gibvel

Just had the same thing happen and burnt up a battery. Changed the VR and everything is back to normal. If you ride at night much another sign is that you'll probably see your headlight change from dim to bright and or visa versa occasionally (without flipping the switch I mean.).

Seriously, who named this thing?

Nawwww. Sounds like it's just someone jonesing to take the first long road trip in a new vehicle. Get a new vehicle and you can't wait to the first this or the first that in it!! Check out how it all works and performs etc.

Yeah, for another $300 or so. https://www.shopyamaha.com/product/details/touring-billet-toe-shift-lever?b=Transcontinental+Touring+Accessories&d=50 https://www.shopyamaha.com/product/details/touring-billet-heel-shift-lever?b=Transcontinental+Touring+Accessories&d=50&dealernumber=

Yeah, I've got my key cut that way, give it a try. Also, if I remember correctly, there has been a problem, in the past, with the screws on the bottom of the gas cap coming loose and causing problems opening the gas cap. If you do get it out check those screws and you might want to take those screws out and put some loc-tite on them and then tighten them down.

Was looking around for information on the Stratoliner and popped into one forum where one guy seemed to have a vendetta against the V4. Called it anemic and was wanting for Yamaha to do just what they did with the new Venture. Do you consider the V4 anemic? Personally I just don't think this idiot knew how to drive the V4.

Right there with you on the scoops being too large. Wonder if the design was for function or aesthetics. I wonder if they needed the extra space to cool the oil or something. If it was just aesthetics then they missed the boat with me on the scoops. Don't really mind the trunk though. I think it's got a 50s or 60s era car rear end look to it. The price is the other rub... it's out of my price range new. Have to wait a few years for the used ones.

I know what you mean!!! The heat being the number 1 concern, of course this depends on the season. Second is handling the weight at a stop and slow speeds. Throw in what appears to be lackluster MPG and you've got some things to look at and test. Another is, being used to the absolute speed off the line and being able to drop a gear and quickly pass on the highway. I know a lot of guys, on here, are addicted to that quick speed (gotta say I like it occasionally too). But the more I look at it the more I go from being blah about the looks to really liking them!! But you know, if you dress a turd in sparkles and glitter it's still a turd.

May have to go give it a test ride. Supposed to be a demo in Loveland on the 28th and 29th of this month. At least I can see if the product meets the hype.

Gotta say there are a few design features I like. Like the front end except, I think, the scoops are too large (maybe design, maybe functionality I don't know) a bit too Goldwingie. Although it looks as thought they've put some storage in the left scoop area, which could be nice. The Pods in front of the floor boards are, In my opinion, kinda overly large (another nod at the Goldwing) wonder if these serve a function other than a place for the optional lights. All of this matters from the front view but, kinda goes away with the side view. I really like the lines of the tank, bags and the rear end. It reminds me of the older (70s, 80s and 90s) Japanese bikes that had that cute little upsweep on the rear fender. Not as obvious but still that same sweeping lines look that I always loved in the bikes back then. I don't like that you'll have to spend another $300 or so to get a heel-toe shift accessory. Dang if I haven't gotten to love the heel toe!! Don't like that the bugger weighs in about 100 lbs more than the 3rd gen. And, honestly, in the side photos of the bike being ridden, the rider really doesn't look all that comfortable (handle bars too far forward). Guess we'll have to wait on test rides to find out if that's true. There will be a "tall backrest option" (doesn't really look all that "tall" to me) that will be nice. I'm sure an aftermarket company will come out with something better. Looks like, if you want the CB, dual zone audio, GPS you HAVE to get the Transcontinental package. The way I read it, to get rear speakers you have to get the Transcontinental as well. So no speakers in the rear for the base model. Wonder about serviceability of this bike. How easily is the Tupperware® removed? How easy is the engine/bike to work on? (change plugs, tire changes). Will this be less costly to maintain or more costly because you'll have to let Yamaha service do it all? Unfortunately, by the time I could afford one, or for used ones to show up, I will probably be out of the market. Probably will test one out but don't know that I'll ever buy one. Who knows though, my old "you only live once" may rear it's ugly head or some rich relative may leave me a huge estate and keep me riding and buying longer. Just my from what I've read and observed.

Okay, back to topic, here is my 2 cents. After watching all the videos, the only engine mentioned and/or touted was a V-Twin (in video 2 "As far as the V-Twin goes, this takes you to a whole different level, in terms of power. You just crack the throttle and, instantly, you know you have something there."). And like someone mentioned earlier in the thread (about other features mentioned) they probably wouldn't bring them up if the didn't have them in the bike. My guess is that the V-Twin is going to be the power plant.

Thanks all. Ordered one from Partshark @ $75.99.

Well, after installing a new battery a couple months ago it seemed to start and run really well... until yesterday. When I went to start it yesterday morning it seemed to take a little longer to turn over. Then at work, yesterday, it was slow starting and reset the trip meter and defaulted back to showing the total mileage. This is something it did a couple weeks before the battery died last time. Keeping in mind that I had it on the charger all night the night before. I thought that maybe the bike wasn't charging like it should. Well, I went out and checked the charging and it's charging at 18.4 volts just idling. doesn't really change when you rev it. I'm guessing that this is too high and I've been burning up my battery. I'm guessing regulator. Also, could this be the reason my headlight keeps "dimming". I'm thinking that the regulator is putting out too much voltage and, every once in awhile, it will go back to putting out proper voltage and I think the headlight is dimming but it's really going back to normal. Any thoughts?

Yes, this is truly what happens. I have a couple photos of MCs, one with a car tire and one with a MC tire, that I downloaded off of Killboy, that illustrate this quite dramatically. If I think about it I'll upload them.

How fast were you going on the highway? At about 75 MPH, and above, these beasts really start sucking down the fuel.

Going to assume you checked the obvious. Didn't accidentally hit the on off switch, did you?

Ditto!!

Found it figured out how to get there and clean the terminals, (which probably didn't need it), figured out how to get it back in, put the battery back in... same thing. Think I'll go with a new battery now. Seems to me that, if your battery is putting out 12.8V then just turning the key in the ignition to start and the voltage drops to 10V then just goes lower (roughly 7V) when you crank it I'd say that's a good sign. Also, when you hold the starter button down and all it's doing is clicking and the clicking slows down quickly then I'd say the battery is bad. I'll probably go have it tested though but think it's the battery. UPDATE: Went over to NAPA... Dead battery!! 1, count em' 1 CCA.

I was looking for the other end of the positive cable. Where in the world does it connect. I can't figure out where it goes. A little update. I cleaned the posts and connectors at the battery and the ground at the engine. Before I did that the relay would only buzz if you held the button down for a bit. since I cleaned it the voltage doesn't drop as far when I turn the ignition on and the relay buzzes very strongly all the time. I just need to find where the positive cable connects. Does that require taking the battery and battery tray out. I really think that it's probably that connection. I hooked the battery back up to the Batteryminder (BTW it's a model 12248) and it's saying the battery is good and it charges it without a hitch. Don't know if that says anything for sure, just thought I'd mention that.

Guess that, pretty much nails it. The Battery was at 12.87, turn on the ignition, drops to 9.9 volts and then hit the starter switch and it went to 7.7 volts. Guess that means I'll be buying a new battery, huh? Thanks, guys!!

That would have to be African American paint... Crayola Crayons are next!!

Well, after sitting all day the voltage of the battery was 12.97 V. I think the battery is okay. The ground at the engine is tight and the connections to the battery are tight and look clean. They were a tad bit loose but tightening didn't help. I will remove and clean today. I did notice that the headlight is dim compared to usual. So, it seems, that power is being lost somewhere. I'm assuming maybe at the starter relay, which is where, I assume, the positive cable connects as it leaves the battery. As you can tell I don't really know the electrical system too well but suspect I will be learning it better on this one. Now that I look at the Partshark electrical diagram I see that the starter relay is indeed where it connects. How difficult is it to get to and what's the easiest way to get there. Thanks for your help and patience.

Well, for the last few days or so I've been trying to hook my BatteryMinder up to my battery. It kept blowing the fuse. Well, somewhere along the line I inadvertently installed a 3 amp fuse into the inline fuse holder. DUH!!! It's supposed to have a 15 amp fuse. Put a 15 amp fuse in and the charger acted normally... YEA!!! Went out to start it to go to work this morning and BUZZZZZZZZZ, BUZZZZZZZZZZ. Like it was a dead freaking battery. Keep in mind that I've had the same battery in it, hooked up the same way for about 3 years now. Kept the Battery minder on it for the past 2 winters. I haven't changed anything. It worked fine yesterday too and from work. If I didn't know better I would say that the battery minder discharged the stupid thing. all the lights on the battery minder were normal. No wrong polarity all the charging lights were working and the light that flashes on full charge was flashing this morning. I have no idea what the heck is going on. Anyone else have a similar experience?

Wow! You were ridiculously close to my place when you had your early dinner. Unfortunately most bike shops open about that late around here.

More than welcome to come up to Loveland and use my garage.