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Condor

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Everything posted by Condor

  1. Condor
    Well I took 83#2 out for an afternoon run to check out the gas milage. 83#1 was...no is.... getting 50mpg, and I've been leaning towards it for the trip to Ft Collins even though #2 runs stronger. So anyway after logging 68miles of a mix of 20% city and 80% highway at around 65-75mph I find I'm getting 41.5 mpg with #2. Not to shabby. Here's the deal. Both bikes need a little attention before taking off. #1 needs the dash pulled and gone thru. Dash lights, CPU resolder etc., but has progressives, all new clutch, and all new brakes. #2 has a leak in the rear shock somewhere and is not holding pressure, and second gear is just starting to jump/skip but if taken easy second can still be used. I will be pulling a Piggy Backer. I've got to make a decission soon in order to start rigging the hitch and doing the wiring. I'm not any good at last minute to-do's. Whacha think???
  2. Condor
    The biggest cause of a battery going dead before it's time is letting it discharge over a long period of time. A battery life is rated for just so many charge cycles... Most wet cell batts usually are built to discharge 50% at somewhere around 200-300 cycles. Anything greater than 50% discharge, and the battery will die even quicker. In other words if you only discharge a battery 5%, and then bring it back to full charge, you will get 2000-3000 cycles before it gets worn out. If you discharge a battery 50% before recharging you'll only get 200-300 cycles before needing to replace it. Even when a battery sits for a long period of time it will loose charge. If I remember correctly it's around 10% a month. 5 months and it's down to the 50% discharge, and you've lost 1 full cycle rating. Let it drop more than 50% and the useable cycles drop like a rock. The best thing you can ever do to keep a battery happy is keep it fully charged when not in use. Use a smart charger and trickle charge it when it sits...even for a month. That said the Odyssey with it's dry cell technology takes ratings to a new level..... my 2¢
  3. Condor
    Good info Randy. I'm going to go spray something with Plasti-Dip, let it dry according to directions, and then drip some gas on it to see what it does.... I'll report back.....
  4. Condor
    Wow!!! If I weren't using ethanol fuel I'd be getting 60mpg instead of the 50 I'm get now.... Maybe that's why my mufflers steam and drip water so much when I first fire it up??? I have my own water injection system...remember those pre-NOX gimics....? Leave it to the government to screw up things even more than they have already. I think I'll go buy a can of dry gaz and put it in just because.....
  5. Condor
    Russ, the studs arrived this afternoon. Many Thanks..........
  6. Condor
    Sea Foam will make everything spic'n'span, but I don't think it will act as a catalist between water and ethanol'd fuel.
  7. Condor
    I just got thru reading an interesting article in one of my boat mags about the use of ethanol added fuel and water. California being one of those states that require ethanol laced fuel brought the article close to home. It might also apply to your state as well. Apparently Ethanol attracts water and octane is actually increased because of it. As long as the gas/ethanol/water stays mixed. The problem occurs when the H2O content rises to over 3% by volume. Then the water will seperate from the fuel/ethanol and settle to the bottom of the tank. Lots of ugly things can happen when it does. Poor running conditions to plain stalling, rusting tanks, loss of octane are a few. It you are storing your scoot over the winter months it might be prudent to keep the tank topped off...reduces air circulation...and use a dry gas product to keep things mixed. It's something I'm going to start doing......
  8. Condor
    I'd suggest just getting them tatoo'd on for a permanent fix....
  9. Condor
    I've been using Liquid Tape for years on all of my marine electrical wiring, and it does seem to last forever. Just recently Lowell (LAprior) mentioned a product he tried on his diaphrams. Plasti-Dip. I had a couple of manifolds that were starting to develope hairline cracks so decided to give the stuff a try. Toddled on down to our local Home Depot and bought a can of spray...yep it comes in a spray can as well as liquid.... I cleaned off the offending manifold with alcohol and sprayed it over the cracks. The stuff actually filled the cracks and when it dried the cracks were gone. Neat stuff. I think the stuff is miss-named as it's actually a rubberize compound that stays flexible. I'm going to give it a try on a couple of diaphrams, but from what I've seen it should be great. One nice thing is that it coats the entire surface of the diaphram and it sort of rejuvenates everything against future holes developing.....
  10. Condor
    What's one more or less.
  11. Condor
    Russ...How much more do you need?
  12. Condor
    Same thing on the second '83 I bought. No clutch...no brakes. Bled them and the stuff that came out looked like Kayo Surup. You sure can drive a hard bargain when you run into one like that.....
  13. Condor
    There's an I.E. 6/7 utility that you may already have. Right click on the pic file and see if there's a resize option in the pop-up menu. If not I think you can download and install it from the MS site. I remember Don having a link to it pre-crash. Maybe he still does. Works really slick. Right click, resize, and it will give you a smaller file version and leave the original intact. Here's a link...i think... RESIZE
  14. Condor
    'Bout every 3000 miles. Really helps the cornering in reverse....
  15. Condor
    I had problems the first time I tried too. Then I found that if you scroll down past the message box of your post there is a manage your uploads area. Click on that and it'll allow you to browse you pic files and pick the ones you'd like to upload. Sometimes the file may be too big and not get accepted, and in it will need to be resized. Once the files are uploaded close the tool and submit your post. Hope this helps...
  16. Condor
    Should be the same 8125L Rick. I forgot about that one....
  17. Condor
    I donno, I've been playing with Stainless and boats for a very long time, and taking a hacksaw or drilling into stainless will cause you to work up a sweat. Perhaps it is softer on the nobility scale than high carbon stainless, but I think you'll find Yamaha doesn't use high carbon bolts in their motorcycles because of it's being brittle and rusting at the drop of a hat. I think you'll find that they use a hardware grade that's below stainless in composition, and closer to aluminum on the scale. Stainless in the 304 to marine grade 316 or 316L will cause galvanic corrosion if left in contact with aluminum over an extended period of time and untreated. I treat all stainless hardware with silicon whether it's in a short or long term application... My 2¢....
  18. Condor
    Carry your cell phone..and stay on the interstate...
  19. Condor
  20. Condor
    I used to run a 175watt bi-linear in my pick-m-up. You'll need a stator that puts out a heck of a lot more amps than what we have now. They will get out tho-. Talked to Queensland Australia while mobile from central California when the skip was in, the dash lights would pulse when modulating, and it could be dangerous if the antenna were touched. Where do you think they came up with the name 'FireStick'.....
  21. Condor
    I wouldn't use them either, but if you are, silicone lube will form a barrier between the aluminum and stainless and stop galvanic corrosion.
  22. Condor
    Just sent the $14.00 to cfas@juno.com Thanks.
  23. Condor
    Let me know what you need for the 10 Russ and I'll paypal you the $bucks.
  24. Condor
    I gotta take my hat off to you Bill.... you're one tough hombre'.
  25. Condor
    Put me down for about 10 of those miniature trailer hitch balls. Nice item to have extras of....
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