Condor

Now I'm confused. My '87 is the same color. Now I gotta go dig it out and get the Vin off it to make sure??.....

Thanks for letting us know Brad. I don't follow non-family facebook, and very little of the immediate kin. I can totally understand Lonna wanting to beat her to a pulp after the last go around.... Glad you're walking away from this one. Bent bikes can be replaced....

Dan, do you have any hobbies out side of collecting Ventures?? Fishing?? Guns?? etc. Something you know a fair amount about... Buy 'm and sell 'm. Garage sales are great for fishing equipment source. Auctions are good for firearms. Always look for the bargain. I used to do camera equipment back in another lifetime. Did it for almost 20 years. Averaged 385% ROI.. (Return On Investment). Buy it for a buck and sell it for four... I don't trust any non-tangible investment... I want more control over what I'm doing. Wanna gamble go to Atlantic City....

Like once before I could be wrong, and if I remember correctly, the HH EBC Pads for the OEM '83 calipers are FA88HH?? OR FB88HH??

Voyager has a bunch of videos that are pretty informative. I leaned a lot about the installation... the 2nd time... :-) http://www.mtcvoyager.com/resources/videos/

I put a Voyager kit on my '04. The one thing I wish was that there was a local dealer to set it up. When you don't know what you're doing it can make things exciting the first time it's ridden. Now that it's tuned in it tracks great, and yes it takes some effort to doing a curve. I have found what makes it easier. Pushing instead of pulling on the grips. Push on the right to go left and visa versa. What this does is cause you to lean to the outside rather than leaning to the inside like a 2 wheeler. Also the tire pressures need to be checked religiously. I usually check before hitting the road... Definitely after it's been sitting for a long time. All that aside it was a huge savings over what a Hannigan would have cost. I can live with that... :-)

Their retail was $59 something, but the online retail seemed to be around $50, so.... I ended up paying $38 plus tax which got it up a little over $40.. $38 seemed to be about what all the online dealers were posting. I did find one though Ron Ayers for $31 but by the time I added shipping it cost more than my local dealer....

It not so much that the specs can't be replaced, but that it's off center in the flange. As far as making an aluminum adapter to fill I don't need the extra work. I got the OEM on a price matching policy with my local dealer so it wasn't a painful as it could have been. When I have time I'll take some pics...

Nice pics Dave. Brings back some great memories... I think going the most direct route and getting there quickly is something inbred in men. Sometimes it helps to escape...

My blood pressure is boarder line high. Nothing to panic over. So the doc prescribes a mild pill. Every time I take one the damn things it gets me to bouncing off the walls as I go down the hallway in the morning. No balance what's so ever. Usually takes a day or two to clear up. No way I could ride a bike. I don't take them any longer.....

OK, so off to NAPA this morning and I'm sure glad I had the eBay thermo housing with me. So much for the NAPA 156 thermo. Pulled it out of the box and tried it in the thermo body and it was way to small to work. The radius was at least 3/16th of an inch smaller than needed to stay in one place. I can't remember where I read about the NAPA 156, but it was here on the board somewhere. Anyone have a different number. I may have to bite the bullet and buy one from Yamaha...?? I need to get this puppy back on the road... or go out and buy another one... And that's what I did. After playing around with getting the thermo back into the housing and finally figuring out exactly what was wrong... the thermo is offset to one side... I popped for a new one. There is no way that an aftermarket thermo will work in the OEM housing. It has to be offset to match the relief inset. Yet another way for Yamaha to prioritize another part to just their bike... They could have designed it to take a number of aftermarkets, but no.... So to anyone reading this thread in the future forget about going cheap, and for those who have dropped an aftermarket thermo in there, it ain't working... And scratch the 156 Napa....

I picked up a complete thermo housing off eBay. $10 bucks...free ship. Checked the thermo and it didn't open up at near boil. So I'm going over to NAPA in the AM and pick up a 156. I haven't pulled the one already in the bike, but I'm willing to gamble for 6 bucks. I'm a little concerned about the 156 tho-. The pics on the NAPA site show one that has a double spring set up and it's taller than the OEM. However it does look like it'll fit in the housing. I'm taking it with me just to make sure....??

I've gotten used to it.....

Personally I'd stay away from it. It does look like it's a live-aboard with a leaky roof, and a 5th wheel too.... I bought a Terry 26 foot tow behind in like new condition for $4000 grand. 10-4 on the Victory....

With all that green, before doing anything else, I'd use Round Up......

I wonder if this has something to do with the ethanol they've been putting in the fuel??? Might be something we all need to be aware of....

Found a punch yesterday morning, and was able to drive the bearing and oil seal out of the housing and rebuild the pump body. No I didn't replace the bearing. After inspecting I couldn't find anything wrong with it. So it went back in. It had to come out to drive the seal housing out of the casting. Things are a lot tighter and the circular looseness is hardly noticeable, and it's a lot more solid feeling. Also able to remove all of the silicon off the cover side. I did find flakes of silicone in the passages. Hope they come out with the flush... Things are moving along. Time to get to the thermostat...

Have you been using Gel Cell batteries, or did you mean AGM 'absorbed glass matt' ??? Best way to check the charging system is pick up a multi-meter. Harbor Freight has them for about 6 bucks. Check the batter voltage at rest, at idle, and when running ay 2000rpm. Tell us what the readings are and I bet you'll get a ton of responses and ideas.... To get to the batt, remove the drivers saddle.

So the pumps finally off and apart. Getting that baby off was no easy chore. 'Specially the hex cap that holds the chrome tube. Getting back in there with an allen wrench was no fun. Now the fun part. I must have a half dozen drift punches to get the bearing out. Do you think I could locate just one. Lesson learned... Never loan you tools to your grandson... Off to HF this morning to buy another set. I even own a bearing puller. Couldn't find that either... Also when I finally checked the seals it looks like the oil seal had been installed backwards and just pulled out of the housing. So at this point I'm going to pick up another bearing. Might as well since I'm into it this far... Stay tuned....

Lowell... 'Wildhair' aka 'The Ambasador', wore a couple of those things out when he was tearing up the highway. That was after he wore out a couple of Ventures.... :-) I think he lived in the saddle...

Remove the eyebrows....

The female threads are located up inside the gold ring you see. The male stud portion should be mounted on the bracket where the co-ax goes into. The part that's broken in you pics is nothing more that a joint that allows the antenna to be layed down for your cover.

In this entire thread you have never posted what kind of VDC reading your getting off the battery with a multi-meter... at idle, running above 2000rpm, or after sitting over night. Knowing this would give us a really good idea of what's going on....

It's the heat exchanger that sets in the valley between the two piston banks. Years ago one of our members decided because he didn't know what the 'H' to call it he decided it looked like a twinkie. The name stuck and it's become an official part name... At least on this board... :-)

LOL) That would work.. But, I usually just stick a hose in the radiator neck and turn the water on to match the flow coming out the pump drain and run the engine for 15-20 minutes. However flushing again with vinegar would de-scale the cooling system??