Condor

I'm not sure I understand the term 'Modulation'. Could you explain? Also I'd like to know why a 14mm master would make that much of a difference over a 5/8th?

Well guess what...here we go again. I've done R1 swaps on three 2ndGens, and one on a 1st MI, and never found a caliper only swap that didn't greatly improve stopping ability. So much so that even thinking that a master swap wasn't considered... I know that many members insist on swapping out the master as well, but I haven't found that to be the case. I do remember one individual posting that the R1's only didn't help one bit, and I contend that he hadn't bled them properly. I also understand that if someone wants to swap out the master that's their prerogative. It's just not needed....

Looked around on the road star website and got tired of looking for the calipers. Do an search on ebay and there's a bunch. MOF here's a nice set of R1's for about the same price. Also did a search for RW Warrior and only found one set and they were about $125. Granted theRSW's had everything while the R1's were only for the calipers, but that's all you need.

I didn't know that... What do the RSW's sell for off eBay???

Started to answer this thread yesterday, but got called away mid-answer, and when I came back I couldn't find it because they don't keep the thing after you've looked at it. Anyway.... R1 and R6 plus FJR's will fit. Blue or gold dot. Here's a couple of pics of the type you want to buy. The first will fit, the second will not work.

Ditto on the E3

Nice idea, but to take it one step farther I'd put triangular gussets in the middle of the 2x8's just to give it a little more support. With the side pieces only attached at the base if something happened... strap break, etc.... there wouldn't be much support to keep the bike upright. I did something similar when I first started bringing stray Ventures home. Only I used 2x4's to form a channel with a 4x4 acrossed the front to keep the bike from moving forward in a panic stop...plus lots of straps. BTW...Very cool looking scoot...

I'm running stock sized E3's....

Not so... Your reply will go back thru CL and be coded when they get your reply... And this can go on forever. The only way they can get your email is if you have your email address in an auto sigline and forget to delete it before hitting send....

I don't understand why everyone doesn't use the CL communication setup when posting a FS: There is absolutely no way a responder can get your email address from a response unless you give it to them.

Here's what I do when bleeding a clutch. Once you have the do-dads on hand it's a 15-20 minute job. And works every time. When trying to bleed a clutch that is completely empty of fluid on a Venture, it’s very difficult…maybe impossible… to get all the air purged out of the lines normally because of the location of the reserve to the slave. Unlike bleeding the brakes where the pressure is built up by rapid pumping the pedal or lever, the clutch does not build pressure. Squeezing the clutch lever has to be done slowly and constantly. Using this method causes the air bubbles in the lines to move down toward the slave with each stroke. During the release of the lever the air bubble rises upward in the line. Air rises. So in effect you end up with these bubbles rising and falling and going nowhere. I seen threads over the years where the owner has struggled for days to get the clutch properly bled. Reverse bleeding is done by forcing fresh DOT fluid into the bleeder valve, and forcing the air and fluid up the line and into the reserve. This can be done several ways. If you have a Speed-Bleeder installed it will have to be removed. If you have a regular bleeder, the reverse bleed can be done with the valve in and open, or you can remove the valve like a speed-bleeder. I find the removal of the valve the easiest. Take a rubber ear wax remover blub that you can find in your local drug store and snip the tip off a little bit at a time until it fits into the threads of the removed valve of the slave. It should fit snuggly and the tip end should be a bit off the bottom of the bleeder hole. Remove all the old fluid from the reserve, if any. Suck up enough fresh fluid to fill the bulb, squeeze any air out of the bulb, and insert it in the threads of the slave and force the fluid into the slave. Keep an eye on the reserve to make sure it doesn’t overflow. Not good. Sometimes you can hear bubbles as they make their way out of the line and into the reserve. If the bulb runs out of fluid it can be reloaded. The hole can be blocked off with your finger while refilling. When no more bubbles appear stick the bleeder valve back into the slave, adjust the level of the fluid in the reserve to about half full, replace the reserve top and you’re good to go. This whole process can be done in about 15 minutes. When done go for a ride. PS: After first opening up the reserve, lightly squeeze the clutch lever a tad. The surface of the fluid in the reserve should deform slightly. Squeeze hard and you’ll end up with fluid on you and the bike. Not good. What this shows you is that the expansion orifice is clear and functioning. If it’s plugged the hot expanded fluid will have no place to go, and start to push on the slave as if you were actually pulling the lever. The clutch will start to slip. This is also why the reserve should be only filled half way. I have seen owners spend a lot of money rebuilding their clutches, and all the reserve had was a plugged expansion hole caused by old dirty crystallized fluid. Hope this helps

It's located behind the lower left fairing. You can find them on eBay for very little money. Usually they are mixed in with throttle cables. Cruise Control Just make sure it's off a fairly recent year and looks like new....

If you have an 8' bed and with the tailgate toabout 10' you should be able to center it up. My problem is it would scare the B-Jesus out of me loading and unloading the bike into a truck bed.. I've seen too many videos of things going wrong, and it ain't fun with an 850# scoot. A ramp gate onto a trailer is a piece of cake, but rigging up ramps into a truck is not secure enough for me.

You're still going to have to fasten it... They make eyes that can be temporarily mounted in the stake bed holes that should work for tying it down.

3M makes an upholstery spray that works really well. With all of the trailers I've owned they all seemed to be 'glued' in. Home depot use to have a grey indoor/outdoor carpet that worked well on trailer interiors...

Don't think the water will do much good. I'd run the green again although I like Purple Power.. Warm it up and then let it sit overnight. Warm it up again in the AM and drain. The stuff is nasty and stickier than all get out. I don't know if it make a big difference but I was running a synthetic blend. Act-evo MC oil. The goop might be different than straight oil or pure synthetic??

It was suggested in my Clymers. I used a very thin coat of Yama-bond on the side facing the pump.. Same on the cover. Pump side.

Ain't that the truth......

Yep, me too!! Pulled the plug in '89 cold turkey. I was a three pack a day man. The first two weeks we had really clean windows and the yard was immaculate... My wife had quit 10 years before, and to this day I can't understand how she put up with me?? Now I can't be downwind of someone who smokes.

Loading bikes onto trailers make for some great.... and hopefully humorous... stories. Good thing it was on flat ground. I can see the trailer... with you and the bike in it... trucking down a sloped driveway.. And no matter how hard you romp on the bikes brakes it doesn't do any good...

Patience and a razor blade. I had a ton of silicon caulk between the cover and the pump body on mine. It came off, but took a while. Just be careful...you're dealing with aluminum and it can be easily scratched.... You don't want to do that to any mating surfaces... I did use a pocket knife for some of the nook's and cranny's...

And no problem with any of the four I have.....

try this link.... http://www.harborfreight.com/1800-lb-capacity-motorcycle-standwheel-chock-61670.html

Actually it does. The two 'ears' cam lock into the other half of the part, and they are made to not come apart. Mine fell out in two pieces.

I've never used one, but one of the problems I found with a similar Harbor Freight chock is that it wants to slide on a smooth surface. With the HB it can be anchored down to a piece of plywood if it becomes a problem. From the design of the Venom I don't think that would be possible. Also at some later date you want to use it on a trailer you may have a problem. The HF's also sell in that price range and can be had on sale for $50. Heck I just bought one for $47, and consider it a steal... I own 4 HB's. Also the HF appears to be more heavily constructed than the Venom.