Condor

Me too... I think it's called Evolution d' Conversation?? Or something like that.. :-)

All ya gotta do is go back and read the first post.... :-)

Nope... Just ALT 155... No plus +... ☼ Degree's = ALT 0176 ° Now here's a possibility?? I'm still running Windows 7 with Chrome. I noticed someone having trouble with 10 not giving the same symbols??

And all I do is type ALT 155 ☼

Maybe someone who's a lot smarter than me can jump in here. I'm not sure why there are different codes for the same symbol?? Years ago I used to use the 3 digit, but then it stopped working and I found the 4 digit and was back in business again. Here's a list website. Why these work and other don't is above my pay scale... http://didyouknow.org/alt-key-shortcuts/

YES....

Now days is ALT 0162 that will work for the ¢ sign.... ☼ this is what you get when you use 155. They went to a 4 digit code a few years ago. Kinda cool..... BTW anyone interested, do a google for alt code. There are a ton of symbles available. Haven't quoted a pic post yet, but thanks Don!!

It's not just this board. It happens in others as well. 'Specially posts of a great multi pic ride reports spread over several posts, and someone will jump in and give it an 'Atta Boy!!' quote, before the author can post again, and the same 15 pics appear all over again.... To quote or not to quote... that is the question??

They are important, but pics in a quoted reply to the original post are a PITA.... Even lots of imocons.... On the flip side, someone who doesn't quote in a long fractured thread, it's not clear what the 'H' post they are replying to.... My 4¢

I scheduled to record a couple of weeks ago. Just finished watching #3, and to tell ya the truth it ended too soon. It was a great production, but right at the end it was a rush to the finish that left me hanging, with a couple of cameos. They could have tacked on a couple more episodes.

Think about this... A V6 based on the V-Max V-4. 2400cc's. FI. Lower torque cams. In a Venture bagger... :-)

I had the two tabs that take the passenger grips snapped clean off on the '91 plus the two forward tab on the frame. Welding took care of the problem. $5 bucks. Never could figure out what would cause that...?? No other damage anywhere...

Old age I guess?? Forgot about scrolling down..... I do enjoy the full screen pics, but folks forget to delete them when responding to a post with a quote...

Yep I've done that a few times myself....

I've always been taken by Brit bikes. That looks so cool..... All black in Arizona??... Yep, find some shade.. :-)

I find the image up load feature to be fairly simple. The only complaint I have is it's one pic at a time. In the olden days we could post multiple up loads in a thumbnail. As far as resizing, it doesn't make any difference what size I upload. They all appear full screen???

This is sort of a complaint. Maybe it's just me, but when someone responds to a post with a pic in it, the pics in the reply aren't deleted and appear again and again in multiple posts.... It would be a simple thing to delete the pic from one's reply or comment, and just post a text response. Even with an atta boy!!.... Some of these topics become so top heavy with pics in my case the comments are lost, and not worth following,,,, I know this will be like herding a bunch of cats... Just wanted to say....

The reason those wires burn is corrosion. The rectifiers are located on the 1st and 2ndGens in a very hostile environment to keep them cool. 1stGen's by the back wheel, and the 2nd's right behind the front tire. They're hit by dirt, water, and some real nasty cr@p. Since the plugs are exposed, the contacts will eventually corrode cause a build up of resistance. Resistance causes things to get hot and the wires will start to decay. Kinda a downward spiral. The best thing that can be done is coat the plugs with a sealant when new, and keep the rectifier fins clean, and they should last a very long time.... My 2¢

The key here is the word 'somewhere' in my last post. You have no idea what I'd have to dig thru in the hopes of even finding that box... :-)

I think that lubing any switch to get it working will cause it to get bound up again in short order. Dust is a given, and it will collect on any oily surface. What I found is a product called 'Blaster', and available at Home Depot. It's a silicon solvent. What happens is the solvent portion will flash off leaving a coating of dry silicon. Dust will not collect on the surface. It's also a cleaner as the name imply s. So rather than taking the switch out of the control housing... Funny story. I tried to transfer the innerds of one housing into the other. It was like a Chinese jigsaw puzzle in there and gave up. Both housings are laying around in a box somewhere.. :-) But I digress. Anyway just blast the dirt out with the solvent and let it dry. Should get it working correctly again... My 2¢

Sure 'nuff, but it has nothing to do with the diaphragm or slide assembly. It has a lot to do with the vacuum that will make the diaphragm work. There are no 'O' rings in the diaphragm slide assembly, and that's what threw me.. However a lot of those tiny 'O' rings get legs and excape captivity. When you find the correct size please post it and their source. A lot of members... who never loose them... would like to know.... :-)

'Nuff on the bikes... Just wanna say that's the best board ID I've seen.

That will work even for a 95 pound woman, but.... for us guys who are horizontally challenged it's tough getting our assets low enough to get under the seat without sitting all the way down on our heels. Tall guys need a friend too..... LOL

I'm lost here... What diaphargm 'O' rings?? Bob you messing with us again???

What's the voltage at the battery above 2000rpm?? If it's under 14.2-3vdc it could be the battery??? or the Rectifier.... LOL....