Condor

True, forgot about that.... So there ya go.

Good question... I donno?? That may be a question for Team Viewer. Just cogitating here, but maybe the Ipad app controls those functions from the touch screen???

I'm running the same program on my PC, and I see on their website they also have an app for the Ipad. https://www.teamviewer.com/hi/download/mobile.aspx

Big 10-4 on the banana nut.... Maybe we can even talk @EasyRider out of hibernation?? Just say when...

This one came with a well used Bluetooth keyboard. Seems to work... take a charge at least..., but haven't tried to use it. I just bought an aluminum keyboard/cover/case combo off eBay. Hey for $10 bucks?? From what I've heard the Bluetooth boards are a little slower than a hard wire, so we'll see....?? Like Eileen I'm slowly becoming infatuated with this thing....

So I've been thinking about getting a nook to carry along on MC trips, and went to this auction last week. They had an Apple Ipad Gen3 listed, and I ended up high bidder. After 35 years of computing, and dozens of computers this is my first Apple product. After the initial 'hand shake' and fumbling around, I really like this thing. To get it fired up I had to visit the local Apple store and pick up a new charger cable...the one supplied was toast... The battery was dead..dead..dead so it took a while to get it to 100%, but once there it holds a charge very well. I'm a happy camper...

Dang Ed...!! Now you're making me feel guilty. Servicing 7 of 9 is on my 2do list. I just have to get motivated. Mañana.. Mañana...

Many Happy returns of the day Herb....

So... where are all the pics??? How is someone located half the world away supposed to attend vicariously.....

There's a rubber baffle located in the rear brake reserve that will expand when low on fluid, and then hold the sender float down when topped off so the sender reads that the reserve is low on fluid. Take a coat hanger with a small 'L' on the end and lift a few of the pleats back into the top thru the fill hole and the CMOS light should go out. You may not be able to get them all folded back up, but a couple will do..... The other alternative would be to remove the reserve and open it up to fold the pleats back up.....

Any info on what happened???

I always wanted to get a set up to balance the air pressures of the 2ndGen front fork like the set up on the 1stGen, and probably would have picked up one of those made by Progressive but they've been discontinued for quite a while. I also thought some sort of shock equalizer would work on the Voyager Kit since having the pressure and rebound on both shocks would be better than the independent shocks on there now. So...here's where it gets interesting.... I picked up a set of Harley 13" air shocks off eBay complete with the 2 into one air line connections. Should do the job on the Voyager. Then the light bulb went on. What if I could take the connector air line kit, remove the front fork Schrader's, and put the Harley set up in the Schrader openings of the front forks?? The only problem could be the thread size of the Schrader openings being compatible. They even have newer sets with a right angle fitting. If this works it could be a definite plus for 2ndGen cornering.... Anyone know if the Schrader's are pretty much standardized world wide???

Prayers sent Dan.

Yep that was back when we had a little water.... Taking 7 of 9 out of mothballs.

Beat me to it Carl.....

Getting back to the dead battery... I've found that if you don't turn the audio off it will drain the battery if stored for a long period of time.... For overnighters it doesn't make that much difference....

We had two 1stGen Canadian riders do that exact same thing when one bike's stator died on the way to the Cody International back in '11.

Actually it puts out around 115vdc. The AGM only read 8.9vdc when it died. I thought it was a goner, but put it on my smart charger in the motel room and by the next morning it it had taken a full charge. I didn't bother swapping it out at the time because I expected the wet cell to last through the days ride. Not so. It died in the afternoon about 16 miles from town. So I swapped back to the AGM and R&R'd the rectifier the next morning. I'm still running that AGM in the '99 today. As far as 17vdc frying a battery, it's not the volts, it's the amps that'll do a batt in. I ran that AGM for almost 3 days with the head lights and CB on, and I think I probably would have made it to Cody except for running the passing lights for about 70 miles on a two lane road with 75+mph oncoming traffic in Wyoming. That killed it.

I had a similar situation while riding to Cody for the International in 2011. Before leaving on the ride I did check the charge voltage and it was putting out 17vdc. I didn't have time to get into it before leaving, and the AGM battery finally quit on the third day about 80 miles south of Cody in the town of Thermopolis. Every thing flickered and then just croaked. Had to buy a wet cell from an auto supply across the street from where I landed and made it the rest of the way to Cody. I did toss a new Rectifier in the bag before leaving just because. The wet sell lasted about a day and then it died. We got the bike back to the motel and replaced the rectifier and road it all the way back home without incident. I think what was going on is the stator was putting out 17 vdc, but only a few amps. So my best guess on you problem is it's the rectifier....

I just noticed the AV71 and no AM41 in the J&P catalog that hit my doorstep yesterday. http://www.jpcycles.com/product/210-230 They also had several listed in NWW and WWW. Looks like a nice tire and one built for Cruising, not street performance. I'll give them a try when I need to replace any on the RSV's. Only trouble is these E3's are wearing like iron.....

Sorry to hear about your mishap Rick. Anything you need let me know...

I've been following this thread and trying to make sense of it all.... even the reverse bleed which isn't that big of a deal. On the position of the cup on the plunger, the lip should rest between the expansion hole and the larger supply hole at the floor of the reserve. Not sure where you have it now, but in the middle of the those large threads on the plunger doesn't seem to ring a bell. When a system is empty it's a PITA getting fluid to start thru the line. I'll send you a write-up on a simple method to reverse bleed. Also when using speed bleeders, DO NOT, try to pump up the pressure and seat the pads. Leave the pistons pressed back into the caliper. It reduces the volume of the caliper and takes less fluid to force the air out.... Basically initially reverse bleed the caliper, then re-install the speed bleeder, then start pumping the master to force fluid back down thru the caliper with the speed bleeder open. When the fluid is air free, close the bleeder down and seat the pads.

Running Harley RK's on my '07RSV. Runs great and 47mpg....

The vibration when pulling hard is either running on 3 cylinders or way out of carb sync....

I'm toying with the idea of replacing the OEM Voyager shocks with a set of Harley Touring Air Shocks. The type of shocks that are on there now are no longer available from the factory, and I don't want to pop the bucks for a later model set. Since the down force on the wheels is so critical I figured a set that could be kept 'balanced' might be a performance enhancement?? Any thoughts??