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Condor

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Everything posted by Condor

  1. Condor
    Last year at VWIII we had a Shell Station acrossed the street from the Susanville Best Western. Most of the riders filled up there, and that's when I was getting the 50mpg out of the '83. I think Rich-99 and I also bought fuel at a Shell on the way up to Susanville. Anyway... since buying gas at any station to Ft Collins and back my milage has dropped into the high 30's and low 40's. Gotta get back on the Shell band wagon. For the little difference in the price I'd rather go for milage.... at least give Shell another try and see what happens....
  2. Condor
    Clogged portioning valve??? When you bleed the left front are you getting fluid thru the caliper? Or like suggested above...big air bubble in the system....
  3. Condor

    2006 RSV For Sale

    Condor replied to a topic in Watering Hole

    Geeze Jim, We're looking for folks to get more active in NorCal and you gotta go get gimpy knees... Hope things work out and you find a buyer. And I wish I were independantly wealthy.....
  4. Condor
    I've never had to do it, but if I remember correctly, Mike... aka mbrood, used compressed air with success to clean things out. Remove the banjo bolts at the slave and at the reserve and blow back toward the master. Wrap a towel around the banjo at the reserve to keep things from getting messy.... After getting the lines cleaned try reverse bleeding the system. I personally think it's the best way to get air out of the lines. Others like to gravity bleed, but this is my take. Air always want's to rise in the lines. My mildly pumping the lever or gravity bleeding the movement of fluid is to slow to force a bubble down and out the bottom bleeder. For straight bleeding purposes, where the lines are airless, it's great, but forcing fluid into the slave at the bottom purges the air in the direction it naturally want's to go. It's quicker and easier. Once the lines are clear, gravity flushing works the best. My 2¢.... again...
  5. Condor
    You're right Squeeze, but in this case it doesn't apply. The slippage is heat generated.
  6. Condor
    As long as the seams are water 'tight' I'd spray the 'H' out of it with Thompson's Water Seal instead of painting....
  7. Condor
    Joe. I went thru the same thing you are about a year and a half ago. Had me talking to myself, and I was about ready to pop a .45 cap into the bike. Here's what's going on with yours. Believe me I know.... There's absolutely nothing wrong with your clutch. If it performs as it should when it's cold, it's OK. THE PROBLEM IS as the clutch fluid expands when your engine starts to get hot, AND HAS NO PLACE TO GO, it will start to apply pressure to the slave and the slave will starting applying pressure to the clutch just like it would if you were pulling on the lever, and you're going to slip big time. A couple of things can cause this. The first is your reservoir is too full, and there is no place for the expanded fluid to excape to. The second is the fluid level is OK, but the expansion relief hole at the bottom of the reserve is plugged. This is commonly caused by crystals that have formed in the clutch hydralic lines, because old fluids haven't been changed on a regular basis. If you haven't already checked the hole opening it's time to do it. If you look at the bottom of the reserve there are two holes. One is big enough to actually see the piston movement. The other, just forward of it, has a very tiny hole at the base. The only way you can really tell if it is open is to gentle squeeze the clutch lever and you can see the surface of the clutch fluid deform for just an instant as the fluid squirts out of the hole before the piston passes it. Do it hard enough and the fluid will squirt all over your scoot's fairing. Not a good thing.... If the hole looks like it's plugged it can be cleared out using the wire from one of those wire ties you find in the produce section of the super market. Strip the paper off and use just the wire. If it does it again you'll need to clean all the clutch hydralic lines. Hope this helps, and if it doesn't PM me. Otherwise, how much you want for the bike????
  8. Condor
    OK, I just received a call back from MAC with some info on where our mufflers are in the whole scheme of production. They have 6 sets built and are now waiting on materials to complete the last 4. I've been given an estimate of another 2 weeks. If this presents a problem for anyone send me a PM and I'll see if we can get a partial shipment, but I'd really like to do this all at once.
  9. Condor
    TJON dropped me a note asking about the progress of the muffler order, and I thought I'd post an update here so everyone would know. I just checked with MAC and they are going to give me a call later today on the order status. There in manufacturing somewhere and as soon i receive word I'll post it here. They originally quoted 2 weeks, but you all know how that goes.....
  10. Condor
    That is Great!!! A job well done....
  11. Condor

    new jacket

    Condor replied to silvercrew's topic in Riding Gear

    I picked up a Fieldshear mesh and wore it to and from Ft Collins this year. I got very toasty in both directions, but the worst was the trip home hitting 105+ acrossed Nevada. With the sweat wicking off thru the mesh it was a bearable trip, and the jacket is black.... Just had to guzzle lots of water... Why Fieldshear? It was affordable, and in my size on Ebay. Came with a nice liner which I actually wore in the early morning up in Idaho, but shed when getting to Wells. I'm sure one brand is a good as the next, whether the brand is a buzz word/status symbol or not. Just make sure that it provides adiquate protection, and the fit/style is for long distance riding. Generally if the arms are shaped and it has armor the folks that made the jacket have done their homework.
  12. Condor
    Wow!! Doesn't make sense that they would have changed it, but here's another piece of Venture lore we need to be aware of. I guess if anyone plans of replacing their clutch cover they need to make sure the replacement comes off a 'fits all' 1300 engine.......
  13. Condor
    It was my impression that the 1stGen clutch covers were all the same from 83-93 1200/1300. Then ran acrossed this item on Ebay. CLUTCH I can't believe that yama-mama changed the cover in any way, but here's a seller that says the one he just bought on Ebay doesn't fit. Whatcha think???
  14. Condor
    Short burps is exactely what I did Jeremy. No overspray, but like I said it might have been dumb luck... I think after I posted this 'technique' the last time, GeorgeS, who was tearing apart speedo's at the time, couldn't see any reason why overspray would occur...but that's just hearsay.... since i've never had the time, inclinatiion, or curiosity to tear into one.
  15. Condor
    i had the speedo 'moan' on my '83 last summer. Only did it on cold mornings. I found success in lubing it by removing the cable from the sheath and then holding the wheel end of the cover above the level of the dash, slightly filling it with a mix of WD40 and Super Lube, and using compressed air to get it up into the speedo. It worked, but I'm sure dumb luck had a lot to do with it. When i swapped out the dash panal for a cleaner unit the first thing I did was to make sure the newer speedo was properly lubed. BTW to remove the dash cover go in through the signal lights with a long phillips screwdriver to loosen the two side screws. Once the cover is off it's fairly easy to get to the cable.
  16. Condor
    Gotcha......
  17. Condor
    Could be a lot of different things. Boost sensor, plug wires, fouled plugs, valve clearance, holes in the diaphrams, restricted air filter, bad coil, etc., etc. Sorry Adam, I wish I could help you more, but partial loss of high end power could be caused be several things. Have you changed the plugs and plug wires yet? Run Sea Foam thru the carbs??
  18. Condor
    Rejetting is the only way you can lean out the top end...
  19. Condor
    It's already started. Read the 2ndGen Tech section sometime. They're just in denial........
  20. Condor
    A few of the '83-'85 owners have converted their headlight assemblies over to the 86-93. Most of the stuff can be found on Ebay. Upper frame assembly, and light assmbly. i thought about it, and then went ahead and installed a set of aux. driving lights. No more problems with lighting things up at night.
  21. Condor
    Nice guy to know.... i was hoping that they might still be available. At least I know they existed and I know one when I see it.
  22. Condor
    Todd, where'd you pick up that set up??
  23. Condor
    Ya know, when I did my clutch a year ago, I had all kinds of trouble getting the thing not to slip. Put all the right stuff in, and it still slipped. In my case, here's what caused and cured the problem. The rods and ball from the slave to the throwout bearing were in wrong, and they were binding in the thru tube. If you take a real close look at the ends of the rods you'll see that one end is rounded and the other tip is slightly flat. The flat end goes against the ball.... If you install the rods with the rounded end against the ball the rods will bind and not allow full compression of the discs. It's an easy thing to happen when rebuilding the clutch, and I don't think I've ever run acrossed mention of it in the manual. Just a thought.....
  24. Condor
    Rick you might have a slotted hole on the muffler hanger that will allow you to drop the muffs a bit. http://www.venturers.org/NextGenTech/2ndGen/images/after/railleds.jpg Also which bars did you inherit? From the Diamond R website there looks to be two different styles??? http://www.diamondraccessories.com/prodthumbnails/tn_newlightbar8.jpg http://www.diamondraccessories.com/prodthumbnails/tn_ledbagraillightbar1.jpg
  25. Condor
    Nope... but not because I'm a bright candle, but because a couple of the bulbs were burnt out when i redid my dash.... actually the only one burning was lighting up the tach... so I went ahead and replaced them all... For the most part those bulbs are burning when ever the bike is running....day or night. Got to thinking about it, and all the posts on resoldering the module, and had never seen a post about the bulbs. So thought I'd toss the suggestion on the table....
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