Condor

Really.....

Is there an over the counter Thermostat that will fit the 2ndGen?? Auto Zone, O'Reillys, Napa?? The OEM price gives one a nose bleed... :-) Part number 1AE-12410-00-00

Oh come on..... So it wasn't spelled correctly. Does everything here have to be spell checked to make sure it's perfect.... and you can't figure it out for yourself????????? It not like we haven't talked about STEBELS before on this board... http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/331544399331?lpid=82&chn=ps

Oh come on..... So it wasn't spelled correctly. Does everything here have to be spell checked to make sure it's perfect.... and you can't figure it out for yourself????????? It not like we haven't talked about STEBELS before on this board... http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/331544399331?lpid=82&chn=ps

That's where I have a Stable mounted on the trike. When you're that close to ground zero it really doesn't make any difference where it's mounted....

They are new rebuild kits... nothing more. They are sold through local Yamaha dealers or on the web, and yes they generally come with instructions. If you don't feel comfortable rebuilding you can always take it to a dealer and have them do it... but that's gonna cost you a bunch. Here's a few threads you can read to get a few ideas. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/search.php?searchid=1157803 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/search.php?searchid=1157812

The master and slave kits are separate items. And yes it's best to replace the slave.

I still think overheated when riding in the mountains in 112 deg temps, and it leaking somewhere?? The top of the twinkie was wet with coolant on the kick stand side, and it ran down the stator cover. The high side of the twinkie was dry and dusty. So somewhere up in the valley between the banks there's a leak. I'm going to go ahead and reseal the water pump and flush the cooling system to hopefully take care of the oil in the radiator issue. Once that's done I'll take a look see on the leak and try to spot where it's coming from. It might have started with the pump, which caused the leak, and in turn caused the clutch slave to go bad... Kinda a domino effect... With me it's never simple, but when I'm through wrestling with it, I've learned a ton about one more part of these Ventures....

Many thanks for the idea Steve. Another option.. I hope.... that's what it might be. Don't want to think about a head gasket, and the water pump seal is a lot easier to deal with than the twinkie. I have seen a few threads on the seal having to be replaced over the years.

Here's another with a little more maybe... LOL http://www.cast-aways.com/vr91vs83.JPG It doesn't just flip down but more raises at the hinge and extends forward. Goofy set up....

So I finally got around to putting coolant back into the '07 after the overheat in Shasta. Removed the radiator cap and saw a tiny amount of milky oil in the throat. I then filled it with the green stuff and it barely took any to bring it to the top. More milk started to float to the top. It's sitting right now to see just how much I've got in there. I also pulled the tube out of the overflow and the tip was covered with oil. Filled it again to see how much will float up, but it looked like there's at least a 1/2 inch in the bottom. THERE IS NO WATER IN THE CRANK. THE MOTOR RUNS FINE AND IT DOESN"T SMOKE. So My thinking is it could be the Twinkie or a blown head gasket?? I'm open to thoughts and suggestions. Maybe picking up a low mile salve motor might be the cheapest way to go?? The bike has 80,000 on the ODO.

OK, but they were still an accessory.....

Pick up a Master rebuild kit. It's time....

On the backfiring on deceleration all the suggestions are right on, but I found another. Sabotage. While working on my '99 which had been dealer serviced by the previous owner I ran across the attached when I had my tank off. I know chafe when I see it, and this wasn't. It was hidden on the back side of the hose where it couldn't be seen and was definitely cut. The bike backfired a little with the OEM exhaust, but like crazy after installing the Bub's. I thought it was the Bub's. Looks like that wasn't my problem, but some devious mechanic that wanted to create additional work. Easy fix with some 100 mile an hour tape.

Agree'd. No antifreeze properties. They just do what they're designed to do.... My F250 7.3 diesel doesn't pop open. The engine heats up to running temp and stays there. Hard to believe that the they make a special thermostat for the Dodge that opens and drops back down to 30 to 40 degs, and then warms back up again. Are you sure the thing hasn't been put in upside down?? I've seen it happen.. Then the ambient heat causes a delayed reaction and it opens all at once. Once it's open the coolant flow will cause it to regulate accordingly. Or... you have a sticking thermo...

They're not floorboards, but more foot rests for short legged people... i.e.. kids.... You do not want to put a ton of weight on them... There was a few things made by Baron's that were listed in the VentureLine accessory brochure that were sold separately, and I didn't see anything on the saddle bag rails. So they were probably made by Baron's with an foot rest option due to some coming without the tabs. Hdhtr had them on his '90. Tried to talk him out of them but was unsuccessful.... I think it would be a great place to mount a Steble horn...

The water wetter's don't make the engine run any cooler than the thermostat temp, but it will keep it there. During hotter weather your engine will run above thermostat rated temps depending on how it's run. Water wetter's will keep the engine closer to that temp. I'm not sure what the thermo temp is on a Venture but I doubt it's 210. Probably more like 185-190. And it doesn't just pop open when it reaches that temp or slam shut when it's cooler. It's sorta a temp regulator with wide open being the max at 190 or?? All the water wetter does is make the heat transfer more efficient when absorbing off the metals or when transferring to the radiator fins. How?? Heck if I know, but it works. Especially at the higher temps...

They are made to take the fold up Venture Line passenger foot rests for kids.

Cool!! I wonder what it would look like tracking a bike through the twisties

I can't speak about the 'orange' stuff in a bike, but I did use it in my Suburban and it screwed up everything. Couldn't get rid of it even after a professional flushing. I have used O'Reilys 50/50 green stuff and it seems to do the job. I also add a couple of ounces of Purple Ice water wetter, and it does run cooler. It made a heck of a difference in the '83 on the way back from Ft Collins. That was a heck of a trip...huh?? I don't know what was in the '07, but it's all gone now. Seems like a few of us had problems after and during VW-Shasta.

I repaired the cracks in my '99 with this stuff. Went to my local Y dealer and picked up the over priced metal reinforcement plates, and chemically welded the cracks and installed the plates.... I didn't have to remove a thing, and I had a lot of spider cracks. Took about 10 minutes. The IPS 2354 is a clear watery liquid that melts the crack back together. It wicks into the crack so there's no need to drill anything, and afterwards you can't see the crack from the outside. A little of this stuff goes a long way. I've been using it for all repairs on both my 1st and 2nd Gens for years. It's designed to use with ABS plastic, and works great. You can buy it online, or around here it's sold at the local Tap Plastics Stores.

Interesting read.....

If you're calling the black antenna load a 'spark plug' then you're getting close. The 99's had a different antenna assembly, and you may have bought one of the newer styles, and you're in luck. The new antenna base will interchange with the old, and since it only has a 18" co-ax to the CB radio it's easily replaceable. Just remove the trunk and plug it in.... Now if you just received the new style antenna and no base you may have a problem as the new won't fit on the old base. Why don't you post a pic of what you have.....??

I picked up THIS The idea is to cover the ceramic,not compress it. The screen is sort of a keeper between the baffle slots and the ceramic which is sorta 'fluffy'....