Condor

Instead of fiddling around with rebuilding an OEM caliper, why don't you shop eBay for a set of R1 or R6 calipers and replace them both. The '86 already has 4 pistons so there probably won't be much stopping improvement... if any, but certain times of the year the R's can be found in very nice condition for around $50 bucks for the set. They will both fit in a medium International flat rate box for around $15US.

That's always what works for me... That's why I don't check the password option when deleting. It's a PITA having to remember all those passwords. You might have another catch in your system that isn't handled by the delete feature??? Just a WAS.... I haven't done it on mine but in older IE's I used to go in a manually delete the temp file?? Heck I don't even know if 7 has one??

That's one way to stop the leak......

That's what I was told Puc, but when I had the water pump apart that hose was plugged solid.

Go to IE tools and delete everything in your browsing history. When you log in don't check the 'remember me' box. Should take care of the autolog. And... if this has already been posted, sorry for being redundant...

If you're getting fluid all over your right leg it may be coming from the rear bank coolant hose area. If you lift the fuel tank there's a metal tube running back alongside the frame under the right side of the tank. I bet that where the coolant is leaking from. Attached is a pic of the tube. The two tabs connect to the screws of the carb diaphragm. As you can see there are several clamps that could possibly leaking. You will need to remove the tank to get to it. PS That smaller hose goes down to the twinkie.

On the early VR's the impeller in the water pump was plastic. You may have broken vanes. They are replaced with metal. Set the drain valve to on and fire the engine up with the cap off to see if there's circulation. If there is, turn the valve back to off. If it stops you probably have a bad thermostat.... Or possibly a bad radiator cap???

Great idea... Why didn't I think of that? My fluorescents are toast. I'll have to look at them the next time at Sam's..

I can understand Dan, but remember it's only worth what someone will give for it... I looked at the Motor Trike website and they do look like a quality kit. MOF right on the front page is a pic of a converted Victory. http://www.motortrike.com/ And... it looks good to me. Puc brought up something to consider. What would it cost to convert your '99??? I looked at a '99RSV/Hannigan locally and the guy was asking $15,000/bo. The bike had 91K on the ODO but the kit was only 3 years old. The bike had the raked forks and it came with a Alumacraft trailer, and it was still hard to justify the asking price. Believe me I did crunch the numbers... Then I looked at what it would cost me to have my '04RSMV Hanniganed, and it didn't make sense to even offer the guy $10K. So lots of different ways of looking at it, but 10 grand is pretty fair.... One more thing to consider. How much longer do you plan on riding. In my case, not long, and it also doesn't make sense to be tossing big bucks toward something that will probably only be usable for 3 maybe 4 years if that. It's still fun to look and dream....

The bike has a trade in value of around $5000. Do some research and find out what the trike conversion originally sold for and take 25% off the new price. That's what the trike is worth...tops... I have a friend who had his '07 RSV triked by Hannigan and it ran $11,800 installed. The base price of the kit is a little over 8gs. There are others..Lyman, California Side Car, etc. that aren't quite as much, but they're all close. Let's just for kicks say the trike is worth 8 grand. The value of the package is around $13,000. Just make damn well sure it has a quality conversion, and not some El Cheapo... Voyager is a nice rig, but it's only worth $2000 on the used market... Another thing to consider is the heat that's going to come off that motor.

I'm no Texas lawyer, but to me, if the owner in Louisiana signed the title and had it notarized, and you now have the title, it should be accepted and you can 'import' and title the bike in Texas.... I bought the '93VR from a service man in Tucson AZ, and it was titled in Virginia. I showed up at the CA-DMV with the signed title and the bike. An agent came out and checked the frame Vin#, Ok'd it, and it now has CA plates in my name. Here they want to make sure you're not just pushing paper...

I stand corrected. I used Clymers 'cause I can't find my OEM. Clymers sez 0-58psi, and that's close enough. Looks like it's drag out the compressor time... :-)

I often wonder about the suspension pressures. On a 1stGen's the max's are 17 in the front and 72 in the rear, and the rear never seems to fail....

The fronts are 7psi, and the rear is 45psi. I fudge to 10 and 50....

So Bob, you never did try the R/1 calipers with the OEM master, and you just cogitated.... :-) OK guys... All I'm trying to do here is save members a few bucks. Whether you go with the 14mm or the OEM it makes no difference to me. I'm out of here....

And you know this because the original OEM's didn't work for you after doing the mod??

Sounds like you had a great trip. Wish I had that kind of spare time to stay out 30 days... :-)

I'm not a collector, but I really liked that show....

I was just thinking about her this afternoon, and wondering how things were going???

By all means if you have the money go for it. However, keep in mind we're talking about a cruising/touring bike, not something that's going to end up on the track. At the risk of repetition, the 14mm is not needed. And... if you want to talk about optimizing the braking system... why not toss on a set of Benbo's?? And also we're not talking about volume, but rather applied pressure.

I remember that discussion too. The point I'm trying top make however is that between the 14mm/.5511" and the 5/8"/15.8mm master there isn't a significant difference to make installing another master feasible on an RSV/TD. Sure if the need for braking is paramount, and the 14mm will perform a tad better, go for it. In comparison between the OEM 2 piston, and the R1/R6's, the 4 piston calipers alone will make a vast improvement over stock... I guess I just feel that spending the extra dollars for something unless it's really needed is a waste of money...

I use a stick type that I bought for my old '73 GMC 4x4... back in '73.. Made by Dunlop in England. It's a quality gauge and still repeatable, and so far hasn't given me reason to question it. These things they're putting out now with the plastic stick are worthless... Oh yeah, I do have an OEM Yamaha dial floating around in all this stuff somewhere. Looks good, but never have compared it...