OutKast

Thanks for Info. Being in South Texas now, I have the current broken louvers duct taped off. Was looking forward to blocking them off. If I confirm they will not work easily, they will be for sale.

I don't know about other states, but in VA when Kitty bought back her own wrecked bike from the insurance, the title was not marked as salvage. Since she just settled for the difference, the title never changed hands. Once the insurance takes possession, then the title gets marked as salvage. I THINK she can just settle for the difference and move on. But maybe not. I would like to know more about the chrome trim in the area where the engine louvers normally go. I got some chrome panels with a parts bike I was told would blank this area, but then found them to be too small. However, they look to just fit into the area that is remaining with the pieces you have installed. It seems we each have half of a whole.

I have heard lightning through the CB

I will be following. I have a set of VMAX brake lines and front splitter, and blue dots from an R6 to install. Careful, I have been told the stock Venture barrel bolts will not work with the Vmax lines. The first gen lines have a groove inside the fitting on the brake line. The Vmax and R6 do not, and use a "standard" necked down bolt. The ones from the VMAX will of course work.

I am pretty sure now that I have messed up. I believe we actually set it with the forks extended (it was a long day!). I now remember lowering the jack to "work it in" and it came all the way to the top when "compressed". I used over a pint, probably 18 ounces, in each leg, but have now found the stock volume is only 13-14 ounces and it should be a little less with the progressives. Oh well, to the store for the 17mm hex and two more pints of oil. Based on the oil that came out, could probably use a second change anyway.

Kind Sir, please define "fully compressed". We had the bike on center stand, springs out, and just lowered the jack so the weight of the bike was on it. Set it at 5.75" on the high side. Instructions said 5.5" from top was MAX. Then jacked the front up and dropped the springs in with 3/4" spacers. 12.5w was not available, so used 15w based on my 230 pounds of lard, hot Texas heat, and plans to remove Class and antidives in their entirety. It has a "fork brace" sourced from a parts bike. Rides and handles great now, but I get a "thunk" through the bars on a significant bump. Should I have weighted the front of the bike when measuring the fluid height? How do you tag people? @yamagrl @van avery @Squidley

I am looking for the fairing panels from a standard. I am removing radio/cb/class completely and want the standard covers to put back in.

The class fuse is in a separate inline holder all by itself (it was optional on early models) and is only powered with the key in Accessory. There are numerous threads on here showing changing out the fuse holder, and in the classifieds Skydoc has a kit if you are not comfortable making it up yourself. Each fuse has its own feed because some are hot Accessory only, some ON only, and some both, so you need an inline type fuse box, not a standard with one hot connection.

Please indicate 1st gen (pre-93) or second gen (96 or later). Major differences in the electrical system and internally inside the starter. The best thing is to go into your profile and set it so the year shows up under your name when you post. Plenty of help will show up after that.

Forget fixing the shifter pin segments. Replace it with the one piece unit from a second gen. Once the clutch basket is off, easy. I have done my first gen.

Good tech info on the banjo bolts. References pics, but no pics here! Interested in the seeing the plate to mount the splitter. I have a complete 01 Vmax front line set with the splitter. There is not a groove inside the line connectors. Looks like I need to track down the new style grooved banjo bolts.

I bought a used second Gen starter. It has MITSUBA SM13 cast into it. It has 4 brushes. It was about $60. Another member alerted me to it as it was listed under Tour Deluxe, not Venture. Shop not heated so it is not on yet.

Thanks for that, man. I just asked if anyone knew if they would fit, and all I got was preaching. I would love to have the stainless hoses, but it ain't in this rednecks budget. Using parts that are 14 years newer is a step in the right direction. If I had the mentality of some of these guys, I would never ride this bike. A billion things could fail on any bike this old. Or a brand new one, for that matter. And before any of you other guys jump me, I specifically asked if they WOULD FIT, not if I SHOULD USE THEM.

While couch-racing (kinda like bench racing but on the couch with a tablet) I came across a Vmax front brake line splitter with all the banjo bolts for 10 bucks. It still has all the lines connected also. Being from an 01, the lines are 14 years newer than mine. When they arrived they look in great shape. Being cold and deep snow between me and the shed, just wondering if anyone knows if the lines are long enough? BTW, will be swapping R6 calipers at the same time. Thanks

If it was on the wrong side, check your caliper and rotor. I put it in wrong the first time on my 04, and the caliper drug against the rotor, so much so I immediately knew there was a problem when I tried to spin the wheel.

I am expecting it to crank like the second Gen I sold!

Just to close this thread, the factory second Gen starters are MITSUBA.

thanks. confirms I got a factory starter.

I bought a second Gen starter supposedly off a 2007 TD with 20 some thou miles. It showed up today and casing says MITSUBA SM-13 12V. I opened it up and it is a four brush with minimal wear. Got it for $75. Pin wall used was $120, and new Mitsuba are about $160. Just wondering if anyone has a second Gen starter they can check the markings off of? Do they have the yammy part number, or are they all actually Mitsuba? Edit - search for "mitsuba sm-13" provided a mile long list of used bike starters, all with different mounting lugs. '

Appears to be 4 brush, as no screw on outside of case. Guess you really don't know without opening it, as the add does not say. Also being a Mitsuba, how can they sell it for half of the second gen? This has really got me thinking. No more slow crank?

Ok. It seems like I have three options. 1. Used Second Gen starter off Ebay will cost about $120 delivered. 2. The Rick's Motorsports Premium Starter is about $220, 1 year warranty 3. What looks like the way to go - Several different brand labels on what appears to actually be the same starter, a Mitsuba, from $160 to $170, all with a 1 year warranty. An extra $40 for new with warranty seems a no-brainer. Ricks appears to have a shinier case, but nothing stating what technically makes thier's better. Has anybody used this "mitsuba"????? Edit - more searching, Mitsuba is Japanese, not Chinese. Maybe they are the original supplier anyway?

Bluetooth has come a long way. The older models only connected to one other headset, and range was lucky to go 400 meters. The latest Senate 20s connects up to 8 riders simultaneously, and your GPS and cell. If you don't have a music player in your GPS or cell, it has a AM/FM built in, and a port to plug in an MP3. The range is over a mile now. If you get spilt farther than that, use the cell. So the only reason to keep the stock system is the CB. And I have not found any cost effective way to connect the two systems.

These work ONLY with J&M headsets, no other brands. Why I do not know, the idea of Bluetooth is to be universal.,

Looking at gutting the entire intercom system and using just a Sena 20s and a zumo. Kitty is concerned that if we ever do get back to riding with ventureriders, that the lack of the CB might be a big deal. So is the majority still CB oriented, or are most switching to Bluetooth?

Bumping this thread to see if anyone has tried it yet. Using progressives with no air to front. But that port will not set any higher than 21 psi. So it would have to be teed into rear line. If I still have to haul my tire compressor, I'll ditch the class and go manual fill. My concern is burning up the class. My manual compressor is digital and low loss connector and worked great on my second Gen rear shock.