OutKast
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Everything posted by OutKast
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I think we all need to pray for this person. If he was a calm level headed fellow as some have said, this change of behavior could be the onset of dementia, etc. The first step is taking offense at nothing. The next would be paranioa. Then delusional. Accussing his lifetime friends of stealing from him. Lets pray he is not on this road. Don, your feelings are right. Pray for him and have a clear conscience.
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i used dawn dish soap and water 50/50. aired to 60, let air out and immediately back to 60. air out again, spray bottle of dawn and water onthe remaining spot and quickly aired up to 65. could see it moving slowly so i backed up. about a minute later it went. i wrapped a chain around rim and wheel and tied to the workbench just in case.
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Gear position indicator question
OutKast replied to Brenner's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
in reference to the second gen, it also pics up 5th to light the overdrive light. -
ha ha ha. in my mind i pictured a saltine cracker with a piece of paper inside, like a fortune cookie. ha ha
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how bout a pic of a christmas cracker?
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Can it be removed???
OutKast replied to LordZarkon's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
i believe the cruise control stuff is in there. an accessory fuse block is in the right one. not sure what else. -
Happy B-day
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Bump. Any update LilBeaver?
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Time to conclude my "lost on the road" story. Never got a crossover to the B6004 number. Removed bearings were NSK 60/22DU . I purchased the All Balls kit 41-3414. The bearings in that kit are KML 60/22-2RD. Maybe this will help some else crossover. But might as well get the kit as you will also probably need the "oil" seals. As for this thread about carrying extra bearings on trips, I am sure glad I ending up NOT trying this along the road. The OK bearing was no problem, a long blunt instrument and careful tapping from behind drove out both the bearing and seal intact, in about 5 minutes. The "bad" bearing had completely come apart, the inner race and balls came out with the axle. The outer race sits down and bottoms in a pocket. The long blunt instrument from behind will NOT contact the inner race. You CANNOT get behind the race to catch it with an "inside" bearing puller. The only place to catch it is the tapered groove the balls ride in. Prying from the front is futile. 3 hours later, by mis-applying a "pilot bearing puller", using a pair of channel locks to catch the legs of the puller on, and heavy beating on the puller from behind with the blunt tool, the outer race was out. sigh but all is well with that now. My suggestion, when in doubt change them. My bike has 67k miles
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Time to conclude. Never got a crossover to the B6004 number. Removed bearings were the NSK 60/22DU noted above. I purchased the All Balls kit 41-3414. The bearings in that kit are KML 60/22-2RD. Maybe this will help some else crossover. But might as well get the kit as you will also probably need the "oil" seals. As for another thread about carrying extra bearings on trips, I am sure glad I ending up NOT trying this along the road. The OK bearing was no problem, a long blunt instrument and careful tapping from behind drove out both the bearing and seal intact, in about 5 minutes. The "bad" bearing had completely come apart, the inner race and balls came out with the axle. The outer race sits down and bottoms in a pocket. The long blunt instrument from behind will NOT contact the inner race. You CANNOT get behind the race to catch it with an "inside" bearing puller. The only place to catch it is the tapered groove the balls ride in. Prying from the front is futile. 3 hours later, by mis-applying a "pilot bearing puller", using a pair of channel locks to catch the legs of the puller on, and heavy beating on the puller from behind with the blunt tool, the outer race was out. sigh but all is well with that now. My suggestion, when in doubt change them. My bike has 67k miles
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To update my situation, on sep 14 left with friends on a trip. Very first thing, it died when I put it into gear. Restarted, no more problems all the way to Daytona (over 800 miles), or for two days there, or all the way back to Florence SC where I lost front wheel bearing. Got that fixed. Left last fri for outer banks (250 miles) with no problems, two days there no problem, half way home no problem. But after both of the last two stops(damp and drizzly, but no actual rain), died while accelerating in first, and then majically restarted. Rode to work today, heavy drizzly fog with no problem. sigh my buddies 1500 wing with 60k miles never even hicuped.
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YES The number Muffinman gave me was B6004, which I understand to be different from the more common 6004. I couldn't tell you why!!
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And here I thought the "engine cutoff" was gonna kill me. But not one single symptom of that during the trip. Thanks everyone that called and tried to help. Muffinman got me the bearing number B6004, but guy at advance was unable to locate or crossreference. Kid at ORielly immmediately cross-referenced it to Timken 104 or National 104, but did not have one and by then was after 5 pm, so warehouse was closed. Took the new number back to Advance, and it came up then immediately, and even cross-referenced to several manufacturers using 6004 as part of thier part number. Go figure that one. But now was too late to get from thier warehouse also (maybe same one?). So Kitty was a trooper, getting truck and trailer to Florence about 8:30, we loaded and left. Shortly thereafter, the guy riding the 1980 CB900 custom was down in Asheboro. using an astronomical amount of fuel, a full tank was only going about 30 miles. So we stopped and picked him up too. Too fit on my little 5x10 trailer, we had to strip off his vetter, engine guards and saddle bags. But we got them both on there. Arrived at my house at 4:16 am. Had to leave for work at 5:30 am. Hope I don't fall asleep at my desk!!!! Thanks again all. I Will be adding a set of these bearings in my existing travel kit I carry with spare bearings for the trailer, etc. Maybe a few months working and we will be able to afford to travel to catch up with you guys. THANKS EVERYONE!
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Bad front wheel bearings 540-309-3601 if you can help. 04 second Gen 3pm Mon
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Well this relay "assembly" is full of diodes. My limited understanding is the diode operates as a "check valve". Sorry if anybody thought I was challenging Jeff - I appreciated his comment and I am concentrating on the assembly after his comment. Just wish I REALLY understood how the dang thing works with all the diodes. My point was the circuitry is not as simple as I first thought. Yes, the kickstand "down" feeds this "assembly" and kills the starter function. But if the kickstand drops with engine running, it kills the ignitor. But why is there a diode here? does it ground out the ignitor? Or does it kill a circuit to the "assembly" which then kills power to the ignitor. That is my confusion with multiple circuits between the ignitor and the "assembly". I dont understand what would happen if a diode was failing in the "assembly". We already have figured out the tilt switch has a resistor allowing a "tracer" signal which prevents simply bypassing it without instaling a resistor in the same range. I REALLY APPRECIATE EVERYONE'S COMMENTS. I AM REALLY FRUSTRATED WITH THIS, AND STRETCHED TO BUY THE NEW IGNITOR, TO NO AVAIL. I am hoping someone can explain why it might something, or maybe know how to test. I know sooner or later it is going to fail, and i have 2 trips planned this month. Please Lord, give us some insight!! thanks EVERYONE
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Jeff - did his not crank, or crank normally and not start? I think this is the "starter circuit cutoff relay" that keeps the starter from turning if there is an error (kickstand down and no nuetral light, kill switch activated, etc.) If this relay is active, a light on each side of the dash light up when the starter button is pushed, and starter will not turn. Mine cranks normally with no lights, just no start! But you could be right, 3 or 4 wires from the ignitor box end up here, one thru a contact on the ignition switch, one thru the sidestand switch and clutch handle switch, one activates the carb heater relay and passes thru the nuetral switch, and one to the fuel pump relay ( I assume the fuel pump only runs 3 seconds when you turn the key on, then needs a signal from ignition box that it is running). My electrical engineering is limited, but I do troubleshoot heating and cooling systems. But dang if I understand how you can wire to both sides of a relay with the same wire just because there is a diode in between the posts?
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Frank - mine has never stayed dead long enough to check spark. usually waiting a few minutes fixes it. But during a "no start" it smells strongly of wet fuel. When it shuts off while driving, it is a "hard" cutoff like hitting the kill switch, not a "sputtering" cutoff like running out of fuel.
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gonna try to dig into the circuit that passes thru the L/B-L/Y switch terminal. can anyone tell me how to test the diode in the kickstand switch?
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Update - With the new Dyna 3000, ran back and forth to week all last week no symptoms. But over the weekend and twice this week, I have had the "shutdown". All within 1/4 to 1 mile from startup. Never when sitting still, and no "hard" starts. Never hard enough to stop the bike. Just a hard cutoff like I hit the kill switch, and a restart before I have time to realise what happened and pull the clutch. Really, if it would die and stay dead just once would probably be a blessing, even though I would be late to work!
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I have removed the whiskers, the tank biib, all the emblems, the rotor covers, the fender ornamemts, and more from mine. Check pics in gallery.
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I installed a dyna-3000 on mine thursday nite. Rode to and from work Fri with no cut-outs or hard starts. I will keep you guys informed.
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Generosity was not in question, sorry if anyone thought I meant that. Just wanted to make sure it was not something like "I bought the bike, and it was in the trunk" I thought the Dyna only added onto the stock box. But looking over the install in the read-only tech section, it does entirely replace the stock unit. So it makes sense for a guy to have a good stock one laying around for that reason. Maybe $300 will fall out of the sky so I can get a Dyna! Let me know if you find anything else.
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LilBeaver - whats the chance you got two bad ignitors? The other guy gave it you, why did he have it? Do we know why the other one was not on its original bike? Did someone have it laying around because it "might" be ok? Tripping anything seems to trigger some kind of dash light - sidestand, kill switch, lean sensor, etc. But I have never had any kind of light during a failure. Well, maybe I can get enough together to get another ignitor. Mostley out of work though.
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Well I do have access to a healthy 1st gen, if I knew it was the same. My theory is the 61kohms is necessary to ensure the switch is in place so it does not activate the check engine light and lock out the ignition (crank but no start). Shorting across the ignitor side of harness connector ("tripping the switch") results in check engine light and no CRANK. Summary of what we know about switch: 0 ohms - crank but no fire (simulated by switch unplugged) 61 kOhms - normal operation 300 kOhms - Crank but no fire (simulated with resistor) Short - no crank (similated by shorting ignitor side of harness, solid black wire is continuos to ground) I have rerouted the harness connector in front of the tank mount and removed the right side neck cover so I can access and check the resistance when it occurs. I have not actually been able to put my hands on the switch itself. EDIT hhmm.... whenever we simulate a fail, we get check engine light. never get a light during a failure!!!!!
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LilBeaver's quote "Started inspection of tilt/angle 'emergency stop' switch - resistance measurement 61 kOhms(!!!!!) Service manual claims 0 resistance when operating normally and infinite (as well as check engine light triggered) when tripped. When switch UNPLUGGED, check engine light flashes, bike cranks but will NOT start. When switch bypassed via a 300ohm resistor, behaves as if not plugged in. When Plugged in, bike starts right up (I see this as being inconclusive as of right now)" Mine also measures 61 kOhms at the harness connector just outside the frame neck