Jump to content

Condor

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    12,680

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Condor

  1. Condor
    Anybody replaced just the rubber diaphragm on a first gen carb. I have a set of parts carbs and one of the plastic slides/tube has been crushed. From the looks of it the rubber is still fresh. I'm curious if the rubber can be taken off and used on another slide without distroying it???
  2. Condor
    Hdhtr and I ran about 70 miles back up Hwy 395 to Susanville, and we went into the triple digits for the better part of half of it... Dropped the milage down into the city street level.
  3. Condor
    At the last Venture West III there were several scoots that averaged 50mpg +. I pulled 50 up thru the canyon to Susanville and 51mpg coming back after a carb sync. The high milage was mostly in 5th gear and cruisin'... Around town before the sync it sucked gas like a horse eatin oats...but now after the sync it's doing much better.... around 35+ So maybe 50+ milage is nothing more than not twistin' the right hand grip quite as much.
  4. Condor
    I kept searching Ebay for one, but everytime one popped up it went for about what you could pick one up for from Carbtune. So, i finally said to myself... screw it and bought one direct from the UK. Took about 7-8 days to get here. Good luck on finding a used one at a good price .....
  5. Condor
    I don't even own a 2Gen, but that was a very cool article.....
  6. Condor
    I'm just wondering if you have a new plug that's bad and not firing when under a load. Rattle and shake sounds like your dropping a cylinder. I can roll on my 83's from the low 1500's in 4th or 5th, and like Randy they're both smooth all the way up to redline. When you blip the throttle at idle, do you get a slight shake??
  7. Condor
    I've heard about PAM being used on the front of motorhomes to make the bugs easier to remove. Got to thinkin'....dangerous.... Why wouldn't spraying pam on the fork tubes be good to keep them from drying on the tubes and screwing up the fork seals??? I don't have any fork protection on the uppers and when doing a long ride I can see dried bug juice on the tubes, and it's like cement. I'm gonna give Pam a try on the next ride. Should make the stuff easier to wipe off??
  8. Condor
    Great idea Rick. I'm gonna have to try that.
  9. Condor
    All VR's had integrated brakes and '83's did not have the bleeder valve up on top of the left front brake line loop as they did in later years.
  10. Condor
    Unless they had an 'Old Guard' mechanic around they probably wouldn't know, and would do it just the way you've been doing it... If it came in the bag it could be assembly lube?? Now that I think about it I believe my rebuild caliper kits did come with a lube for the piston cup O rings. I got in my head that you were refering to the master.... Ya gotta be careful not to use anything synthetic, or you'll be doing it over again.... Synthetics will attack the rubber seals and the assembly will seize up tighter than a frogs behind... don't ask me how I know that.... The best thing to use when putting everything together is good old DOT 3.
  11. Condor
    I tried a Mighty Vac without much success. Went to Speed-bleeders and that seemed to do the trick. Mushyness could be either air in the lines or the lines are expanding. When the lines get old they have a tendency to do that. And it differs with each bike. I have 2 '83's and one is really solid and the other is mushy. Same bleeding technique. I think one's got weak lines.?? One other way to make sure that air is gone is try reverse bleeding. Force the fluid into the caliper and take it out of the reserve. It's the only way I can bleed the clutch.... I didn't get any with my rebuild kits. Air will also get trapped in the high part of the front line up around the triple tree. Later models have a bleeder valve up there for that reason.. I'm not sure what the pink goo is. Are you sure it wasn't something that came with the pads??
  12. Condor
    I'm kinda partial to the Odyssy 680. A little expensive going in, but in the long run it works out to be less.
  13. Condor
    Just yesterday while wandering around Sam's Club I ran acrossed a display of heating gismos. The whole package ran around 10 bucks, and there looked to be a bunch in the box.... anyway the label read good for 10 hours of warmth. I'm wondering if it might be a good thing to buy a box of them and keep a few in the scoot for those 'unexpected' cold snaps we get out here on the left coast???
  14. Condor
    Yeah, it is a slow one huh? I started to get it but after 20 minutes and only having 14megs saved I gave up. With a warp speed connection I just don't have any patients any longer.... If they ever get a faster connection let me know.....
  15. Condor
    Still think it's the ignition advance not working on the older bike. Lack of power and low MPG is usually indicative of that.
  16. Condor
    Could also be a spark advance vacume sensor that isn't functioning.
  17. Condor
    Buddyrich is the one to talk to on this one. I don't think he has a tungston bulb left on his scoot.... MOF I think he's posted before about using inline resisters??
  18. Condor
    OK Scott, you're right on and I'm just plain dumb... I just got off the phone with AVON and the tire is not a Radial. I could have sworn that when I discussed the tire for warantee they had said it was. Anyway getting back to the danger part, they were non-comittal. They just stated that it was against the law to run radials with biased plys. So I'd like to apologize to all, and want to say...listen to Scott, forget about what I said.
  19. Condor
    Maybe not for you younger 2ndGens, but the Venom X I'm running on the front of my 1stGen is a radial. Venum X, AM41, 120/90-18 71H A.T9R. :cool10:
  20. Condor
    Yep, tag you're it.... The Venom on the front is a radial, and the load bearing Venom on the rear is biased ply. Right now I'm running a venom on the front and a Dunlop Cruisemax on the rear. No problems with handling....MOF the handling is great. I wonder what it will be like when I get the back Venom on??.....
  21. Condor
    Interesting light. I was going to redo my tail lights with a couple of amber and a red, but The $49.95 retail price each jolted me back to reality....
  22. Condor
    Before you go replacing the whole clutch you need to check a few things first. #1, what type of oil are you using. #2 when's the last time you bled the clutch, and did you get all the air out of the lines?? #3 does the clutch slip right away, or after the engine starts to warm up? There are quite a few things that can cause the clutch to slip, and replacing the disc's might not be the answer.
  23. Condor
    Thanks for the tour recommendations Geo. I gotta get up to your neck of the woods in the future. I had planned on doing Alaska by Ferry on the scoot in a couple of years. These would make some nice side trips...
  24. Condor
    If you want to insure that galvnic corrosion will not be a problem between SS and Aluninum, coat the screw with anything that has silicon in it. What this does is create a barrier..silicon contamination.. between the metals and ions will not transfer. For galvcanic corrosion to occur, all you need is for the two bare metals to be touching. Don't confuse Galvanic corrosion with Electrolysis which basically is the flow of electrons between anode conductors.
  25. Condor
    Yep...seen that happen. The rear end seems to be OK... not black or discolored or even making noises.. , but changing the lube is on the 2do list.
×
×
  • Create New...