OutKast
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I have a Reddy 115000 btu "jet" type heater. Instructions state you can run almost anything in it. Kerosene, diesel, heating oil, jet fuel, etc. I have run it on construction sites using "off-road" dyed diesel, and one winter used #2 dyed heating oil from an oil tank I removed during a change-out to gas fired boiler. When using these fuels, it stunk bad on start-up, but was fine once the cone started glowing red. In this extreme cold, my 1920 vintage home with no insulation that originally had a wood stove in each room, the heating system was no keeping up. When the house drooped below 55F, I decided to bring this unit in the house and run it 15/20 minutes every 4-6 hrs or so. So, I purchased 5 gal of clear K1 kerosene. While pumping, first I noticed is this cost $1.20 a gallon more than on-road diesel. Then I also noticed a fairly new sign that stated "NOT FOR HIGHWAY USE. MAY CONTAIN OVER 500 PPM SULPHER". Now, up to June 2007, dyed off-road diesel was limited to 3000 ppm sulpher (I think) and highway diesel was limited to 1500 ppm sulpher. My understanding of the main difference was K1 kerosene had much less sulpher, so it did not stink when burned. SO NOW THE QUESTION!! Since current highway diesel is now limited to 15 ppm (yes, 15. No zeros) and even after paying highway taxes is $1.20gal less than the K1 which may have MORE than 500ppm, why should I not run the diesel? Or is it something other than the sulpher that is the problem. I know both my 2003 duramax and 1995 6.5 turbo have less (almost none) odor on the new-spec highway diesel! NOTE - DO NOT TRY DIESEL IN YOUR GRAVITY TYPE (WICKED) KEROSENE HEATER. I am talking about my forced-draft jet heater, which is designed to be tolerant of these different fuels.
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Check it out. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/1627 Thanks
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Yep - sold it at 9am Eastern time today. Sorry. I do have some GM classics listed in "other vehicles" though.
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Clearview Windshields
OutKast replied to YamaDuck's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I have the short/wide showchrome shield and I have the gascap reflection bad, mostly late fall thru early spring. Lower sun angle i guess. Get bad reflection off the top off my white dash sometimes when oncoming cars hit it just right. Mine is not tinted. Try cleaning the shield with furniture polish (pledge) and see if the distortions clean off. Probably from being cleaned with an incorrect product in the first place, or someone used Rain-X, a big no-no on plastic shields.- 26 replies
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Check it out! Thanks!!!!
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Hey Mariner - I also felt my Diamond R pushed my a little far foward. I am 6'2" w/ 36" inseam. I took the backrest loose from the mount, and put it back together with the slide part from the backpad BEHIND the slide part from the lower bracket. Since both slides are 1/4" thick, this moves the pad back 1/2". The only thing that may not work for you is this limits how low the pad can be adjusted. But if you are tall enough to do this, it will probably be low enough for you. Try it, only takes 10 min, change it back if you don't like!
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So, does it seem the switch gets overloaded lighting circuit from passing lights/ other added lights, maybe trailer lights, etc.????? Has anyone had a switch failure who did not have any additional lighting?
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You can take the latches and springs apart, just the parts are no available separately. I removed the tape deck and door completely for now, considering building in a gage or switch panel. Or maybe cutting out below the tape deck and making a recess for my zumo. This would require relocation of cruise switch.
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Check every single bolt in the trunk and saddlebag mounting racks. Not the ones that hold the bags themselves, but the ones holding the racks to each other and the frame. I suggest taking off the bags and taking out each bolt one-by-one and using locktite. Also remove seats and do the same with the fender mounting bolts. Also the rear passenger grab rails. When I bought my used 04 w/ 14k miles, about half the rack bolts were loose, one of the grab bar bolts missing, and the rear fender bolts backed out about 1/2" inch till it hit the bottom of the seat. Remove the allen bolt holding your shifter lever, grease the shaft, and locktite that bolt too! Many have lost that bolt. Loctite also all the bolts inside the trunk hinges and especially the ones for the hold open mechanism. Pull up the rubber mats and you may find a screw or two already under there.
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Paint the wheels yellow!!!!!!!!!!!
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DO NOT USE RAIN-X ON PLASTIC SHIELDS. Rain-x is only good on glass. Will discolor the plastic. I did use the $8 a small can plexus, but now use the $2 a large can furniture polish. Smells the same (unless you get lemon scented, which doesn't hurt anything), looks the same, wipes the same, does the same job.
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The engine fires at top of Compression stroke. The waste fire is 180 degrees camshaft (360 crankshaft degrees) off at the top of the exhaust stroke. It is because motorcycle ignitions are crank mounted versus cam driven as most cars. On my old CM400 twin, I believe one cylinders fires hot and other cylinder fires waste at same time (only one coil)
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The "light bar" you describe is actually a light bar designed for trailers. Some people also sell these as motorcycle light bars, but is actually the trailer unit with some additional mounting hardware. My Carmate brand enclosed trailer uses a run-turn-brake 15" light bar over the rear door. I liked it and buoght another from the trailer dealer ($29 I think) and replaced the "brake only" light over the rear door over my Reading toolbox truck topper. If you use this on your bike, you would also need a Mod-u-lite or Hoppy trailer light convertor, because the bike uses separate turn and brake bulbs and this light bar the turn bulbs and brake bulbs are the same bulb. Do a search on this site to get model numbers. You would have to create your own mounting hardware. I intend to use this same unit whenever I get around to building a hitch-insert cooler rack.
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You CANNOT trickle charge through power (lighter) port. It is disconnected with the key off. You can charge through the port if you leave the key in accessory but the radio would then be live.
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Mine with stock harley road king mufflers does sound almost like my 406 small block powered 71 chevelle with dual 2-1/2" pipes. Just loud enough to know it is running at idle and cruise, just loud enough to sound powerful when it is pulling. Very nice tone when pulling. The tone is a little "tinny" when revved without a load, but great tone when pulling under load. Those stock harley mufflers sound nothing like a harley. The Road King rider who gave them to me has remarked numerous times that my bike sounds better than his.
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1956 Pontiac Chieftain
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Do a search on Buddy Rich Cable. For about $30, integrates your Zumo into stock system completely. Use any standard 5 pin headset. Blue-tooth cell phone integrates directly with the 550, controls the phone on its touchscreen.
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Actually, I am already having the trouble with the stock bluish white pearl. It is the top of the dash and the speaker grills reflecting into the Show Chrome windshield.
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Okay guys, I know chrome and wide whites look great on Midnights, Black cherry, blue/black and Charcoal, but mine is the 04 White with the "bluish white cocktail". I hate the blue tint. I am gonna go for the street rod look. Already removed the emblems, the "eyebrows", the tank bib, and the stock chrome horn. Tape deck has been removed. RK mufflers. Moved the headset connector from the tank up to the handlebars under the radio. A painter owes me, I just need to remove body parts and strip the clear and stripes. My ideas at the moment are bright white, or Chevy Victory Red with Black accents to match my truck, or maybe Matte Black with Bright Red wheels and Rotors! Regardless, the dash will be Matte Black. Does anyone else have trouble with the white reflecting onto the windshield? I have the front rotor covers on my list. Will these be as hard to break the bolts loose as when I had to replace the rear rotor? Those I had to heat with a torch to break the loctite. I am looking for ideas to remove any other unnecessary chrome. Will fenders from a RSTD interchange? I would trade my fenders with mascot and standard chrome tips for fenders without holes! Will the RSTD tank interchange. Don't they have a "bulge" instead of the tank bib? I like that and would trade mine with factory rubber bib! Maybe one of you RSTD guys want the flat top tank for a mural!!!! Alright then, unload your cool ideas on me!
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No different that hydronic radiant floor heat. The old original systems used copper, but the problem was the alkaline in the concrete floors eating up the copper. The new systems use a special "oxygen barrier" pex piping, but tight bends are difficult. I would think some small 1/4" copper tubing laid out on the pan and zip tied down would be a good place to start. Some cheap compression fittings. Tie this into 2 points on the same coolant line. Install a ball valve in the coolant line inbetween these two points. Throttle the valve down just enought to generate the desired flow through the seat. What is the ID of the coolant line you are considering tapping? I have designed/installed a few of these systems in houses. See my website www.kustomkontractor.com
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Rear End Clicking, I Recieved Some Interesting Info!
OutKast replied to mashley's topic in Watering Hole
"out of round" is different than "bent". "out of round" would not straighten itself from the pull of the nut. 110 ft# does seem high to me. -
WANT TO TALK TO ANOTHER BIKE w/o AUDIO
OutKast replied to TESchoener's topic in GPS, Audio, Electronics
We have the J&M cb on my wife's Intruder. It has a 6 pin setup. Headsets are the same, but need to switch the "lower cord" if she rides behind me, or I borrow her bike.