Sounds like a bad ground to me too. Over on the right front vertical, a little bit above the starter motor and water pump, you'll see a ground strap attached to the tube. Check for corrosion. Clean the surfaces and put a little dielectric grease on it and re-fasten. That's the one that seems to get corroded first due to exposure.....
I have a set of touring RK's on 7o9, and don't notice any difference except the nice rumble, But...... the set the dealer gave me 'por nada' for the '04 are nasty loud, and it goes from idle to 5000rpm in a nano-second. They were also supposed to be RK's?? So maybe yes..maybe no??
Good question... I donno?? That may be a question for Team Viewer. Just cogitating here, but maybe the Ipad app controls those functions from the touch screen???
I'm running the same program on my PC, and I see on their website they also have an app for the Ipad.
https://www.teamviewer.com/hi/download/mobile.aspx
This one came with a well used Bluetooth keyboard. Seems to work... take a charge at least..., but haven't tried to use it. I just bought an aluminum keyboard/cover/case combo off eBay. Hey for $10 bucks?? From what I've heard the Bluetooth boards are a little slower than a hard wire, so we'll see....?? Like Eileen I'm slowly becoming infatuated with this thing....
So I've been thinking about getting a nook to carry along on MC trips, and went to this auction last week. They had an Apple Ipad Gen3 listed, and I ended up high bidder. After 35 years of computing, and dozens of computers this is my first Apple product. After the initial 'hand shake' and fumbling around, I really like this thing. To get it fired up I had to visit the local Apple store and pick up a new charger cable...the one supplied was toast... The battery was dead..dead..dead so it took a while to get it to 100%, but once there it holds a charge very well. I'm a happy camper...
There's a rubber baffle located in the rear brake reserve that will expand when low on fluid, and then hold the sender float down when topped off so the sender reads that the reserve is low on fluid. Take a coat hanger with a small 'L' on the end and lift a few of the pleats back into the top thru the fill hole and the CMOS light should go out. You may not be able to get them all folded back up, but a couple will do..... The other alternative would be to remove the reserve and open it up to fold the pleats back up.....
I always wanted to get a set up to balance the air pressures of the 2ndGen front fork like the set up on the 1stGen, and probably would have picked up one of those made by Progressive but they've been discontinued for quite a while. I also thought some sort of shock equalizer would work on the Voyager Kit since having the pressure and rebound on both shocks would be better than the independent shocks on there now. So...here's where it gets interesting.... I picked up a set of Harley 13" air shocks off eBay complete with the 2 into one air line connections. Should do the job on the Voyager. Then the light bulb went on. What if I could take the connector air line kit, remove the front fork Schrader's, and put the Harley set up in the Schrader openings of the front forks?? The only problem could be the thread size of the Schrader openings being compatible. They even have newer sets with a right angle fitting. If this works it could be a definite plus for 2ndGen cornering.... Anyone know if the Schrader's are pretty much standardized world wide???
Getting back to the dead battery... I've found that if you don't turn the audio off it will drain the battery if stored for a long period of time.... For overnighters it doesn't make that much difference....
Actually it puts out around 115vdc. The AGM only read 8.9vdc when it died. I thought it was a goner, but put it on my smart charger in the motel room and by the next morning it it had taken a full charge. I didn't bother swapping it out at the time because I expected the wet cell to last through the days ride. Not so. It died in the afternoon about 16 miles from town. So I swapped back to the AGM and R&R'd the rectifier the next morning. I'm still running that AGM in the '99 today. As far as 17vdc frying a battery, it's not the volts, it's the amps that'll do a batt in. I ran that AGM for almost 3 days with the head lights and CB on, and I think I probably would have made it to Cody except for running the passing lights for about 70 miles on a two lane road with 75+mph oncoming traffic in Wyoming. That killed it.
I had a similar situation while riding to Cody for the International in 2011. Before leaving on the ride I did check the charge voltage and it was putting out 17vdc. I didn't have time to get into it before leaving, and the AGM battery finally quit on the third day about 80 miles south of Cody in the town of Thermopolis. Every thing flickered and then just croaked. Had to buy a wet cell from an auto supply across the street from where I landed and made it the rest of the way to Cody. I did toss a new Rectifier in the bag before leaving just because. The wet sell lasted about a day and then it died. We got the bike back to the motel and replaced the rectifier and road it all the way back home without incident. I think what was going on is the stator was putting out 17 vdc, but only a few amps. So my best guess on you problem is it's the rectifier....
I just noticed the AV71 and no AM41 in the J&P catalog that hit my doorstep yesterday. http://www.jpcycles.com/product/210-230 They also had several listed in NWW and WWW. Looks like a nice tire and one built for Cruising, not street performance. I'll give them a try when I need to replace any on the RSV's. Only trouble is these E3's are wearing like iron.....