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Everything posted by Condor
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Interesting concept Don. I'm not sure the 'spin' the company puts on Radiated heat isn't a little biased. I remember having a camp heater that was radiating, and one side was hotter than h and the other side froze....but the walls were warm... It was great if you were on a spit..... From a health aspect a radiating system seems to be better than convection, and has merit. I didn't get into the part about reduction of heating costs, but the simple rule is the cost is directly related to the source of the energy used for heating, and unless you can tap directly into the sun there ain't no cheap energy. I think a better way to look at saving money is to insulate. If your home is fairly new you probably have everything insulated to the max, but if it's an older home there's always ways to improve heat loss.
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Yeah, Odyssey ships two different ways depending on which is the most economical. I thought they were all going via USPS. A few went UPS. My bad. I should have looked at the invoices closer. Glad you got it OK.
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I'm not rigging much of anything Chuck. I am always looking for a good deal on sails because it's how I make my living. I've bought spinnakers in the past off Ebay and done very well on the resale end. My current boat is a 27' Lancer Motorsailer, and it's rigged to the nine's... I just thought the MC logo on the spinnaker was really unusual.
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I don't know of any other place that sells Speed-bleeders other than the website. 8125L= Long, 8125 standard. I think you'll find that the seal on the threads will loose it's integrity, and will need to be re-'tefloned' after extensive use. As far as leaking, the speed bleeders at their worse are better than the OEM bleeders at their best. When Speed Bleeders are tightened down they seal exactly the same as the stock bleeders.
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Rocket, I went with the 8125L's on the '83 to give me something to get the tube and an 8mm wrench on at the same time, even on the slave. The rubber slave cover bulges a bit on the top....
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Even though the original intent of this thread wasn't what has developed, I think it's been great so far, with folks offering up their opinions, and stories, and I hope it stays that way. There are so many facets of the term 'gun control' that there will always be borderline disagreements as opinions overlap. I hope the disagreements don't cause a 'for and against' atmosphere to develop, and multiple 'yes but' posts to start. Respect for another's opinion, even if you don't agree, creates a debate. Nit picking starts arguments. My 2¢
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That's good advice Todd. I've been in that area so many times that to me it doesn't seem to be much of a hastle getting to it, and I'm really glad because the '91 is leaking somewhere up inside there... I hope it's the rod seal.... and laying down a smoke screen. Whew!! When ever any of us pick up a new2us bike, the first thing that should be done is change all the fluids, engine, clutch, braking, final drive, no matter what shape the bike is in. Unless the P.O. can supply you with service records to the contrary, don't take his word for it. Consider the bike in dire need of service... I think the boiling problem would have been cured by just using fresh DOT3. Synthetic is an alternative, but in my mind's eye an extra expense that's not neccessary. Of course, if syn3 won't absorb moisture, and is compatable with the seals, in the master and caliper, maybe I'll give it a shot???
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Saw this while looking for sailboat spinnakers on Ebay. http://i1.ebayimg.com/06/i/000/d3/3b/039a_1.JPG
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Rebuilding the clutch master can't be any messier than one that's already leaking ... Actually it's not all that hard. the only pita in the process is getting the internal c-clip keeper out of the cylinder so you can remove the piston. I finally made a tool that will get down inside to get it out. There's a pic attached...if I can find it..... OK I couldn't find the good one, but here's a pic of a small needle nose that I reworked the tips on. I filed them down and put a notch in the end to keep the clip from disappearing over the horizon. It worked very well. The problem is that the piston shaft takes up so much room that it's hard to get anything down in there to compress the clip. I bought a set of mini-pliers at Harbor Frieght for about $5 bucks, and the long needle nosed was skinny enough to get in there.
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Park the scoot, buy a 45 foot cruising sailboat and circumnavagate. Sell the boat, grab the scoot and move to Muleje Baja Sur, fish all day:parrots: and drink cervesas all night......
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And that's exactly why clutch and brake fluids should be bled every year.... I think that once synthetic fluid is used it's very easy to get complacient, with a false sense of security, and forget about bleeding, putting it off for longer periods. But.... for added info just what synthetic do you use that's compatable with the DOT 3 systems?? On a clutch master rebuild one time I used a synthetic as an assembly lube on the cup. 24hrs later the cup had melted and stuck to the cylinder wall. Had to do it over again from scratch and those rebuild kits aren't cheap...... Very leary about synthetics....
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In the past I've owned 5 of them..........
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Wow!! I've never heard of that, and don't have the cajones to keep a bike at 100 for an hour.... Dude!!. I use regular DOT 3 in the '83, and ran it for 6-7 hours in 105+ deg. temps last July:scorched:... at 75-80mph... with the temp guage right below the red zone, and the clutch never missed a beat. Clutch fluid will expand, and cause the clutch to slip if there's too much in the reserve, or the expansion hole is plugged, but boiling fluid is scary!!
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LOL... Yep, I towed mine back home behind a F250 4x4 Pickup because the shell was to low to get it in the bed. Never saw the thing for 30 miles.... I bet it was a sight going down the freeway
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USPS Priority.... Your's went out on the 22nd Barry. If you don't get it by monday let me know and I'll send out the dogs.....
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I paid $300 for my Piggy and it was never used. If the money isn't there then make a low-ball offer you can afford.... Ya never know?? My thinking is pay as little as possible for something that's going to take up storage room, and only be used a couple of times a year. It doesn't make sense to spend 3-4 grand or even $1000 for a trailer and have it sit in the back yard most of it's life, or taking up room in the garage. I know that a lot of owners like to have everything tricked out and lookin' good, but I'm one that could care less for a couple of weeks a year, just as long as the bikes clean.... and the trailer does it's job when I need it to. Beside building your own, the Piggy Backer is the best thing since sliced bread...
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Looks just like a 1stGen to me.... Nice Bike Kit.....
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And I've had them up into the triple digits without a hint of wobble. You may have an alignment, or frame problem.
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- conti-tour
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Generally a wet cell battery will go about 3 years. It all depends on how many discharges your giving it. With the reverse on the Wing a new battery might not last as long.... just depends on how many times you use reverse.....
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I've talked to the powers to be at Odyssey and they say that the non MJ will be fine in the 1stGens. If you call and talk to the secretary she'll go by the book. But common sense tells you that if they doen't need the MJ for the 2ndGen, you won't need it for the 1st either. The PC680 and the MJ have been back ordered until next April, so picking one up from the Ebay seller for $103 delivered is a pretty good deal if it's a fresh battery since that price is less than the 2006 dealer cost for the PC680MJ. We'll probably do the group buy again sometime in late April.
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I bought a black Piggy backer, and then went out and then bought a bike to match it??? Is there something wrong with this picture??.....
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You might want to check your mailbox Mike.... They were shipped via USPS Flat Rate Priority from Odyssey on Tuesday the 22nd. It generally takes around three days to make it coast to coast. Weather may be a factor in slowing it down a bit, but if you don't get it by monday give me a shout.... :)