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gibvel

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Everything posted by gibvel

  1. gibvel
    I was going to say the same thing...........2 black stripes on the plug, not one.
  2. gibvel
    Wasn't a recall it was a Technical Service Bulletin. Probably so they didn't have to fix more than they had to. Honestly, if the trunk isn't cracked, the parts themselves are less than $20 to $25 if you get them from on-line sources. Okay, just looked and turns out the rubber plate is $.075,the metal plate is $1.27 and $1.24 (two differnt parts and numbers), and if you want to get new screws they are $.075. So not an expensive fix but only if the trunk isn't already cracked.
  3. gibvel
    If you suspect a dirty carburetor wait until your tank is about 1/4 full (3/4 empty if you're a pessimist ) pour the whole can in and run the engine to make sure that the carbs are full of the stuff. Shut it off and let it sit over night. Next day take her and fill her up and ride. If you don't suspect anything wrong with the carbs do what flb_78 said.
  4. gibvel
    Dielectric on the connector under the passenger seat? Have you changed/altered the antenna? Wonder if it could be an SWR problem.
  5. gibvel
    Heck Squeeze, I think you do a great job with your translation. Some people I know, who have lived in America all their lives, don't put their thoughts down, in print, as well as you do. You have lots of technical info to share. Keep up the good work!!
  6. gibvel
    A lot of people here leave the front forks at 0, some keep them at about 5 psi. As far as the rear shock goes, I think 30 is "Normal" for 1 up and then they adjust for 2 up. However, the way the bike rides and handles is a personal preference thing and you should just play around and see what you like best.
  7. gibvel
    Frog Man, The fuse for that is behind the left (as you sit on the bike) side panel. You might check the connections to your tail lights and or hitch connector as I had the same thing happen because the hitch connector on mine shorted out and I lost the same things when I hit the brakes one day coming home from work. In case you didn't know. On the side panels remove the rear screw and pull the panel out. The front 2 screws are fakes.
  8. gibvel
    Hmmm, that's pretty cool. So, they mold another ignition switch cover with holes for the tach and temp gauge, huh? Very nice!! Great use of, other wise, wasted space.
  9. gibvel
    If you think about this I don't think the problem is with the bag rails but the position of the hole in the mounting point on the saddlebag mounting frame. Hence the need to drill a new hole in that part.
  10. gibvel
    That would be cool........Much appreciated, Thanks!!
  11. gibvel
    Any time. I ordered the parts and did this and it works well. I'm thinking of using a little RTV on all the bottom and side parts (Rubber grommets, brass sleeves, washers) and "glue" them all together so they are a little easier to keep track of and or put back together.
  12. gibvel
    rsstar, Is it possible for you to post a photo of the gauge pod?
  13. gibvel
    both the brake switch and the clutch switch will deactivate the cruise. So it may be that the clutch switch is the culprit.
  14. gibvel
    Okay, just re-read your previous post. My fault, I misinterpreted it. I thought you said that if the actual speed was slower than what the speedo said they could be fined.
  15. gibvel
    Before you go and spend all that time reworking the quick release take a look at this post: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2595&highlight=Saddlebag
  16. gibvel
    Did you mean that the Manufacturer CAN or CAN'T be fined?
  17. gibvel
    That was my concern about the pump................I have other concerns with Monsta's post, however!!
  18. gibvel
    Okay, lets go with the arch then. The bottom of the foot behind the ball of the foot and the heel.
  19. gibvel
    Not a problem with the name. I know that I've got the narrower Avon Venom on the front of mine. Sidewall says 42 on it and that what I keep mine at. It went down to about 38 or 39 once and I got the same thing on the highway. Pumped it back up to sidewall pressure and haven't the "No hand" shaking went away.
  20. gibvel
    Don't know how stripped out the screws in the master cylinder covers are but you may have some luck if you can locate a metric screwdriver set. The problem with these screws is that they are metric and the non-metric screwdrivers have too long a tip on them. When you try using a non-metric screwdriver it bottoms out too soon so you don't get a good purchase on the screw and it ends up rounding out the head. A metric philips head has a shorter tip that doesn't bottom out in the head and lets you get full purchase on the head.
  21. gibvel
    Pressure in the front tire?
  22. gibvel
    Really no back involved. Should all be leg and put the instep of your foot on the center stand peg. Believe it or not, that makes a world of difference.
  23. gibvel
    Good point. I guess I just assume that everyone knows to check the oil with the bike vertical and level.
  24. gibvel
    Don't feel stupid!! Glad you got things worked out!
  25. gibvel
    Well, right in front of the shock area is where all the drain hoses exit. Is it possible that the one that drains excess oil got moved up or truncated so that it's dripping on the exhaust. How full is the oil. Check the sight glass and make sure it's not over full. These bikes like the level halfway up the sight glass, between the two marks. If it's over full it blows oil out of the crankcase and into the breather box. You'll see a lot of oil accumulation on the left side rear cylinder and on the left rear carb area if it's too full.
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