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Condor

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Everything posted by Condor

  1. Condor
    OK, I heard back from MAC and the group pricing will be the same. To make things easy it'll be $225 sitting on your doorstep.... unless you live north of the boarder, then It's $235. The break out is $195 plus shipping. So if anyone would like to get in on this go-around's list of 10 feel free to chime in. As soon as we get ten we'll start working gathering the funds together and placing the order. The last time around it went off with out a hitch so I don't see much of a problem since we have all that experience..... You can also follow the link in the first post to get an idea of what they'll sound like. From all the reports I got back from the first group we hit a home run..... #1 CALPERIN #2 Cdnlouie #3 TJON #4 tiny84 #5 HI TRUCK GUY #6 Vicco27 #7 Backroads #8 Richard #9 PEIslander #10 kbert777
  2. Condor
    And I agree with Randy...........
  3. Condor
    If it's just dirty it might be cleanable, but if it's ugly and rusted a new one runs around $70 bucks, and for the difference between new and a rebuild kit, new made more sense. When I replaced mine I bought the new one from www.buckeyeperformance.com. Also don't discount that a previous owner may have asssembled the clutch wrong. ...PO's are notorious for doing that... It's what happened to me. I fianlly went back to ground zero and put it together by the book and It's worked great ever since. And ya gotta take the middle gear cover off.......
  4. Condor
    Have you ever had the 'rods'... I like to call 'm rods... out? If you can get the lever to move using the bleeder valve and the rods aren't moving then I highly suspect the slave is bad. Or.... The reason I asked the first question is that there are two push rods and ball bearing between them that the slave, on the other side of the engine, pushes on. They have a rounded end and a flat end. The flat end goes against the ball. If you put them in with the round side against the ball they will bind.
  5. Condor
    Hmmm?? With that few miles on it, does it slip in 4th and 5th right from the git-go, or does it take a while before it starts?? Have you bled the clutch lately? Also when you last changed your engine oil what type did you use?
  6. Condor
    Take the presure plate off again and then try to gently squeeze the lever. If moves easily then the plates are binding. Possibily a tab is hanging in the channel. If it's still hard to move your slave could be bad due to rust and sitting. There may be other things, but that seems the most logical right now.
  7. Condor
    Bob, and all, Thanks everyone for the feedback. I think I'm going to go back to square one on this and just use the original rim and rotor. I thought I could maybe do this 'pit stop' style, but if it's going to be a hastle swapping things out, I'm going to be lazy about the whole thing.....
  8. Condor
    Basically it's forcing the DOT 3 or 4 up the clutch lines from the bleeder valve, thru the slave, and into the reserve. Since air will rise in the lines, it's almost impossible to force the air down thru the lines, thru the slave, and out the bleeder valve. There are several different ways to accomplish reverse bleeding, but they all do the same thing. i.e. force the fluid from the bleeder valve up into the reserve. With a standard OEM valve you can just loosen it, attach a clear plastic tube for a visual, and use what ever method you can conger up as an injection tool... Everyone seems to have their own method for this. I personally use a rubber ear bulb, but since I have a speed bleeder installed I have to remove it. With the top of the master reserve removed start forcing fluid into the lines, being carefull not to force so much in that it overflows the reserve bowl. You can actually hear the air bubble out. It won't take long, but once no more air can be heard, lock down the bleeder valve, make sure the reserve level is OK, and you're good to go.
  9. Condor
    David, What you're seeing is the old protective laquer finish that's yellowing with age.. It can be removed. I understand 'Goof-Off' works pretty good, although there are other products that work as well. Afterwards the finish can be left as is or buffed to a hi-gloss finish. Juwt depends on how much elbow grease you want to invest in your scoots appearance.
  10. Condor
    All of the above, and.... it could be low fluid or air traped in the master. Do a search for reverse bleeding of the clutch. I had that happen a couple of times, and reverse bleeding was the only way I could get the dang thing to start working.
  11. Condor
    Me Too...............................................????????????
  12. Condor
    OK, I thought I'd post this AVI bite of what the MAC's sound like on my '83. It's a little better than the first. I was originally looking at Sept. as a date to start another list, but figured what the heck. So if anyone want's to be added, and we get another group put together, I'll put in another order when we hit the magic number of 10 or more.... I'll have to check with MAC on pricing since it's been a while and edit this post with the details. See below....
  13. Condor
    Will an 86-93 rear rim and rotor fit on an 83-85 Venture, and also without having to change the rotor if it does?? I have a '88 rim and I thought it might be easier to take it down to the local bike store and have a new VenomX I have mounted on it and then do the R&R on the '83 all at once.
  14. Condor
    If you're talking about that strap with about five holders in front of the dash panel, Mine were pretty useless looking so I just let the relays hang.... the wiring was pretty stiff anyway??
  15. Condor
    It has been a while Dick. MAC doesn't offer the straight or slash cuts for 1stGens any longer. As far as attaching the stock turn down tips, the MACs are already turned down. So clean up your old OEM tips and sell 'm on Ebay.:cool10:
  16. Condor
    Looks like you've taken care of most of the buzz, but you'll probably never get rid of all of it. There'll always be some unless you get the engine and drive train blue printed, and I'm not sure that would get rid of it 100%.... You might think about foam grips if you don't already have them?? Try new plugs just because. If one cylinder isn't pulling like the rest it could cause a vibration. Oh yeah... and Sea Foam the 'H' out of it.....
  17. Condor
    Thanks for the insight Mike. Another piece of info that's going into my bag of tricks.....
  18. Condor
    I think the tabs you're asking about are for the booster foot pads for kids etc. Here's a pic of one off HDHTR's ....... I had the yens for a set until I found out they are rarer than chicken lips, and the couple that have appeared on Ebay went for tons.......
  19. Condor
    It's all supply and demand. If they're still available maybe you can pick one up from a dealer. Or wait until another shows up on Ebay and hope it goes for less.
  20. Condor
    Here's one on Ebay from an '88. OWNERS
  21. Condor
    I'm running qn EII on the back with a VenomX on the front.... Rides great.
  22. Condor
    My '83 did the slow start a couple of times when hot, and then I removed the front air dam, and it hasn't done it since. I removed the dam because I planned on installing the newer plastic style, and it looks like maybe keeping the front of the motor cooler has helped....maybe not???
  23. Condor
    Yep...... Although they make a product called Plasti-Weld 2345 that could very well be acetone?? that's clear and thin that will melt the plastic in the seam and give you a fairly clean joint. Use the MEK (pvc joint glue) on the back side with fiberglass roving to make a stronger repair around a tab.
  24. Condor
    Super glue will never work on ABS plastic. Go to the hardware store and pick up some PVC pipe glue. It will chemically weld the joint together.
  25. Condor
    Red or Gold Tim? I know I have a gold, and I think?? there's a red out there also....
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