philips head in the center and a "fluted" edge so you can grab it with you fingers. That's the idle adjust screw.
  5. gibvel
    The reserve petcock is located behind the right passenger floorboard through the plastic panel. Most are way to hard to turn by hand in the small amount of space with the knob that they have. Most just leave the thing on reserve but some have fixed theirs. I believe the method may be in the Tech section of this site but I'm not sure if I saw it before or after the crash last year. I just took a big rod of nylon and cut an appropriately sized and shaped slot so I can turn mine. That being said, I leave the thing on reserve all the time anyway. It would be too awkward to change while riding anyway....IMHO.
  6. gibvel
    There has been some mention of the fuel level sensor getting a worn spot and the wiper not making contact at a certain fuel level. Then, when the fuel level gets a little lower, and the wiper makes contact again, the gauge shows the correct level again. Sounds like what you've got going on.
  7. gibvel
    Just got my 2nd gen last year towards the end of the season. Came with Avon Venoms and can't remember when he put the rear on. I replaced the rear the beginning of this season but probably could have gone another 5K or so on it. The front he just put on shortly before I got it and it's still got lots of tread. I'll look at the records and see what I can find out about actual mileage on the rear tire. I think the most common mileage seems to be between 12 and 15K on the rear and somewhere in the neighborhood of 18K on the fronts. But then this, too, depends on your riding style.
  8. gibvel
    If you want Michelins go somewhere else or order them on-line and have them installed somewhere else. Don talks well of his Michelins and has had no problems and gets good wear, but then that's on a 2nd gen which is even heavier. On the other hand lots of guys around here have the Avon Venoms and are quite happy with them. Some guys, around here, have noticed a wobble with venoms at higher speeds though. As far as Dunlops, which model did the guy mention. If the 404, it's pretty much the general consensus around here to stay away from them......most people eek about 8,000 miles out of the 404s. The verdict is still out on the Elite 3s and I don't believe they have a front tire available for your model yet. Elite 2s 491s are a good high mileage tire. Had one on the rear of mine before I got a 404 not knowing any better. Ooops forgot to mention the Dunlop CruiseMax. One of the guys here has those and loves them.
  9. gibvel
    You'll need an SWR meter and the appropriate cables or connectors. You can find the meter at Radio shack or Sierra electronics: http://www.sierra-mc.com/search.asp (put "SWR" into the search box) If this is on a 1st gen. all you should need to hook the SWR in-line is a PL-259 to PL-259 connector. If I remember correctly you just unscrew the antenna connector......screw the PL-259 to PL-259 connector to the "Transmitter" input on the back of the SWR meter then screw the other end of the PL-259 to PL-259 connector to the place you just unscrewed the antenna wire from. Then Screw the antenna wire into the "Antenna" connector on the back of the SWR meter. Then it's just a matter of calibrating the SWR meter and then tuning the SWR with the splitter screw. Or if you can find a CB shop in the area, you might have them set it for you and save yourself a few bucks on equipment and the hassle DO NOT attempt to talk on the CB if you've adjusted the screw as your SWR may be way off and you could burn out your CB transmitter. BTW, turning that screw will NOT help AM/FM or CB RECEPTION. The only thing that does is match the length of the antenna to the CB transmitter so less of the transmitting power is reflected back.
  10. gibvel
    So, how much fuel did it take to fill it at each fill up?
  11. gibvel
    Well, for the summer, highway pegs would help keep your feet cooler.
  12. gibvel
    Lowell, I think that all you should need is the federal regulation on the subject. The state laws can't supercede the federal law on this. http://frwebgate.access.gpo.gov/cgi-bin/get-cfr.cgi?YEAR=current&TITLE=49&PART=571&SECTION=108&SUBPART=&TYPE=TEXT Paragraph S7.9.4 More condensed version: http://www.webbikeworld.com/Motorcycle-technical-articles/Modulator-regs.htm This page also has a section that says that the states can't supercede the Fed. law. This one is the AMA site and it has the laws for all 50 states: http://www.amadirectlink.com/legisltn/laws.asp Last one gives lots of different laws for the different states. Just click the state you want to see.
  13. gibvel
    Don't tell me, you put the spades in the original connector like you were looking at the front of the connector instead of the back of the connector, right?
  14. gibvel
    Check your oil level. These bikes do not like to be filled more than slightly above halfway up the sight glass. This may be why you're getting this.
  15. gibvel
    There you go!!! That's using your head.....urr, umm, uhhhhhhhhhhh.... yeah!
  16. gibvel
    Not a whole size......probably just 1/2 a size. Bright side to all this hijacking, Jercoupe, We're keeping the tread at the top of the stack for you!!
  17. gibvel
    Take the fuses out and see what quits working.
  18. gibvel
    Might want to post the size.
  19. gibvel
    The one on the right looks like the main fuse for the whole bike. Is it hooked to the + side of the Battery? Don't know about the ones on the left.....maybe fuses for accessories that were added?
  20. gibvel
    That's what I was going to suggest but you beat me to it!!
  21. gibvel
    Stardbog has the same problem here at Fort Collins. If you've got a spare plug take the plug cap off the left rear cylinder and put it on the plug......does it spark? You can also unscrew the plug cap and see if you're getting spark from the wire to a ground. If you're getting spark from the wire to ground it may be the plug cap. If not, probably the coil. Dan was not getting spark at the plug and only a very, very week spark from the wire to ground. Fortunately, he's getting a new coil and everything should be good. Hope you get it fixed!!
  22. gibvel
    The SWR or Standing Wave Ratio is just a measurement of the power coming out of your radio. if your antenna is either too short or too long a portion of the power your are transmitting gets reflected back into your transmitter. If your antenna is off by too much either way then you can have the majority of the power going back into your transmitter and you can burn the transmitter up. By matching the antenna length to the frequency at which you're transmitting, you can make sure that the majority of the power from your radio is going out and not being reflected back. On the OEM antennas you use the little set screws above the load in the middle of the antenna. You loosen them and pull the top rod out or in slightly and then read the SWR on the SWR meter. Keep adjusting like this until you get the lowest reading you can. Fact is, you'll never get it perfect across the board. When I set mine the lower channels are around 1.6 or so. When I get up into the upper channels they're around .2 or so. I optimized mine so I get the best SWR in the higher frequencies. I figure we use 29 so if that's good that's all I need. You'll need an SWR meter and some cables to connect it with but you should be able to do it yourself. Might be cheaper to go to a CB shop or see if anyone on the site here, that's near you, has the equipment and have it done rather than buy the stuff though.
  23. gibvel
    Well, there's a good chance that Roadkill would have a couple of headsets handy. Are you thinking of going with the single or double? If you like the double antenna look and can't get into the single look then go that way. However, if you have no preference keep in mind that the the FM antenna absorbs about 20% of your CB transmit power to the sides of the bike. Front and back are still good. Just a heads up for you and something to think about.
  24. gibvel
    Plain and simple........if you change your present CB antenna to a different CB antenna you WILL have to readjust the SWR. No ifs ands or butts. If you don't you'll run a very high risk of burning up your CB when you transmit. Especially if you go with an antenna of a different length. Switching to a single antenna you still have to adjust the SWR but you'll also need a splitter. That's explained in the first article listed in my original post.
  25. gibvel
    I just did the Marshall mod on mine and the whole thing cost $1.00 less, shipped, than 1 OEM CB antenna cost.... About $115. If you could live without folding down the antenna you could loose the folding adapter and the antenna would be about 4 or so inches shorter as well. It would also cost a little less.
×
×
  • Create New...