Mach VIII

Bob K. - Thanks for the detailed information. Curious names Yamaha chose to use for some of these parts, but so be it. So if I'm reading your information correctly, there's only 1/4" difference between the factory "cap" and the PVC spacer that Progressive provided. While that might make some amount of difference, I don't expect it to be worlds difference in terms of feel/handling with such a slight increase in preload. Since it is easy to do, I might try using the CLASS to add a few more pounds of pressure up front and increase the preload that way. It's cheap and it's easy, so worth a try I suppose. From what I read in other threads, most with Progressives are running with the minimum pressure up front (4 PSI as I recall), or on the "LOW" setting which is a few PSI higher. Anyone else experimented with this with results they can share? Skydoc, I have no doubt you're correct in your assessment of the spindly front forks. This is something that seemed to plague all Japanese bikes at least until the mid to late 1990's when beefier forks began showing up on sportbikes. Of course it's taken longer for that to spread out to other models. I have no idea if a "mid brace" would improve things or not. If you try it though, I'd be keen to learn of your results. I'm certainly envious of your skills and access to tools as a machinist to create custom parts. I'd try it myself, but only limited by my lack of skills, lack of training/experience, lack of access to tooling, and lack of ready access to materials. LOL

I'd like some clarification on some things. Those that are using the PVC spacers - are you using these IN ADDITION TO the factory spacer that has the fat o-ring (the one that is 1-2 inches thick), OR INSTEAD of that factory spacer? Sorry I don't know what else to call that part. The factory setup (as shown above) has what are, to my eyes, 2 spacers - a short one with the fat o-ring and the long thin metal tube. I know not to use the thin metal tube spacer. Second question, what is the actual length of the PVC spacers provided by Progressive? I don't have them, so references to 1/2 or 3/4 of the spacer length do not have any meaning to me without the original length measurement as reference. Thanks.

Will do, but you're likely to get to it before me. I've got some other home and bike projects to get to first.

Good point. I did, however, install a Superbrace on mine and am having those issues.

I'm quite interested in this topic. I have been confused about what spacers, parts, and how much oil to use after reading through a ridiculous number of posts/threads. Some of it seems to spring (pardon the pun) from inconsistent naming of parts. Earlier this year (while completing my service & restoration) I opened up the forks to replace the fork oil. To my delight, I found that the previous owner had installed Progressive springs up front. I believe I found my forks to be set up like the top spring in this picture - using only the threaded fork cap, the spacer with the fat o-ring, and the spring. There may have been a washer in there too, I can't remember. I believe I tried making and adding some PVC spacers, but there was no way I could get the fork caps down and get the threads started, so I left them out (I'm healthy and able-bodied enough to do such a job, so that wasn't the problem). While I'm sure the fork oil replacement was helpful, I find the front end to "wallow" when pushing the bike through the twisties. I can touch down pegs, but it doesn't feel all that planted up front when leaned over at speed. That was certainly disappointing, but then I don't really know what to expect from such a big bike. This sounds like what Pasta Burner is experiencing as well. I don't notice the bike diving excessively, which is good, but better cornering would be very much welcomed.

Thanks for the replies. Skydoc - lots of good information there. I hadn't really thought about it before reading your post, but it sounds like I could simply grind off a little material from the stock lever where it contacts the plunger in order to move the position back some to my liking. While that wouldn't be the same as having some "trick" adjustable and foldable levers, that's fine for this bike's intended usage. I don't usually adjust the lever position more than once on my bikes that DO have adjustable levers. Even better - it's FREE!! (assuming I don't screw it up - hehehe).

So I just got back from my first trip on my recently "restored" '89 VR. My buddy and I rode from North Carolina up to the AMA Vintage Days Motorcycle Festival at Mid-Ohio Raceway and back last weekend. Around 1100 miles or so round trip. Me on my VR and he on his '86 Goldwing SEI. The first roadtrip for either of these bikes in some years. The VR did great! The 'Wing....not so much, but that's another story. One of the things I noticed is that the stock brake lever was out from the grip a bit further than I like. I have delinked the brakes and installed R6 calipers. The lever is pretty firm, so I would like it to be a bit closer to the bar as I prefer to cover and brake with two fingers - especially in the twistier stuff. I was surprised to see that the levers aren't adjustable on these bikes. I was even more surprised to see that there do not appear to be any after-market ones available either. So, I started wondering about cross-referencing for some adjustable levers intended to fit other bikes. The most likely candidate seems like it would be original VMax ('85-'03). Does anyone know if those are a direct fit to the stock master cylinders on a MkII first gen Venture? If so, there seem to be some inexpensive adjustable options available to fit the VMax's (primarily sportbike style, which I'm fine with). I've searched the forum here and Google but am surprised I don't find any clear answers. A couple items seemed to suggest they might fit. One post indicated someone made some minor modification/grinding and then they fit. If VMax levers won't fit, are there levers from any other bikes that DO fit the first generation Venture? Thanks.

Good advise I'm sure. Right now there's just some rolled up bubble wrap in there the PO put into help keep the shape I suppose. I don't really ride 2-up anymore, so it probably won't even get used. BTW, a couple rubber washers behind the bag did the trick to take up the extra slack I mentioned previously.

Wow Jim, that's incredibly generous of you! Thank you for your offer. You are certainly earning a way onto my Christmas list. Lol.

Thanks for the clarification Saddlebum. Too bad the thread pitch is different or a coupler would be a quick solution as well. I think I still prefer the simplicity of what I'm proposing lower down on the riser. Freebird mentioned some concern about compromising strength. Anyone have further thoughts on this? What about the clearance issues mentioned by luvmy40?

Well, my phone mount is a handlebar style, while the GPS cradle uses a RAM mount ball, so it really would not be easy to just swap locations considering the limited round handlebar real-estate. I've done a bit of navigating with my phone, but have found it a bit lacking for my uses compared to a dedicated device. If I'm just trying to get from point A to B, I'm happy to use the phone - particularly in the car or truck. But I understand opinions vary on that topic.

As far as using a threaded coupler to replace the handlebar nut, I expect it would be hard to source one that is the correct size in metric thread. I expect a metric coupler is tougher to find just in general, but it would have to obviously be big enough to fit the handlebar, which would likely be too big on the other end to fit a RAM threaded ball, as M10 seems to be the biggest offered in metric. I don't recall the size of the handlebar nut, but I'm fairly confident it is bigger than an M10. If it is an M10, then searching for such a coupler could be a good option, though it would likely result in the GPS being positioned closer to me and on a different plane than the phone mount. Hmmm. I don't have access to a lathe, or aluminum stock. I do have a cheap metric tap & die set. That seems like a much more complicated solution though than simply drilling and tapping a hole in the riser, no? Thank you for all the links. It is good to know there are a few other size options for the threaded ball mounts in particular. I should have checked their website myself to see what all options were available. Looks like I could go 5/16, 3/8, M6, or M8 as well. Another variant, in case clearance inside the channel is an issue, would be to get a female threaded ball mount, then use a button-head bolt from the channel side. The downside to that is that the stud itself would not be threaded into the riser, but that might not be a big deal.

I've considered that as a "back-up" option. To get the GPS located where I'd like it using a reservoir mount would require a longer arm routed behind the phone mount. That would also limit my ability to adjust the position of the GPS to dead center if/when wanted, which is something I'd be able to do if mounting as I propose and using a short arm.

Most likely to fit a 1/4-20 or an M10 as those seem to be the only sizes RAM offers. So nothing especially large.

Well topic kinda states what I'm asking, but I'll elaborate for clarity's sake. I'm looking for a good place to mount my new TomTom Rider GPS. I have already installed a phone mount on the left handlebar of my 89 VR and happy with its location. I've looked at some other mounting options for the GPS, but I think I'd like to have it mounted just to the right of the phone so it is on the same level and plane as the phone, close to my normal sight line, doesn't block gauges, and can be reached easily with left hand. I've read about the "snagglestuds" a member used to offer, but I don't think those are available anymore. Besides, it seems like a simple and clean solution would be to just drill and tap a hole in the left handlebar riser (the odd shaped aluminum piece) and install a RAM mount ball stud. Then I can use one of their arms of whatever length is needed to get the GPS where I want it. Total cost would be around $20. I'm looking at drilling and installing the ball in the black painted portion an inch or so down from the factory hole. When the GPS isn't on the bike the only thing visible would be the small black RAM mount ball stud (which only cost about $9 btw). In addition to tapping the hole, was thinking it would be good to use a nut on the other side of the hole as well. Any reason this wouldn't work or is a bad idea? Is there enough room in the channel of that riser for a nut AND the wiring that runs through there? Other thoughts or comments on this idea? Thanks.

Special thanks to Jayceesfolly for sending me a couple of those turn button eyelets and studs. Jim you're right that they're not quite as stout as the original ones. Also, the "neck" just below the turn button piece is a bit longer than stock, which means the bag fits a bit looser on the studs. That said, the screw holes on the mounting plate are an exact match, so they will fit right into place. For those looking for a repair or replacement like I was, I think this is a viable solution. I may add a couple of rubber or nylon washers onto the "neck" of the stud behind the bag just to take up the slack. Again, thanks for the help Jim!

Thanks! No doubt it's a different animal than my Kawi ZX12R or my SuperMagnas, but I'm looking forward to some adventures with it. Absolutely. I de-linked the brakes and swapped the stock calipers for ones from an R6, so the brake fluid was changed as part of that process. Clutch fluid was changed as well, since I had to rebuild the slave cylinder. And to round out the category, I replaced the differential fluid as well, since I have no service history for the bike.

Will do! Thanks.

Terrific find. Thank you Jim. I will measure the screw hole spacing on the OEM ones and see if they will match up with these, as I think it will be necessary to reuse the stock plate that goes inside the top case. One of the reviews in the Amazon listing says the spacing between the screw holes is 7/8" for those. [Fingers crossed]

Well, after more than a year and a half, I'm (hopefully) wrapping up the restoration of my blue '89 Cali VR. I've finished up the mechanical work (carbs, air-ride system, cruise, starter clutch, valve cover gasket, slave cylinder rebuild, etc.), (deferred) maintenance items (fluids, valve adjustment, tires, fuel filter, plugs, plug boots), upgrades (R6 calipers, de-linked brakes, phone mount & charger, new driving lights, etc.), and addressed the cosmetics. The list turned out to be much longer than anticipated for each of those categories, but at long last I think the end is nearly here. As I was washing, waxing, and detailing it (the last step in the restoration.....besides riding and enjoying of course), I noticed that the little passenger storage pouch that hangs off of one side of the rear trunk was dangling down. The bag is held in place with two brackets with protruding twisting knobs. I see now that the twisting knob on one of them is broken off, so it doesn't hold the bag in place at all. I looked it up and I believe that part is on permanent back-order. Yamaha calls it a "hook" and the part number is 54K-2844L-00-00, I think. Each of the two "hooks" is held on by 2 small screws that screw into a small plate on the inside of the trunk. So has anyone got one of these twisty-knob "hooks" they could part with, or know where to get one? I don't know if the Mk1 Ventures have these little pouches or not. I can probably cobble something together with zipties if needed, but thought I'd ask here, as I'd prefer for it to be "right." If there are other solutions that have been used, let me know. If I have posted this in the wrong place, please forgive me and let me know where it would be better placed. Thanks!

UPDATE - I got the carbs off and a different shop went through them for me (that's a whole other story, and would've just done them myself had I known what all I would go through to get the done/back), finding a few potential issues. The shop replaced the jetblock plugs, one of the jets, and a diaphragm while apart. Nice guy and conscientious about his work, which I appreciated. The carbs are back on and I've done some tuning including carb. synch and adjusting the pilot screws. Checking the plugs and adjusting the pilots further is getting it pretty good now, I think. Pulled the plugs and #1 was wet, while #4 was kinda black and sooty. #1 was not firing at idle. Oddly, I had to turn #1 & #4 in almost all of the way to improve idle and get #1 to fire at idle and lower speeds. After the tuning I ran a tank of gas through it and got around 37 MPH, with a lot of 70+ MPH speeds, but solo without any cargo. Weeks later I replaced the plugs with a set of iridium NGK's and took it out for another test ride, this time getting 34.7 MPH on almost all 70+ interstate riding. Both of these numbers seem a bit low from what I've read elsewhere on the forum, but others report similar numbers, so I don't know what to think. I pulled plugs again the other day #1 is still a little wet, and #4 is better than it was before. #2 & #3 look great. In any event, it is running much better now. I think I just need to put some real miles on the bike and see how it does. Seeing as it was out of commission for at least a few years before I got it, getting some miles under it's belt would surely be good for it. I even managed to adjust the valves and replace the front valve cover gasket while I had it all apart. The bike has come together quite nicely as I've been finishing up my restoration. Just finished replacing the fork oil, coolant, engine oil, and filter the other day, so now all of the fluids have been replaced. I think it's finally ready to hit the road, even if it took me MUCH longer to get to this point than I ever anticipated. Thanks to all who assisted in this thread!

I did the same thing on my #4 carb. My understanding is that this is not a part that can be bought or generally found separately. I can't say if it's easy to pull and replace one - since I couldn't source a replacement, I didn't bother trying to remove my broken one. I did try repairing it using a bit of a brass pilot (??) jet, then JB Weld'ing it all together. Seemed to hold just fine....until I attempted to reinstall the carb bank. Tried a couple of times, each with the same result, so I just gave up on it. Maybe others will have some better suggestions.

Wow, what an incredible update! Thank you for your diligence and persistence. And most of all, thank you for the detailed write up. It's really good inspiration and motivation to keep me moving forward with my own resurrection project.

That's perfect. Again, thank you Casey.

That sounds like it should work for my needs. Mine's so bad I'm hesitant to reinstall it. Thank you for all the trouble you've gone to. I'll PM you.