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gibvel

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Everything posted by gibvel

  1. It will cut out totally if it goes 5 mph below or above the set point. This WILL require you to hit the resume button or hit the set button again. If it drops only 1 or 2 mph it should accelerate to get back up to your set point.
  2. How steep a hill? If you lose or gain 5 mph, the cruise will cut out. I find that if I twist the throttle just a hair when at the bottom of the hill the cruise will usually start accelerating better/quicker and stay engaged. The hill doesn't have to be super steep either.
  3. Well, there must be some reason they make bakeware, hot pot gloves etc. out of silicon. Get the high temp stuff, though, not just the stuff from the hardware store for the tub.
  4. 4xy-16150-09-00
  5. Also, which way do you turn your front wheel, or do you leave it straight? All this can affect how much weight is on the stand.
  6. Make sure the valve stem is tightened. Had a dealer leave mine loose.
  7. Do you leave it in gear? Do you have a cover on it ( could act to catch the wind) I use a cover and, with some of the winds we have around here, I'm always afraid mine will blow over. Hasn't yet though. A couple of guys with 1st gens. have reported that theirs blew over.
  8. Well that explains it... Why do you think it dropped a cell?
  9. Third page of this post has some dosing info.: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=39828&highlight=Motorkote&page=3 According to Motorkote they recomend 2oz per quart of oil. Cougar over dosed his the first time with 12oz. Others have gone with 8 and 10oz per quart with an oil change. They say you don't have to do it every oil change rather every 3rd oil change.
  10. For Yamaha to pick up the tab yes. To get an I-Basket from a parts place no. However the I-Basket is a special number, you can't just use the number off of a parts supplier fiche. It was posted on this site once but I can't remember where. I'll look to see if I can find the thread and post it. Found it in this thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46085&highlight=basket The number for the I-Basket is: 4XY-16150-09-00
  11. Can't say that I like the idea of threading straight into the post. I like that idea of the screw and nut because you, almost, can't over tighten them. (I said almost). Always scared I'm going to strip out the battery post. However, I'd reserve judgement until I actually see the set up.
  12. Me likey!!
  13. Yeah, I know what you mean. It's about like the old battery was when it was giving up the ghost. The real pisser is it's less than 2 years old. I think you're right though and I may have to spring for a Deka. Can you tell me how the heavy duty posts differ from other battery posts?
  14. My intent, when I last had the battery out, was to check the drain on the battery with the key off. I put the meter (Fluke 77) in series with the meter set to measure current. The post by N3FOL asked: "I am curious as to where did you measure 13.8V with the bike running. So in this case, if 13.8V is measured, it looks to be normal. To which I replied "Measured at the battery at high idle."He thenasked: "What is the 'Key Off' draw on the bike? One would normally see .33mA or a tad more." To which I replied ".3mA is what I saw when I tested it." I did the Voltage reading with the meter set on DC volts and the red lead on the positive side of the battery and the black lead on the negative. I did the current reading with the positive side of the battery disconnected and one lead of the meter on the positive battery terminal and the other on the positive lead of the bike. Now that I look at it though, I can see how it might be a bit confusing.
  15. Measured at the battery at high idle. .3mA is what I saw when I tested it. Even after keeping it on the trickle charger for months when I took the charger off it still cranked the bike more slowly then I was used to with the previous battery. So I'm not sure if the theory of the bike not charging the battery is valid. May be but I'm not sure about that.
  16. Not a problem. Wonder if that's what I did, Hit the starter button before it finished it's "self test".
  17. Okay, how long does the loss of the speedo needle, numbers, fuel gauge and trip meter disappearing last? The bike actually started the other day and those things were gone for about the 30 seconds to a min. that I had it running. I've seen the trip meter reset and had the meter go back to overall mileage but I've never had it totally disappear when the bike is finally started. Thanks
  18. Bubber, What color did you get and did you use the bracket they sell to mount it? I would imagine that getting the Red/Blue combo might get you in trouble with law enforcement.
  19. Actually, can't say that I've addressed the battery issue. When fresh off the charger the bike cranks over like I'm used to. If it sits for a week or 2 then it cranks more slowly. Think that may point more to the battery than anything else. But I'm going to check all the other stuff anyway so I don't waste my money on a battery if it's something else. I think the issue with the lack of dash graphics was more an issue of the fuses not making good contact. Kind of a diversion. Okay, where, exactly is the starter motor and/or the electrical connections to it. EDIT: Found the starter motor in the service manual. I'm assuming there is only a positive lead and the negative is supplied by the bolts that go through the housing and into the engine?
  20. A bit of corrosion on the battery positive connector but most of it was clean. Cleaned the positive terminal up anyway. Checked the fuses. Pulled them all ohmed them and they were all good. Quite a bit of road grime in there though. Put the fuses back in and turned the key. I do have all the dash stuff now. Still more sluggish, turning over, than I'm used to but started. At a nice choked idle the charging system was right at 13.98 volts. Ground connector at the engine was tight.
  21. Thanks, I'll check those things. I doubt it's the rectifier because I'm getting about 13.8V with the bike running. At least when I put the battery back in last fall after having Interstate check it. I was going to check the connectors on the Rectifier a couple weeks ago when I read the other "battery issue" post. Unfortunately other things came up and I totally forgot that. Thanks for the reminder. I'm going to check all the connections I can find.
  22. Would this be the one Bubber?: http://www.strobesnmore.com/whelen-slimlighter-ultra-led.html
  23. Yeah, after seeing some of the comments about them on here I am starting to wonder myself. I'm definitely going to take it out and take it into the Interstate battery place here in town and have them check it in it's present condition. If I can get some of my money back on it, so be it. If not I'll give them the battery back and a piece of my mind as well (although I have little of the latter to spare ). Thanks Brad!
  24. Somehow I knew, when I saw who posted, I'd get a link to the Deka battery classified. I was looking at that the other day though so we'll see. Yeah, I thought about the ground wire. Right now I've got the horn bracket installed with that connection and I'm wondering if that's vibrating things loose. I'm going to check that and all the connections. When on just off of the trickle charger it starts things pretty well lately so I'm not convinced it would be the starter motor. Thanks for the help Mark
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