OutKast

Most of the time, it starts immediately. That would not explain the hard shutoff that happens only occasionaly and only in the first few blocks of driving.

I am posting a copy of LilBeaver email response to me to keep the thread current. "Well, I thought the new ignition module was conclusive but I am not so sure anymore. I was good for a few weeks (and several thousand miles, two and a half weeks ago I rode from my home in Texas to visit some family in Illinois (Chicago area) and then over to the Detroit area. Am currently in Michigan. I was symptom free until a few days ago when I went to start my bike and it just cranked, cranked and crank but no go until I turned the key off, pushed it back into the garage then tried one more time and BAM, it fired right up. I did shut it down and wire brush the battery terminals for good measure. Since then, I have had two or three of these long cranking issues some from cold start and one right after fueling after riding for ~150 miles or so. I noticed that my bike ran A LOT better with the new ignition module BUT I also noticed that one of the three wire harnesses that plug into the ignition module came off QUITE easily, which led me to believe that maybe it was not making good contact from the get go. I tightened up the female end of the harness and reassembled (with the new ignition, since I already had it and was trying to rule out the tip over sensor) as well as going through, inspecting, cleaning then reassembling every single electrical connection I could get my little paws on (which, to my knowledge was ALL of them). After my bike seemed to be running better (with the new ignition module) I did replace the spark plugs. Also, I did see what appeared to be lots of pitting and evidence of what looked like water damage on my old ignition module. I had some electrical woes a while back with my rectifier/regulator unit and suspect that jacked up my ignition a long time ago HOWEVER, since YOU are experiencing the same symptoms, then maybe it I have not actually found the source to the problem. That being said, after replacing the ignition unit and going through all of the connectors and such, I have NOT had the bike just 'cut out' on me but have had a few instances of the hard starting (which I believe may be related to condensation/contamination in the fuel or possibly a loose connection on the ignition box itself). My recommendations are the following (in no particular order): - Drain/inspect the fuel in each of the float bowls (especially right then the hard start happens - then let bowls fill with the 'fresh' fuel from the tank and see if it fires right up - Clean and inspect the grounds on the bike - Clean, inspect and tighten the regulator/rectifier connection (in front of the fuel filter) - Clean, inspect and tighten the 3 connectors that go into the main ignition module (in front of the battery box) - Clean and inspect connections to battery terminals (which in order to get to the ignition unit itself, one needs to remove the battery and battery box anyway so that is easy enough to do when the battery is out of the bike) I am still slightly suspicious of the tilt-sensor as if this were to malfunction it would EASILY explain both the hard start and intermittent (and seemingly random) cut-out symptoms. If it weren't such a pain to get to (aka if I could figure out how to get the dumb thing OFF and BACK ON) I would have removed, dissembled, inspected, cleaned, reassembled/replaced the dam thing a long time ago. For the 20 or 30 bucks from pinwall, I am still tempted to do just that. Problem still residing in the whole figuring out how to actually replace the dam thing. Sorry that this is really scattered, I wanted to get back to you as soon as I could and have had a really long day. Please feel free to follow up with any questions or findings that you have as I would sure like to get this problem figured out soon! I will be on the road again sometime between Monday and Wednesday and then home sometime between Wednesday and Friday (depending on when I leave, how I feel, etc etc) so if I am a little slow to respond, please be patient, I will get back to you"

Hey LilBeaver, any more symptoms? My bike is exactly the same. Inconsistent long cranking. I thought maybe one of the clutch or neutral safety switches, but those only interrupt the starter, not the ignition, and the neutral light is lit when it happens. I thought the kickstand would explain the cutoff on hard first gear acceleration or during the one-two shift as it will cut ignition, but that doesn't explain the long start. The other day turning the switch and back on it started right up, so checked into the switch. No burnt connector. The switch circuit interupts ALL power, except the radio powered thru the accessory terminal. So, was the module the cure?

The whine is in the clutch, not the gear box. Usually fixed or reduced by changing the clutch basket to a different version. If yours does not whine now, it never will. Trying searching "clutch basket".

The hole needs to be precise, without getting any shavings into the gears. There is a few on here who have done, but they had access to machining equipment.

In virginia, you can get the small tag for any trailer under 3000#, but you have to ask.

you can steal the foward bolt out of the sidecover under the driver seat. It is only there for looks, does not hold the sidecover on, fits the sshifter perfect. Use locktite. I never have put one back in the sidecover

Mine was the sidestand switch. It was not always coming all the way up. Cleaned and oiled the pivot and it quit.

My boy DaKota born on Oct 16, 2011. Sorry it took so long to post, but I know the rules about pictures. Check out the scales. Kitty did a great job on that day, all natural, no drugs or cuts ! Kitty was on her bike 10 days after delivery. Still looking for a good deal on a used hannigan 2+2!

There is a thread from pegscraper in the tech library with part numbers and pictures. I got the parts from SkyDoc_17 for cheaper than anywhere else. He packaged them with a clutch spring upgrade kit.

I have piggybacker XL (factory led lights) and a non-powered convertor. everything works fine. It was interesting that the trailer had LED turn/tail/stop lights, but the side markers had standard bulbs. I changed out the side markers for LEDs.

where is the ad for the bike? pics? price?

I have a white second gen, and need a first gen to go with it. How about sending it my way. Getting tired of Kitty blowing by me on her 87.

He IS. Just not on YOUR project.

I have installed many tankless for customers, gas and elec. But you MUST be able to power them. Simple physics, a tank uses low power for a long time. Tankless uses high power for a short time. For an electric tankless, it takes (3) circuits, each of which is double pole. So, you must have (6) spaces in your panelboard. You must also have the amps available. I have sold electric tankless for new construction, but have never been able to sell one into an older home. They almost all need a panel upgrade, which throws the price out of the roof. Gas tankless can be affordable in older homes, if they are not located too far away from the meter. In existing construction, they usually require a dedicated line to the meter because the existing line is not large enough.

I seem to not understand your second comment. MSF states to ride one second behind the bike you are STAGGERED with, and two seconds behind the bike DIRECTLY IN FRONT of you. This website seems to say the same thing, and this is accepted practice anywhere I have ever ridden. Riding farther apart than that in traffic opens the group up to more dangers than it resolves. Where in thier site does it say different? MSF does support "single file" in curvy sections of road, with two seconds between each bike. I totally agree with your first comment. I will not let an unknown rider ride in our group without some basic questioning of thier experience. If they have limited group experience, I put them on the "wing" and keep an eye on them. If thier lack of ability threatens the safety of the group or excessively slows them, break them off with an experienced rider one-on-one. So, i agree with your third comment. BUT thier site does also mention to ride at your own ability and pull off if you can't keep up. If your buddy chose to ride with a group above his ability, that is on him. He should have said "I AM a rookie" and went home.

oops

But you can only see the clock OR the trip meter OR the odo at one time. They are the same display. Must push the button on the fairing to scroll between them. Must hold BOTH buttons down for a few seconds to get the clock. Not easy to do when you are moving. Some have added a diplay about 3/4" high and 5" long that shows clock, temp and voltage. Think it is about $50. Maybe someone will post a link.

Hey, there is a guy here in town that has one of those. Everybody knows him. Strange thing is, it only goes walking speed. Can you say Cockoo?

Got her CLASS working, but the rear will not hold air. The CLASS pumps it up ok, but just a few miles down the road, the rear is floating like a worn out cadillac. Is there a simple fix, or does it need a new rear shock?

HBD

well, i could use a spare front wheel. Maybe you could throw that old junky midnight wheel my way to get it out of your garage? The black center would look better on my rat bike than the grey.

Dude, I am going to real open here. That is NOT what Joe suggested you do. He has tried to help you set it up properly, and you keep digging for shortcuts. How are you going to operate this thing? Press the handlebar PTT with your left hand while holding the mic to your mouth with your right hand? So I guess you are doing this with the cruise control on? A properly set-up hand held mic is already a safety compromise on a bike (probably why you cannot find one already made anymore). Your setup seems to be major safety liability. Please save yourself alot of grief and buy a quality headset. Or at least follow Joe's advice COMPLETELY. Okay, now you hate me. That's ok.

Hey. I live in Roanoke. He didn't stop to see me!

Yep. Just run it into the rev limiter a few times. Then start shifting just before it hits. Just hold it wide open in first till it falls flat when the ignition cuts out. Then second. Than third if you dare. I have not been able to hit in in fourth, even with the speedo pegged. It will not hurt the bike.