gibvel

In Denver I've had pretty good luck with Coyote Motorsports. If by "area" you mean farther north then Fort Collins Motorsports is where I have had work done when I don't do it myself.

Very interesting ChrisFrench. What setting do you use to make it work with our engines? Wish I could find somewhere to get it from the US.

Do you know the part numbers of the ones for the RSV. Reason I ask is because the fronts are straight and the rears are angled at an odd angle. When I looked on the NGK spec. sheet the straight ones looked like they would work but the measurements of the ones between straight and 90° wouldn't have worked. I'm assuming you didn't get any for the RSV because you have a 1st gen. is that correct?

It's been a while since I took mine apart. If I remember correctly you unscrew the screw inside the cap. Then you'll have a ceramic resistor with silver ends, a brass disc and a spring (not necessarily in that order, but I think that might be the order) One thing you don't want to do is clean the resistor with anything abrasive. This will totally screw up the resistor and will render it useless. I know I was talking with V7Goose one time about replacement caps from NGK and we really couldn't find any that had the same shape as the rear caps had. I just looked at the cost of the Yamaha version of those caps and they run about $26.00 on part shark. Would me nice to find some NKG cause they run around $2.00 or so. They don't have any 10 ohms that I could find. Hope this was helpful and didn't digress too much. Edit: I found this on line. It gives a cut away of a plug cap. While this is not the one we have it may help http://www.oldjapanesebikes.com/mraxl_GT_Resource/manuals/etc/index.php Just click on the NGK cap decode link. Okay, I found a PDF that shows more closely to what we have. It appears that the order is plug screw, resistor (our's is shorter than the ones shown in this plug BTW), brass disc, then the spring. So the spring goes first then, the brass disc, then the resistor and finally the screw connector. BTW, I think 2 of my brass discs were broken so I made new ones by filing the head of a small brass screw. x_plug_cap_conversion.pdf

When I had partially clogged pilots, on a couple cylinders, I put a double dose of BG 44K in the tank and ran it around at an idle or just off idle around the neighborhood. Then I let it sit overnight. I knew they were partially clogged because when I went to the dealer to have them set they could get 2 of the cylinders to read correct (3.0) and the others would only adjust to about 1.5. Also, when I did a cold start the bike wouldn't start without choke and when the choke was off it would surge. The speed would increase and decrease and increase and decrease. After I did the treatment it started without choke and the surging was totally gone. This was something that V7Goose told me to do and it worked. Now, depending on how clogged they are, this may or may not help. If they are totally plugged you'll probably have to tear the carbs down and clean them. If there is some fuel draw the 44K should do the trick. Hope this helps.

Okay, I'll break my own rule... Has it got a cassette deck?

How are the hoses and caps on the carbs? Do you have the stock exhaust?

Every one, that I've seen reported on this site, has been an 880 Marathon. Some not even on the larger Venture.

In my experience, 60 to 65 is where I like to shift into 5th. It definitely lugs in 5th when you get below 60. However, if I want to get up and move, even at 65, I'll drop it down to 4th and hammer it. You are a long way from the rev limiter in 4th even going 65.

Yeah, this has been happening for quite a while, although I must say that's the largest chunking I have seen!! . You'd think after all these years, even if they didn't want to claim responsibility for it, they would at least have done some looking into this and tried to fix the issue. Apparently not. I guess the question is... do you want to deal with a company who doesn't care as much as Metzler seems not to care.

Just got off the phone with Brian Crawford from Purolator. Here's the scoop. The plate was changed because of problems with the owners of certain cars not installing or not being able to install the filter correctly. The thread plate was changed to solve the problem. It was only changed on the 14610 and 14612 models of the purolator line. The PL14459 was NOT changed so it should still be a valid filter to use. He also mentioned that if you go with a Bosch distance you shouldn't have the same problem. He also said that the thread plate of the Purolator "BOSS" filter, PLB14610 and PLB14612, was not changed either (although I would still check this before purchase). As far as the engineering changes on the "New" Pure-one filters. He said that the internal media has been changed to keep up with the extended mileage between oil changes. The capacity will be greater. He speculated, and speculated only, that the newer shorter version of the pure-one has the capacity of what the older longer version had. That's what I got. Hope it helps someone. And he didn't chastise me for running a car filter on a motorcycle!!

Wish I'd read the 2 purolator filter posts before this weekend. Ran into the same exact "convex, concave" problem and ended up going with the more expensive M1-110. Thanks for the new number Du-Rron. Although wondering if staying with Purolator is a smart move. I think that the Pure one is a good filter though sooo... On another note it looks like they've changed the design of the outside of all their filters, however. The yellow Pure-one is history being replaced by a blue painted one. I don't know if they've made other, interior, changes. They now have 3 levels. The regular, pure-one and the "boss". It would be interesting to see how they compare to the older filters and if we're going to need to look around for a replacement filter. I'm also wondering if Du-Rron happened to get a "good" PL14459 filter with a concave thread area that was made before they changed the design of that one to convex. In other words, if you go with that filter check first as to how the thread area is made before you buy!!

If God only hears born again Christians how do "The worst sinners and non-born again" become "born again"? This makes no sense. God hears everyone! God is waiting to hear from everyone. God Loves everyone, not just a select few. The guy is a religious bigot and a fool!

You do realize that Yamaha makes musical instruments also, don't you? So, technically, they really do have a brass band.

I'm for a GPS!

I was just posting what V7Goose found out when he was cleaning caps. If I remember correctly there's the screw, then the resistor, then a spring, then a flat brass disc. This is the internals of the caps on the RSV. I'm not sure if it's the same on yours. When I took mine apart several of the brass discs fell apart and were useless so I made some. Your best bet may be to PM V7Goose and let him know what you've found and see if he has any insight on it.

Don't know if the caps are the same as for the RSVs but, there's a little resistor inside the cap. If you cleaned the ends of that with anything abrasive you just made it useless.

Hey Phoneman. This just happened to be the weekend for Thunder in the Rockies. I don't know if that hindered things up there or not. Just wanted to let you know that some of the congestion may have been due to that.

Question: Do you use ride-on? Reason I ask is because I had a similar situation a year or 2 ago. I was able to ride about 10 miles at 75 before my tire got squirrely and there was a pretty big gash (1/2" by 1/2" V) in the thing. I will never have another tire without ride-on.

So I'm wondering if this is a problem isolated to the 74Vs then. Anyone have the same problem on an 80H?

I'd be curious to know if the Venoms that crack like that are the 74V or the 80H (150/90B15 - ) Variety. I use the 80H because V7Goose said they wear longer and have a higher load rating. Looked at mine the other day and don't have any signs of this type of cracking.

Thanks!

Larry, What model "P" clamp did you use and did you have to do any other mods or add-ons to get the tach to sit the way it is?

I have to agree with that!!

Well, went to release it from the tow yard to the insurance company yesterday. Doesn't look as bad as I thought it might. Looks like everything from the steering head up is toast but the engine didn't get a scratch or the side panels. I'd buy it back if I wanted to fix it up but I really have no desire, or garage room to mess with it or hunt down parts that don't cost an arm and a leg.