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Condor

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Everything posted by Condor

  1. Condor
    Nothing. The metal jacket was added for those big Vtwins with lots of vibration, as they were causing a few battery cases to seperate. Odyssey assumed that because our's were V4's they would fall into the same shaky catagory so they recomended the MJ for our bikes. When I explained that ours don't come close to producing the same motion as a VT they said the standard would be fine. The jacket is nothing more that just that... a jacket placed around the standard housing. If you pry the jacket off you'll find a standard battery.
  2. Condor
    I thought that now would be a good time to start another group buy, and called Odyssey to check on pricing, I just got off the phone with them and everythings a go, however they are out of stock on both the PC545 and the PC680, but they expect to receive a new shipment the first week of May, so the timing's right. We still need to get 10 members.... or more. PC680, PC680MJ http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc680_sm.jpg For 1stGens, the Odyssey is PC680. Your price each to your doorstep will be $110.00. Be aware that this is the non-metal jacket battery. I discussed the application at length with Odyssey , and they reiterated what they had said in the past about not needing the heavier MJ version for our 1stGens, but if anyone would like one of the PC680MJ's the price will be $121.00 to your doorstep. Also take note that the batteries will be fresh, and haven't been sitting on a dealers shelf for an extended period of time. PC545, PC545MJ http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc545_sm.jpg For 2ndGens the Odyssey is PC545. Your price each to your doorstep will be $104.00. If you'd like the PC545MJ (Metal Jacket) it will be $118.00 Payments are to be sent via Paypal to paypal@cast-aways.com Batteries will be drop shipped directly from the supplier, except for those batteries going into Canada. They'll be bluk shipped to me and then shipped from here. There will be a shipping surcharge for those batts shipped to Canada. I'll probably do the same thing as the MAC's which seemed to keep the cost down, and be agreeable with everyone. The prices work out to be Dealer cost plus $20 bucks to cover shipping and paypal charges. The last time I charged $15, but I ended up loosing about 4 bucks per battery. So this time I'm covering my rear... Canadian shipments will need to be adjusted once I get one here to do a shipping estimate. If you have any questions, or see something that's missing from the above please PM me. Jack
  3. Condor
    Yep, the 'born on' date is located on the top lable by the negative (-)anode. There's a white area with the battery serial number, and right under neath is the 4 number manufacture date. i.e. 1207= 12/2007. Anything purchased lately will be extremely fresh as the wholesaler is constantly out of the PC545's and PC680's. Both regular and Metal Jacket. I'm thinking about doing another group buy on the Odyssey's very soon. I just checked and they expect another supply of batteries in the first week of May. Of course they've said that before, and the batteries showed up sooner than expected..... I'll post the group buy info in it's own thread.
  4. Condor
    The onus is on the guy that bought the bike. If he'd have looked into shipping a little bit more to find out how the bike would have been prepped and stored, and bought insurance, there wouldn't be a problem. If it's the same bike, and was shipped cheapest way, then he has no one to blame but himself. The sad part about it is it could have been prepped and shrink wrapped for way less than what it's going to cost him to repair the damage.
  5. Condor
    Somebody swapped out the bikes. That chrome chin fairing in the pic is from an 83-84. It won't fit an 86-93. Did you take any pictures of you 86 being loaded??? OK, my bad. I see by the pic in your gallery that you had one of the early chrome chins installed. Must be using the earlier crash guards...
  6. Condor
    About the only place that might possibily happen is in St Maarten. Other than the up close and personal landing and take offs, I can't think of any other place it could occur, and any body kite surfing in the approach needs his...or her head examined.... [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAfQwDizpRo&NR=1]YouTube - 747 Landing - St.Maarten[/ame]
  7. Condor
    That's catchin' air big time.......
  8. Condor
    Invite them to frequent this board if they want ideas and opinions.....
  9. Condor
    I don't know where they come from Squeeze. Maybe it's where all those insane Gremlins that get caught by guardian bells go to die.??
  10. Condor
    Shoot? You're no fun.... :) The only difference between the 5 and the 10 micron hole (example) would be that larger particles would pass thru and reduce the possibility of brakes locking up and clutches slipping due to fluid expansion, rather than the hole plugging up with the tiniest particle. And it seems that this problem is quite common with our bikes, right next to reserves that are over filled. The next time I get into rebuilding a brake master I'm going to modify an extra one by enlarging the hole and install it to see the effect...if any. That said, nothing beats regular fluid changes, to keep clutch and brake systems happy......
  11. Condor
    OK Squeeze, I'm open to learning something here. Let's say for discussion that the OEM opening of the hole is 5 microns and we opened it to say 10 microns, and since hydralics doesn't occur until the lip of the cup moves past the hole, what would the difference in hydralic movement be with that little difference in hole size??? Also remember that the edge of the cup only retracts just past the opening when at rest, and sits in front of the fluid supply hole. So the piston cup edge only has to move slightly before the hole is closed off and hydralic action occurs. I personally think that the difference would be very little, but perhaps there's something I'm overlooking??? I understand that Honda actually has a larger hole and puts a baffle over the opening to prevent fluid from going airborn....
  12. Condor
    Squeeze, over all, the effective compression seal of the piston cup, with an expansion hole a couple of thousandths bigger diameter would be insignificant. Now granted the bleeding process might get a little more messy due to the increased flow of fluid out of the hole on the initial piston stroke....
  13. Condor
    I'm wondering..... and that's dangerous... Why is the master expansion hole so damn small. I would think that it could be made a bit larger and microscopic 'grunge' wouldn't plug it up. I understand that the hole is a potential wear point for the piston cup, but maybe a couple of thousandths bigger would git rid of the rear brake lock ups and clutch slipage, and still not cause premature wear????
  14. Condor
    OK... what ever you say...................
  15. Condor
    What ever you say.... Good Luck.. After writing the above smart ass response I want to go on record that apologies by me are due. I misread 'square seal' as 'squeel'. And you're right they due include a packet of assembly lube with the kit. However, I stand by my statement about removing the pistons one at a time, and most of the folks who know way more than I do seem to agree. If you want to take a chance and mix them up go ahead. As far as cleaning out the cavity of the caliper, a good wash out with brake fluid by filling shaking and draining will suffice. Blowing air thru the cavity from just one of the cylinders will also help blow crystals out the bleeder valve. Using 0000 steel wool isn't going to hurt a thing. As far as residue from the wool creating problems because it'll rust, give me a break. The caliper and piston are steel.... it all rusts given the chance. Further more wiping off the cylinder walls and washing the opening out with brake fluid and blowing out with air, will remove what little of the fillings remained. Using anything harsher than 0000 and hatching the walls can cause premature seal wear. Educated... I don't think so.
  16. Condor
    That's got you name written all over it Squeeze. Go for it.....
  17. Condor
    Interesting... I just wish they gave more specs on the power train. I also noticed they emphsized filling it up at home a lot, but didn't see them address a cross country trip. The price at $15,000 after rebates seems do-able, but I still didn't see anything about what you got for the money. Is it just a fiberglass shell around a 600cc bike??? Yes, it is green, but how much focile fuel electrical energy did it take to compress the natural gas, and I didn't know that natural gas could be liquified economically?? And it IS classified as a trike motorcycle.
  18. Condor
    Geeze I gotta say something. You won't be chasing 'grunge' from one piston to another. Cleaning up cylinder walls with fine 0000 steel wool, and wiping them down afterwards with a clean towel, isn't going to push dirt anywhere, and any contaminents in the caliper will come out when bleeding. As far as using the packet of anti-squeal to lube the pistons to make it easier to assemble, that stuff is a silicon sealant/caulk. Put it on the piston before assembly and they'll lock up tighter that a frogs ass once it sets up. Fair warning.........
  19. Condor
    Might as well do everything including cleaning the reserve.... Also check the expansion hole and make sure it's not plugged. As far as removing the pistons, it's too late now, but remove and service them one at a time. I cut a piece of oak the thickness and width of the caliper opening with one side cut out to let one piston come out and the other three to stay in. Then just by rotating the wood I can 'burp' one piston at a time. Keeping the others in and makes it much easier for the compressed air to do it's job. It also helps keep from mixing up the pistons so they go back into the housing in the same hole. That may be the reason your piston is hard to get back in. Also the pistons don't just slip back in, you need to apply pressure with a large pair of channel locks. Sorta 'massage' them back in. After your successful getting your rear brakes back amongst the living, bleed the brakes once a year. The reason your pistons froze up in the first place is the moisture in the brake fluid caused rust to form on the cylinder walls, and the pistons to seize. Rusty cylinder walls are a biatch.... Bleed 'm once a year and you won't have this problem. Remember, piston movement when applying brakes is only a couple of thousandths of an inch, and only adjust out as the pad wears. The pads don't retract but 'float' just off the surface of the rotor. Hope this helps.
  20. Condor
    I sleep in until 7:00EST every morning.....
  21. Condor
    Heck, hold it sometime in September and you might get a couple of NorCal riders? Sorta planning on a trip into Canada via Seattle around that time....
  22. Condor
    I found this on the web. http://store.valueaccessories.net/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1447 More chrome!!!!
  23. Condor
    Yep, it's to spread between the pistons and the pads to eliminate any squeeling....
  24. Condor
    This is just a suggestion, but why don't you just replace the peg with a ball stud. I picked up a few studs from Black Owl last year, and they are a perfect fit. You can get them from http://www.mcmaster.com/ part #9512K73. All you need to do is drill a 11/32 hole in the peg housing, put a 5/16th nut and flat washer in side and screw the stud in. The stud has a hex base so you can snug it down with an open-end. It take less time than I'm taking to type this. No muss, no fuss, no bother. The stud is stronger than the original.
  25. Condor
    Scott. I'd be interested to hear how it works out. At 6amps it should charge. I generally use one of the multi volt smart charger's that appeared on the market a few years ago. Charge at 2vdc AGM and it takes 2-3 hours to top it off at 13.4vdc. When you have it hooked up and charging I'd be interested in what the voltage output is....
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