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Condor

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Everything posted by Condor

  1. Condor

    5:50AM

    Wow!! Did the system hic-cup. Got a data error message when accessing the website???
  2. http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/cdl_htm/lic_chart.htm Not sure if it's even legal to do that with a non-commercial class A license. I'd check with your local DOT office.
  3. I'd agree with Fred except for your discription that the back of the engine was covered in oil. Therefore..... .... I'd have to put my money on the rear valve cover gasket.... but that's still a guess. Take a can of carb cleaner and wash off the back of the engine and then get in there with a strong light... a mirror reflecting sunlight really lights things up... and if it's leaking as bad as you say you should be able to locate the source.... Hopefully....
  4. I have an 88 frame that looks the same as your 84 with the gussets. I think I'd look into getting the thing bead blasted to remove all the rust, and as long as you're at it look into getting it powder coated. I'm not sure how the p-coat would hold up to dribbling DOT 3, but it gotta be better than the OEM finish. Replace the bearings and races and anything else you can think of while it's naked....
  5. I picked up a Whistler... of radar detector fame.... from WOOT for $200 last year and they just offered another GPS for $109 a couple of days ago. GPS's show up all the time. They don't have all the buttons and whistles that a ZUMO would have, but they're pretty informative. The only thing I find annoying with the Whistler is the non-existant screen in bright sunlight. I cured that problem with a home made shade.
  6. Condor

    Very bad song

    Guess you're in a pickle on your motor-sicle..... Heck I liked it.... in a funky sort of way.....
  7. I'm 6'6" and my '83 has a stock 22" shield that I have no complaints with. Eye sight is just over the top edge and I can duck down a bit to look thru the shield. My 91 came with a wider shorter 18" shield. I haven't had a chance to ride it enough to give an opinion on the comfort level, but so far so good. Just can't duck down below the top edge. I don't have a passenger to worry about as all my riding is one up.....
  8. Still toying with the idea of doing the same thing Don. We have a 1.5 acre view lot up in the foothills that a log home would be perfect on. http://www.lindal.com/homes/techcenter/homebuildingsystems/lindallog.cfm
  9. That is about as creative as it can get. Love it!!!
  10. Condor

    awareness

    My last post with a video I copied the embed URL link off the youtube site, and it came out the same way. After just coping and pasting the link out of the address bar into the post it worked fine. Go figure...
  11. OK Synpower.... I don't use it. but I may the next time around.....
  12. I thought of that too George, but figured the rider...'specially big ones... cause more drag then the bags.....
  13. Pete- First I was going to butt in and then thought the better of it.... and then said wht the hell.... Before you go into a major rebuild of your clutch, and this has been discussed many times on the board before, bleed the clutch and check to see if the very small opening (VERY IMPORTANT) in the reserve is clear. You can change the discs..:mo money:change the plates rebuild the master change out the fluid, and the clutch will still slip because..... when the clutch fluid heats up and expands it can't get back into the reserve with a plugged expansiion hole and it will start to apply pressure on the clutch push rods and it will be the same thing as squeezing the lever. The first place the clutch will start to slip is in high gear at high R's. The load on the clutch isn't as much in the lower gears. As the fluid gets hotter it'll get worse. I suspect that because you're riding in very cold weather the fluid isn't expanding as much as it would in the hotter summer months. It doesn't cost anything but a can of Dot 3 to bleed the clutch...and the brakes while you're at it. This is the first thing any new owner should do when buying a new2them bike. After this if it still slips break out the wallet....
  14. Condor

    Hey Condor

    Thanks for the pics Todd. I like the zip tie mount. I'd been thinking about drilling and tapping a couple of holes in the riser, but I think I like the tie idea better.
  15. I think for short distances it might work, but I don't think long hauls it would be too good. I not sure there would be any damage to the drive train, but there's a lot of stuff still moving up to the clutch, and the scoot is sitting at an odd angle... I donno???......... On the side to side issue, I think the 'tire well' is deep enough to keep it stable. Just tie it down. And what is the weight rating. Figure about 60% of the weight of a 1stGen being supported....
  16. YEP!!
  17. Back on 3/4 I picked up a 1srtGen dash panel from a guy on Ebay. VTCustoms/Anthony Alfieri . The dash was discribed as in 'good condition with 14K on the Odo. Here's a copy of an email I sent to the seller after it arrived. The email bounced, and it's the same address that shows in the paypal details for the transaction. Tony, Just wanted to let you know the dash panal arrived OK, however it wasn't anywhere near your discription of 'good condition' that one would have suspected from a bike with only 14K miles on the ODO. One of the mounting posts on back of the shell was broken off and missing and should have been very easily noticed when you removed it from the bike. Probably damaged in the accident. Lots of rust on the electrical connections. Someone was also inside the housing, as a large piece of speedo back light plastic was broken off, and there's no way that broken piece could have gotten out. There was also electricians tape and caulk/sealer in a couple of places on the inside. Bottom line is the dash was not in any condition to be of use as a complete unit. So.... disappointed? Yes, but I'll go ahead and keep the dash and chalk it up to experience. I've owned and worked on over 5 Ventures, and will just rendeer the dash down into parts for the shelf, and toss the broken and rusted stuff. I suggest in the future you be a bit more up front with your discriptions and with the pictures you take. So, I'd suggest that if any member of this board is considering bidding on an auction by VTCustoms to be very carefull. I'm going to resend this email via Ebay and see if it goes through. I've bought a lot of stuff off Ebay and this is the first time I haven't received what I expected...... Just an addition. I fianlly did get a response from the seller via my Ebay message board with his apologies and an offer to return for a refund, but by then I had already taken it apart and bagged it. His email address is still not functioning.
  18. Thanks for the technical info Squeeze and the performance results Bigin. That's what I kinda suspected. Even with all the tweeking and twisting over the years there's very little difference between them. .2 sec and less than 1 mph. Put some weight on either one and it's gonna loose in a match race on any given day. With the added low end torque of the 1300 it probably would make a slightly better bike for trailering and handling weight even with the extra 32# as the extra 8 horse is close to a 10% increase of horse power. Where I'm going, and maybe turning this thread back to topic is that replacing the 1200 with the 1300 might be the best way to go. Cost and performance wise.....
  19. Nah, not confused, just wanted more than hear-say about what makes them faster like everyone seems to be saying. I'm getting the impression that an '83 owner might have started the rumor??? and everyone picked up on it and now it's considered fact....but no one can say for sure. I'm just trying to get to the bottom of the story..... Fact or fiction. I did find a report on the 1200 and 1300 bikes but they failed to give a 1/4 mile time on the 1300, just the 1200 at 12.69/103.92. I can see where the 1300 may be slower due to the bikes weight and load capicity, even with the extra 7hp, but if a 1300 were stuffed into a 1200 frame, would it be faster yet???
  20. Here's something I need to ask. Why is the 1200 faster than the 1300? The 1300 is a couple of ponies more, should have the same top end, but I keep hearing that the 1200 is faster. Why is that?? Is it gearing? Weight of the bike?? Camming?? What??? Since just about everything in the motor is interchangeable, I'd really like to know what the story is....
  21. Getting older 'n older....Zzzzzzzzzzzzzz.............................____________
  22. The only difference is that the passenger seat is wider on the 86 and up. Personally I'd wait for a later model to show up.
  23. Just keep the R's up coming out of 1st, and you may be able to get a bunch more miles out of it. Lug it down in 2nd, where it starts to jump out, and you're asking for things to go bad. Also when shifting, don't be bashful and let the dogs chatter before engaging. It causes the dogs to round off. Shift it quick and positive.
  24. I used Valvoline MC 10-40 in the winter, and 20-50 in the summer, with no complaints except the price at my local auto parts dealer. Since I'd heard so many good things about Rotella 15-40 I decided to switch over last summer. Buy it at Walmart for about $8 bucks a gallon.... about half the price I was paying for the Valvoline. So far so good.....
  25. And anti-freeze will smoke white like crazy if it gets into the cylinder. You might try a shot of Sea Foam in the engine oil to loosen up those rings and scrappers. You might also just have a lot of condensation in the crank. Have you changed the oil and filter yet???
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