Jump to content

Condor

Expired Membership
  • Posts

    12,680
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

Everything posted by Condor

  1. I donno, I've been playing with Stainless and boats for a very long time, and taking a hacksaw or drilling into stainless will cause you to work up a sweat. Perhaps it is softer on the nobility scale than high carbon stainless, but I think you'll find Yamaha doesn't use high carbon bolts in their motorcycles because of it's being brittle and rusting at the drop of a hat. I think you'll find that they use a hardware grade that's below stainless in composition, and closer to aluminum on the scale. Stainless in the 304 to marine grade 316 or 316L will cause galvanic corrosion if left in contact with aluminum over an extended period of time and untreated. I treat all stainless hardware with silicon whether it's in a short or long term application... My 2¢....
  2. Carry your cell phone..and stay on the interstate...
  3. I used to run a 175watt bi-linear in my pick-m-up. You'll need a stator that puts out a heck of a lot more amps than what we have now. They will get out tho-. Talked to Queensland Australia while mobile from central California when the skip was in, the dash lights would pulse when modulating, and it could be dangerous if the antenna were touched. Where do you think they came up with the name 'FireStick'.....
  4. I wouldn't use them either, but if you are, silicone lube will form a barrier between the aluminum and stainless and stop galvanic corrosion.
  5. Just sent the $14.00 to cfas@juno.com Thanks.
  6. Let me know what you need for the 10 Russ and I'll paypal you the $bucks.
  7. I gotta take my hat off to you Bill.... you're one tough hombre'.
  8. Put me down for about 10 of those miniature trailer hitch balls. Nice item to have extras of....
  9. I've found that 83#1 will give it's best mpg at around 3500rpm in 5th gear (50mpg). Around town, dealing with stop and go's, and 1st..2nd.. and maybe 3rd it sucks fuel like a horse eatin' oats. I haven't taken 83#2 on any long trips yet, so I can't do a comparison, but around town it's actin' just like #1. So I guess it's keep the rpm somewhere around the middle of the band, keep the speed steady, and stay in 5th gear, or always go downhill.... My 2¢
  10. No, but after they've done their job you could always wrap them around the fuel line and get a 'hundred miles a gallon,.... :rotf:
  11. Thanks JR, I'm gonna have to give that stuff a shot. Funny thing. On the '87 the bad diaphram I replaced with the NOS is the one that isn't giggling when the throttle is blipped. The rest are doing great. I thought I'd checked to see if there were any leaks before putting it in....guess I didn't. I'm going to get this thing running right yet!!
  12. This is an interesting thread as I have several carb sets that will need to be patched. Replacing with new is out of the question for someone whose pockets are fairly shallow. I did pick up an NOS OEM diaphram off Ebay a while back for $32 bucks, but I'd really like to know where we can find them for $35!!
  13. I was pitched by a salesman at the local Beemer shop last year when HDHTR, BuddyRich, and I dropped by to take a look at Jackets. I think?? it ran around $14 bucks... I can't even tell you if it's the one everyone is recommending as I didn't pay any attention to the brand... Just bought it and went out and zip tied it to the center stand of the scoot. Tossed the bag...
  14. That brings up a thought.... What about those frequency emitters that change Red lights to Green?? The type the police and fire use to get thru intersections.. Didn't I see them sold somewhere?? Or was I just hallucinating again???
  15. I have one on '83#1 and am getting hung up at stop lights a lot less than '83#2, which doesn't have one, so I guess it must be doing what it claims to do???
  16. Been running Speed Bleeders on 83#1 for over a year now, and posted info about them to this forum way back when..pre-crash. 8125L's fit everything on a 1stGen. Even on the anti-dives, and clutch. Makes life much easier. I found that the long tip will fit... OK under the clutch slave rubber. The reason for the longer tips is it's easier to get a seal on the bleeder bag I picked up from them....or any hose for that matter. There isn't a clearance problem on the 1st Gens. BTW the bag is 6 bucks and is reusable. I just store mine in a zip lock bag because it does get a little contaminated after using a few times.
  17. I don't know if this will resolve anything, but I found this page which deals with speed codes toward the bottom..... http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/rules/TireSafety/ridesonit/brochure.html
  18. I heard someone mention 'Goof Off' as doing a nice job??
  19. Thats kinda what I thought when I ran into the PiggyBacker for $300, after thinking about doing the HB bit. Nice little unit, and why have something expensive sitting around 51 weeks out of the year. Your's is one up with the swivel hitch.
  20. All right, who's going to the Bike Swap in Amherst on the 31st??? Interesting site, lots of Harlet parts in classified...
  21. infared thermometer and it's really cool. Point it at something you want to test for temp and it reads off the red laser dot. What this have to do with a motorcycle you ask? Well, I thought that I could check the temp of the exhaust headers to see if all the cylinders were firing equally. Could even find a dead or fouled plug if needed. Haven't tried it yet, but will the first chance I get. I picked up the unit from Harbor Freight a local discount tool store for about $21 bucks after a 15% discount coupon. It's fairly small and will fit right in with the rest of the things in the tool bag.
  22. The PC680 is the one I and everyone else seem to be using Vance.
  23. OK, no contest here Bruce, I'm always willing to learn. Where did you find out that the Odyssey was actually an AGM. I'd like to read the article, look at the test, or view the pics of an Odyssey cut in two maybe?? After asking West Coast directly if the batteries were indeed an AGM I was told that they were definately not. That's my source. Odyssey doesn't just refer to them as 'dry', but refers to them as a DryCell design. How do they get away with that?? Sounds like false advertising to me if what you're saying is true...
  24. Sorry Bruce, but your buddy doesn't know what he's talking about. AGM's aren't new, they've been around for 15+ years now appearing in the early '90's, and Odyssey's are not gels. They are a dry battery. I suspect that they might be akin to a rechargable lithium, but don't quote me, and the Odyssey is the new kid on the block, not the other way around....
×
×
  • Create New...