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Condor
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Everything posted by Condor
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Shameless plug. I have a couple of 1stGen items posted on Ebay. Thought I'd mention them here to drum up a little interest. CHIN SCOOP and LEFT SADDLE BAG Hope I'm not stepping on any toes with this.....
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It may not have gone into route mode, but actually lost the signal for a brief period. If you're between buildings, or under trees, anywhere it can't 'see' the satalites it won't know where you are....even if you do.... Ain't it fun??..... Did you tell it where 'home' was???
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The Zumo is certainly a great package. Should be lots of fun telling you where you are....even when you're not....
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The c340 has a larger screen and smaller footprint, but the 2820 has bluetooth capabilities. I think I'd stick with the c340 unless you plan on going wireless in the future??? JMHO....
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I wan't refering to the volume vs psi increase, but more about the moisture content of the air. If it's like my compressor in the garage it makes water faster than the old one armed paper hanger....
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Yep, that's one way to do it, but the stuff is cheap enough fresh that it might be more convient to go out and buy it new?? And it seems like every new camera, VCR, DVD, has a pack of the stuff inside. I have them floating all over in the desk drawers.....
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Great info on nitrogen vs tires. Saved me a few bucks... This is a little off subject, but it still raises the question. How does moist air effect the front and rear shock performance? Maybe that's why us 1stGeners have compressors that require the silacagel to be renewed every few years?? And how many of us have actually done it??? Maybe this should be in another thread???
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Bill- You might try tapping on the bowl with a light hammer to see if the valve frees up, or if that doesn't work try pulling the fuel line and running some Sea Foam directly into the bowl and let it sit over night. I don't know your rigging habits, but if the scoot sits for long enough periods of time where the fuel evaporates out of the bowl it could leave enough residue on the needle to cause it to stick.?? -Jack
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Thanks for suggestions. Since the one slide was cracked I went ahead and tore it apart just to see what I'm dealing with. Got the rubber separated from the flanges without messing it up, so it's good to replace a bad one. And even as bad as this carb set looked..(double ugly), as suspected the diaphragms are all like new. So just for the cost of the diaphragms I'm doing pretty good.... When I tried to push the slide back in the second carb body it stopped about half way. When I removed the diaphragm cover the assembly fell apart. So now I know what causes that problem. It's rubber also was in perfect condition. I'm learning all kinds of interesting stuff. Just cleaning and zip bagging all the parts for the time being, but when the smoke clears I should have a couple of rebuilt sets available. i'll keep you posted on how things turn out.
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Anybody replaced just the rubber diaphragm on a first gen carb. I have a set of parts carbs and one of the plastic slides/tube has been crushed. From the looks of it the rubber is still fresh. I'm curious if the rubber can be taken off and used on another slide without distroying it???
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Hdhtr and I ran about 70 miles back up Hwy 395 to Susanville, and we went into the triple digits for the better part of half of it... Dropped the milage down into the city street level.
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At the last Venture West III there were several scoots that averaged 50mpg +. I pulled 50 up thru the canyon to Susanville and 51mpg coming back after a carb sync. The high milage was mostly in 5th gear and cruisin'... Around town before the sync it sucked gas like a horse eatin oats...but now after the sync it's doing much better.... around 35+ So maybe 50+ milage is nothing more than not twistin' the right hand grip quite as much.
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I kept searching Ebay for one, but everytime one popped up it went for about what you could pick one up for from Carbtune. So, i finally said to myself... screw it and bought one direct from the UK. Took about 7-8 days to get here. Good luck on finding a used one at a good price .....
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I don't even own a 2Gen, but that was a very cool article..... -
I'm just wondering if you have a new plug that's bad and not firing when under a load. Rattle and shake sounds like your dropping a cylinder. I can roll on my 83's from the low 1500's in 4th or 5th, and like Randy they're both smooth all the way up to redline. When you blip the throttle at idle, do you get a slight shake??
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I've heard about PAM being used on the front of motorhomes to make the bugs easier to remove. Got to thinkin'....dangerous.... Why wouldn't spraying pam on the fork tubes be good to keep them from drying on the tubes and screwing up the fork seals??? I don't have any fork protection on the uppers and when doing a long ride I can see dried bug juice on the tubes, and it's like cement. I'm gonna give Pam a try on the next ride. Should make the stuff easier to wipe off??
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Great idea Rick. I'm gonna have to try that.
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All VR's had integrated brakes and '83's did not have the bleeder valve up on top of the left front brake line loop as they did in later years.
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Unless they had an 'Old Guard' mechanic around they probably wouldn't know, and would do it just the way you've been doing it... If it came in the bag it could be assembly lube?? Now that I think about it I believe my rebuild caliper kits did come with a lube for the piston cup O rings. I got in my head that you were refering to the master.... Ya gotta be careful not to use anything synthetic, or you'll be doing it over again.... Synthetics will attack the rubber seals and the assembly will seize up tighter than a frogs behind... don't ask me how I know that.... The best thing to use when putting everything together is good old DOT 3.
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I tried a Mighty Vac without much success. Went to Speed-bleeders and that seemed to do the trick. Mushyness could be either air in the lines or the lines are expanding. When the lines get old they have a tendency to do that. And it differs with each bike. I have 2 '83's and one is really solid and the other is mushy. Same bleeding technique. I think one's got weak lines.?? One other way to make sure that air is gone is try reverse bleeding. Force the fluid into the caliper and take it out of the reserve. It's the only way I can bleed the clutch.... I didn't get any with my rebuild kits. Air will also get trapped in the high part of the front line up around the triple tree. Later models have a bleeder valve up there for that reason.. I'm not sure what the pink goo is. Are you sure it wasn't something that came with the pads??
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I'm kinda partial to the Odyssy 680. A little expensive going in, but in the long run it works out to be less.
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Just yesterday while wandering around Sam's Club I ran acrossed a display of heating gismos. The whole package ran around 10 bucks, and there looked to be a bunch in the box.... anyway the label read good for 10 hours of warmth. I'm wondering if it might be a good thing to buy a box of them and keep a few in the scoot for those 'unexpected' cold snaps we get out here on the left coast???
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Free Shop Manual for the 06 Venture
Condor replied to PGunn's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Yeah, it is a slow one huh? I started to get it but after 20 minutes and only having 14megs saved I gave up. With a warp speed connection I just don't have any patients any longer.... If they ever get a faster connection let me know..... -
Still think it's the ignition advance not working on the older bike. Lack of power and low MPG is usually indicative of that.
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Could also be a spark advance vacume sensor that isn't functioning.