RPG
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Most of the softwarew version changes involve them simply adding new subdivision addresses in various cities across the States and Canada. I travelled across the States and Canada this past fall using ver. 6 on my old SP3, never missed a turn. I wouldn't pass up a really good deal on a Garmin just to wait for a one step newer version of their software. If no great deals out there to be had, than by all means wait and get the newer software.
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Thats a bit strange alright. I would begin by checking my battery connections to ensure that they are clean and tight. It sounds like you may have a poor ground connection between your acc. plug and your battery.
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RSV Electrical Capacity Info
RPG replied to V7Goose's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I've been considering installing a switch to shut down my low beam as well, for those days when I want both vests and my grip warmers on. We travell only during the daylight hours and besides its easy to turn them back on when not using all the equipment or travelling in higher traffic area's. Its a lot easier and cheaper than fooling around with the alternator coils I think. A degree of safety removed for a short duration I agree but done cautiously it is an easy solution to my need for more wattage, at least long enough to keep the battery charged. -
Pads aren't expensive and are easy to change so why would you want to take a chance, if in any doubt just change them, better to be safe.
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Do-it-yourself heated clothing assembly information
RPG replied to Venturing Sole's topic in General Tech Talk
I'll give this a shot, I'm not real good at explaining but here goes; I stitch the teflon wire into the vest using one strand of copper wire, I think its 8 guage, sharpened to a point on one end and the other end flattened and drilled (end result looks like a darning needle, which you could use if you wanted, I just couldn't find one long enough to suit my needs) I started the stitch at the waist band under the left arm, after running the wire looping through the vest, I finish the stitch beside the one I started at the waist band area below the left arm. I then connect a short length of lamp cord to each teflon wire using solder first then a blue crimp wire connector over the soldered area.(You have to remember to slide the wire crimps on before you solder the wires) I then securily sew a rubber washer below the connection and knot the lamp cord to the washer, this prevents the teflon wire/lampcord connection to be accidently pulled appart. Now solder your two wire coax connection to the lamp cord using the connector that matches the right hand connector in your photo third from the right. That should be it. -
That sounds like a good idea alright.
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Here's a rear view of mine with the rack on.
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I have the Venturedad hitch. I've had it for a couple of years now, its very well made and inexpensive. I'm very happy with it and would buy another one in an instant if I needed another one.
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Nonsense!
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Interesting reading, I wonder how a major modification like that would effect engine warranty.
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Strange situation for sure. I guess the problem with the warranty must be due to the title change from the US to Canada.?? As far as getting warranty work done on a Canadian Venture in the States I can tell you from personel experience, was no problem what so ever. I would assume it would be the same for the US travellers into Canada.
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I might be more concerned with the ability to stop than the ability to pull. I'm sure it'll pull more than it can safely stop with. Just a thought.
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Short and simple is, Octane raises the flash point of gasoline. (causes the gas to ignite at a higher temp. than without octane) Pre-Ignition is caused by gasoline igniting due to high pressure and high temperature before the sparkplug fires, this can cause your motor to make a knocking sound and can seriously damage the engine. Octane in the proper ratio prevents pre-ignition.
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WD-40 and compressed air. Works great.
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JeffC, if nothing else I guess Goose and I showed you why your getting two different answers. Next time you lift your left toe and that little light comes on, you can choose as to what you think it is telling you, either way you will be correct. It will be in 5th, 5th is high gear and 5th has an overdrive gear ratio that is at, or exceeds 1:1, use which ever one is information you think is useful to you and enjoy the ride!
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Yea I guess you must be correct, after all they did dedicate a light to let us know were not just in 5th, were in OVERDRIVE! Lol Lol!!!
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Goose, it is just top gear. If you kon't know enough to down shift when needed in 5th its unlikely you'd know enough to down shift in 3rd or 2nd the "non-overdrive" gears. Calling 5th overdrive is a marketing joke. Like calling high octane gas "Super" At least thats what I think.
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Wonder why it would so important (enough to assign a light to the situation)to know that your rear wheel was turning faster than your motor. Hmm. Should have one for 4th as well, maybe a purple one, if for no other reason than to not confuse people. Lol! I feel so foolish thinking it was a high gear indicator with a fancy name. LoL!
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I believe the purpose of the light is to let you know that your bike is in high gear. You can call 5th over drive if you like, its still just 5th gear or high gear. It really wouldn't make any sense to have it come on for 4th gear, would kinda remove any purpose for the light.
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If it has a choke and not a primer, I'd check to see that the choke was operating correctly. It sounds like it could be a stuck choke or maybe broken choke cable.
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Thats the risk you run when you request the basket change, you may get one thats worse than what you had, and then your really stuck. Its unfortunate that Yamaha can't, or doesn't want to fix the problem. I know a person who would like to buy a new venture, but won't because he's afraid he may get a chirper. Can't say I blame him. I had considered trading mine in for a newer one, but mine doesn't chirp so I'll just keep it for now or at least until it starts chirping, I'm at 50k KM',s now so I guess I'm lucky.
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Thats a slick idea! I might have to give that a try!
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Thats correct, its important the rods go back into their original holes. Thats why I suggest doing one at a time, to avoid mixing them up.
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I had posted this prior to the crash and thought it might be helpful to anyone owning a Carbtune so here it goes again; I've owned a Morgan Carbtune for a couple of years now and used it quite a few times with no problem, until today. I could not get consistent readings, the rods would rise and fall with changes in throttle settings but two rods would not change their positions at idle in response to adjusting the balancing screws. In other words, when I turned the adjusting screws only one rod on each bank would rise or fall, the other rod would just stay fixed, making proper balancing impossible. I removed the Carbtune, took it over to my workbench and removed the bottom cover, opposite the hoses, I removed the rods one at a time, polished the rods with a cotton cloth, I then inserted a Q-tip into each of the brass rod bushings, a surprising amount of black residue came out of each rod bushing. I reassembled the Carbtune, hooked it back to the bike and tried it again, this time all the rods moved smoothly and I was able to sync the carbs. From now on I'm going to make cleaning my Carbtune a first step in syncing my carbs, it only takes about 10 minutes and guarantees a correctly operating piece of equipment.
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Years ago we used to put a penny behind our blown glass fuses in the house while we were waiting to get a new one, it was a common practice. The fact that we and many others did this didn't make the practice a good or safe idea. More than a few houses ended up in ashes because of forgotten pennies. The same holds true to your advice, your getting away with it for now and that is fine for you and you may stay lucky for years, who knows, but its still bad advice. You should take the time to wire your passing lights correctly, there is no negative to doing it properly. AWG 22 wire, I believe is safe to 7A DC. If you do melt your system, it would be a good idea to replace that 10A fuse with a 5A before asking for any warranty assistance.