gibvel

I believe some of the guys have used these successfully and like them better than the Yamaha ones. http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/gma_product.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524441842367&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374309149262&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374309149262&bmUID=1178793725238&bmLocale=en_US

I'm thinkin' That's BAAAAALUUUUUUE.

Okay Lonna, What, exactly, is an Earthquake cheesecake? If it sounds good I may just have to drive the, nearly, 1,300 miles to see.

Yeah, I realize that. I have the flat cable as well. How long have you had your Ed Sets? Warranty period is 2 years. If you're still within that time frame you can go to Ed's site and get the other cable for the cost of shipping.

Okay, folks that are worried about the upper connector and cable. Just recently Ed has upgraded this cable. There is a video on his site of him torturing the new 2G cable: http://edsets.com/video/2GCableTest.wmv He commented that he never really liked the durability of the old cable. Now for the customer service part of the deal. He replaced both of my headset cords with the 2G headset cords for the cost of shipping. Anyone who's headsets were still in warranty got this same deal. Ed is also very responsive if you have any problems. I just got them as an "in case" as I always situate my helmet so it's not resting on the upper connector whenever possible. Check out the video link I posted.

Same company different products. Carb tune is used to sync the carbs, color tune lets you look into the combustion chamber and adjust the pilot jet screw to the the right color which indicates the correct air fuel mixture.

Hmmmm maybe, maybe not!! More like

Ooooo Schmoe's a good one too. I may want to be promoted/demoted to Schmoe... hmmmm let's see... Schumck, Schmoe, Schumck, Schmoe, Schumck, Schmoe this may take some thought.

Good photos of the screws about half way down the page here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=258

Schmuck... such a cute word... Schmuck, Schmuck, Schmuck, Schmuck, Schmuck, Schmuck, Schmuck, Schmuck, Schmuck, Schmuck, Schmuck, Schmuck, Schmuck, Schmuck, Schmuck, I'll take Schmuck, I'm used to being that!!

Wow, that was a ways off. You used the 2 philips heads to sync 1 and 2 to each other and 3 and 4 to each other, correct? Did you use the flat head screw, just up and behind the choke lever, to sync 1 and 2 to 3 and 4? That's just what it looks like to me.

In my estimation you're wearing out the middle of the tire and not the sides because: "I am running 40psi. That is 5lbs higher then the max, but it handles better. Lowell ran his at 35psi at first, but he now is also running 40psi and likes it better." You're running 5lbs higher than the max on a tire that was made to carry much more weight than you're putting on it. Let me think here. You're bulging the tire out in the center giving it more of a rounded profile (Hmmm kinda like a motorcycle tire, no wonder it handles better) and not even touching the outside unless you lean.

Don't know why it's just the left rear but it is. My 89 was the same way with too much oil. I suspect that, if you take off the left rear fins, you'll see the same kind of deposit on the inside of the left rear cylinder block as well. My 99 has the same thing because of over filling by the PO. On a side note, I always had the dealer change the oil on my 89. Could have done it myself but the timing was right for the dealer to do it when I had some other things done on the bike. They would always over fill the oil and I could tell, on the ride home on the highway, that the oil was overfull. The bike has a strange feel, an "unusual" vibration that I felt. I'd get home, take oil out to the proper level and never felt that vibration at highway speeds when the oil was just right.

Tartan, I understand, and stated, that these letters will probably not make any difference or change anyones mind. This information is for information purpose only and may help some people, who are on the fence, make up their minds. It's amazing, to me, how some will follow a crowd of those who do something and haven't had any ill effects because they've done it and it "works" and not pay attention to those who actually design, test and market something for a living. I'm sorry, I've watched the videos of the car tires on the motorcycles and I totally disagree with this assumption. I don't see any flex. I'll reiterate this... car tires were meant for vehicles of substantially more weight than our motorcycles. So if flex comes into play it will not be to the extent of the flex that the tire was designed for because there is not nearly as much weight on the tire. Secondly, contact patch is a result of how much rubber is actually in contact with the road. On a motorcycle tire there is less tread, more flat smooth tire in contact with the road. All the treads and siping on CT reduce the amount of rubber that comes in contact with the road. My comparison is NASCAR, formula 1 etc. race tires. Total rubber, no tread, no siping just pure flat rubber so they can get as much contact to the road as possible. MC tires are closer to those tires than your average car tire. That's just the way I see things, and the way my logic sees thing. Not trying to say your wrong, not trying to change your mind, that's just how I see it. I will continue to post the responses from those companies that choose to respond to my requests. Again I was looking for and asked for good hard facts as to design and other aspects of tire design and manufacture that would give people cold hard facts to look at as opposed to the "bikers have been doing it for years", "these guys do it all the time and haven't had any problems" type of argument.

You guys are soooooo mean!!

Okay, just to let you know, I know I probably won't change any one's mind, pro or con with this but here's what I did. Everyone here is spouting this and that about what they learned on other forums about car tires on motorcycles. True these people have done it and are satisfied and haven't had any problems that we know of. The one person on here who has some expertise in this field has been poo pooed and "lost credibility". So, why not go to the horses mouth. The people who design and build these things. I wrote to BF Goodrich, Dunlop, Michelin and Bridgestone and asked their opinions on the subject. 3 or the 4 manufacture both car and motorcycle tires, one does not. I would have written to Avon as well but there was no contact information or form on their site. The first to weigh in was Dunlop and here's what the gentleman that wrote back had to say: Mark, Thank you for taking the time to contact us with your motorcycle tire questions. It is considered a bad practice to mount/use a passenger car tire on a motorcycle. The geometry of a passenger car radial (PCR) rim is different from that of a motorcycle (M/C) rim. Mounting a PCR tire on a M/C wheel would increase the chances of bead dislodgement. Typically, a PCR tire would use three or four compounds while a M/C tire would contain seven or eight. The M/C tire requires these specialized compounds for its unique application. Most certainly, the rider would sacrifice wet weather performance. The biggest risk would be performance at camber. The relatively flat PCR profile would exhibit poor handling compared to a M/C tire. The M/C tire profile is specifically designed to provide a large foot print at all camber angles. Again, the reduced foot print of a PCR tire at camber will reduce the size of the contact patch and result in reduced grip. This reduced footprint would be quite dangerous, especially in wet conditions. There are also a multitude of other performance criteria that have never been evaluated as it is just too dangerous to conduct a actual vehicle test. Chances are there would see a substantial degradation in high speed stability both in straight line and camber with a PCR tire. As for the car tire to motorcycle tire comparison, we must first make sure that we are comparing apples to apples. When you think of it, the vast majority of motorcycles are high performance vehicles compared to most cars. Consider that you rarely see a motorcycle with less than ''H'' speed-rated tires. By comparison, the vast majority of cars ride on non-speed-rated tires or very low speed rated tires. Power-to-weight ratio and speed are big factors in respect to tire wear. Unfortunately, when many people compare mileage, they do so with a family sedan and a much higher performance motorcycle. Another significant factor in this comparison is the size of the tire's contact footprint. In the case of a car, the footprint is much larger and there are four, not two tires contacting the pavement. You must keep in mind that virtually the entire width of the relatively flat tread of a car is in contact with the road all of the time. A car remains upright, even when cornering. This results in a much smaller contact footprint for a motorcycle tire. High power-to-weight ratio, speed, size of footprint and other aspects explain why motorcycle tires tend wear out quicker than car tires. If you were to compare a motorcycle tire against a high-performance car tire, for a Porsche as an example, this would allow for a much closer comparison. The power-to-weight ratio and speeds are closer even while allowing for the much larger contact patch times four (x 4). Tires fitted to these types of vehicles generally provide 10,000 - 20,000 miles of service before wear out, much like a motorcycle tire. Throw in the fact that motorcycle tires can not be rotated and you'll soon see that motorcycle tires do a yeoman's job of delivering both performance, mileage and safety. To obtain the best mileage from motorcycle tires, please observe the following guidelines: obey the speed limit; avoid quick acceleration and hard braking; maintain recommended tire pressures; and do not overload your bike or tow a trailer. Paul There you have it for what it's worth. I'll submit any other emails I get from the other companies I inquired of.

I actually have the stock pipes from the bike and the saddle bags would be even easier than that because I've got the thumbscrew set-up. Would I be able to leave the K&Ns on to do that? I don't think that any of the changes I made or the re-adjust actually did anything to it as the exhaust sounds exactly the same now as it did when I rode it home on the 1st day. Some day, when I get time, I may swap the pipes back and take a little ride. I wish I were close enough to a maintenance day to get there. I still have to check the "Y" for a leak though. Actually haven't found my way around the AIS hoses to check that either but I need to make dead sure there are no vacuum leaks in those as well.

Bought it in Texas and drove it back. Aftermarket pipes that were on it when I got it. Was told they were BUBs but they have no markings like BUBs. Someone, on this site, did have photos of pipes that looked exactly like mine and he called them BUBs too. I put in K&N filters but, after that, I was going to have the carbs rejetted but the shop said they only needed to be adjusted. They adjusted them for slightly rich, since I am planning on going down in altitude (if I can ever get away from this bloody job ). I think they said they set them for 13 and normal was something like 10 or so on the EGA. The carbs had been rebuilt before I got it. Just changed the plugs not more than 100 miles ago, did a resync this last weekend. Sounds, pretty much the same now as it did when I first got it, even changing out the filters and the re-adjust. My son-in-law, however, does think it sounds pretty cool though so I may just have to leave it this way... :rotf: But, to me, it would make the bike lots better if I could get rid of it. When I had my 89 I was consciously listening when I'd decel and I swear that I could hear sounds that sounded similar on that one but the pipes were so much quieter that I couldn't be sure.

Buzz off Dawg!!

Very nice explanation Goose. Understand that a whale of a lot better now. So my next question is this: The gurgle on decel that I'm getting doesn't sound like it fits into the "afterfire" category given this explanation. Is that a correct assumption or is it still a type of afterfire.

Hardy, har, har!! Guess I gotta watch what I type around you guys. Should have learned that by now.

I don't get a backfire eg. no loud popping. I do, however get a "gurgling" or a "burbling" (don't know if that's all that much help ) on deceleration that I'd like to get rid of. I plugged the AIS once and found that didn't help or, if it did, it wasn't much change.

Not silver, charcoal and the pin stripes on the fender and tank give it away as an 08. Besides I've been drooling http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v232/gibvel/Smilies/drool.gif over that color since they came out.

No, because the stuff that I read about it says that some systems inject fresh air into the catalytic converter, as well, to further burn the HC. Like I said I may be off but that's what I read on the subject.