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Condor
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Everything posted by Condor
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That may be true, but I might also add that I have a set of brake and clutch masters that when hooked up should mimic the stopping power of the RSV. I also have a left side caliper that looks like it'll work as far as fit goes. Maybe I'm breaking new ground here?? I sure looks feasable, and was hoping that someone might have gone there before???
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Just curious. I'm thinking about replacing the front and rear calipers on the '87VR with some off an RSV. Has anyone ever done this before, and will they work with the 87 rotors or do I need to replace them too. I like the design of the 2 piston free floating calipers on the RSV's...
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7 hours with a 3amp charger is about right on a batt that is rated at 25-30 CCA's. The charger prob'ly went into the green at about 80% charge. Those inexpensive 'dumb' chargers will never charge to max as they continue to drop voltage the closer a battery gets to max so they don't ever quite get there, and those that have a constant voltage and are designed to maintanin a battery generally only put out around 12.9vdc. which isn't enough to charge anything to max. If you can fire up the scoot after it hits the green, then take it for a ride at 3,000+ for about half an hour. If the bike charging system is functioning properly it'll be topped off. Then go figure out what caused the battery to go dead.....
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I put a hotlink http://crystal-glo.com/usa/bike/ in a previous thread. Sounded like the real deal, but you right, I think I'll hold off a do a little more research.
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I really didn't get into it with them that much. Only that it does dry faster. I bet the middle of the summertime and pushin' 90+ degs didn't help matters any either?? I wonder if going to a regular can of clear and mixing in a flow agent might help a bit?? Buffing is also an option, and yeah I've had lots of practice... However..... I'm still going to pick up a can of that Crystal-Glo and give is a try. It just might save a bunch of elbow grease...
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Acrylic Laquer....
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Mark- Actually I'm using Acrylic Laquer, and it comes in a can so I can't screw up. I've been laying on about three coats and sanding between each coat, and then putting on the clear after the final sanding. I'm using Tempo spray paint that's designed to match OB motor colors. I liked Evinrude Metalic Charcoal after doing a couple of lower legs and decided to go that route for the '93 since it was a houge-pouge of different colors after replacing a lot of the fairing. I'm actually very pleased with the outcome...all except the matte finish. So I'll give Crystal-Glo a shot to see if it works. Attached is a pic of the fairings.
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Speaking of shine...glad ya'll brought the subject up... I painted the front plastic on the '93 last summer, and when I put the clear on I expected to see a nice wet look shine to the finish. Not so. The clear dried in a matte finish. I talked to the auto paint outlet here in town, and they said that's what you get with acrylics, and to wait 30 days for the paint to totally cure before buffing. I've seen this Crystal-Glo advertised in a few places and thought I'd give it a try on one of the smaller pieces. Anyone else ever used this stuff???
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Listen....Eck, I have a piece of this bridge I'd like to sell you....
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Your right Brad, it is a nitch market....with a player on every corner. One of these days one of them will discover that putting out a quality product at a fair price will eventually garner a lions share of that market. Right now, what I see, is a group of manufacturers staying small in sales volume because they're afraid that if they become more competitive they'll starve. Combining smart manufacturing with smart merchandising, someone will eventually start to market a trailer selling at a price more representative of it's real value. I hope it's sooner than later...
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Brad- I'm sure that if you built the box out of FRP, built the frame, and bought the axels and accessories from a distributor at manufacture cost, you could have put the trailer together for half that amount. As far as R&D, there's not much to it. Design a box style out of ply and mold styro and splash it, or even build one by the stitch and glue method. That's where your major design difference is. All the rest is available from parts suppliers. No hard feelings, but a 'one of' cost can't be compared to the in work of a manufactured unit. Apples and oranges.
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With all the competion around for new trailers you'da thunk that there'd be a price war. Maybe that'll happen, I see quite a few of them starting to post on Ebay. If they don't sell there, they might have to get real...or starve....
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I thought that only happened with boats..... They must think we're all riding over priced Harleys....
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What in Gods green earth makes these small tow behind motorcycle trailers so cotton pickin' expensive? Major manufactures have these things priced up in the same area as a full blown 6X12/14 tandem axel enclosed trailer. No way does it cost anywhere near what one of those would cost to build. And the scarry thing is.... folks are actually spending the long green to buy them. i know there are cheapies out there on the market, but I'm talking about the Bushtec's, ION's, ZZ's etc. When one of these things is priced at 4 grand retail plus shipping and they are selling direct it really makes me wonder..... I come out of the boating industry and no way does is cost that much to lay one of these things up in fiberglass, and that much in labor and material to finish one off....
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Yep, they want you to bring it in and then give you a list of things that they found wrong and needed attention..... at $80 bucks an hour. Had one dealer told me the rear end in the Suburban looked like it had water in it and needed new seals etc. I asked him to show me the oil. Not even a drop of water had gotten near that oil...I know I'm in the boat business and deal with it all the time. Granted it did look like it needed the lube changed... That's all he should have said. Last time I'll go there. Gotta watch these guys....
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Most dealers are getting up there in their hourly rates. Around here I've seen a couple at $99 bucks, and a lot of that probably has a lot to do with what they are paying out in benifits. At $80 the dealer was probably charging you for half an hour plus parts...oil, filter, etc. Gets expensive taking any vehicle to a dealer any longer.....
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Shameless plug. I have a couple of 1stGen items posted on Ebay. Thought I'd mention them here to drum up a little interest. CHIN SCOOP and LEFT SADDLE BAG Hope I'm not stepping on any toes with this.....
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It may not have gone into route mode, but actually lost the signal for a brief period. If you're between buildings, or under trees, anywhere it can't 'see' the satalites it won't know where you are....even if you do.... Ain't it fun??..... Did you tell it where 'home' was???
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The Zumo is certainly a great package. Should be lots of fun telling you where you are....even when you're not....
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The c340 has a larger screen and smaller footprint, but the 2820 has bluetooth capabilities. I think I'd stick with the c340 unless you plan on going wireless in the future??? JMHO....
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I wan't refering to the volume vs psi increase, but more about the moisture content of the air. If it's like my compressor in the garage it makes water faster than the old one armed paper hanger....
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Yep, that's one way to do it, but the stuff is cheap enough fresh that it might be more convient to go out and buy it new?? And it seems like every new camera, VCR, DVD, has a pack of the stuff inside. I have them floating all over in the desk drawers.....
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Great info on nitrogen vs tires. Saved me a few bucks... This is a little off subject, but it still raises the question. How does moist air effect the front and rear shock performance? Maybe that's why us 1stGeners have compressors that require the silacagel to be renewed every few years?? And how many of us have actually done it??? Maybe this should be in another thread???
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Bill- You might try tapping on the bowl with a light hammer to see if the valve frees up, or if that doesn't work try pulling the fuel line and running some Sea Foam directly into the bowl and let it sit over night. I don't know your rigging habits, but if the scoot sits for long enough periods of time where the fuel evaporates out of the bowl it could leave enough residue on the needle to cause it to stick.?? -Jack
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Thanks for suggestions. Since the one slide was cracked I went ahead and tore it apart just to see what I'm dealing with. Got the rubber separated from the flanges without messing it up, so it's good to replace a bad one. And even as bad as this carb set looked..(double ugly), as suspected the diaphragms are all like new. So just for the cost of the diaphragms I'm doing pretty good.... When I tried to push the slide back in the second carb body it stopped about half way. When I removed the diaphragm cover the assembly fell apart. So now I know what causes that problem. It's rubber also was in perfect condition. I'm learning all kinds of interesting stuff. Just cleaning and zip bagging all the parts for the time being, but when the smoke clears I should have a couple of rebuilt sets available. i'll keep you posted on how things turn out.
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