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Condor

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Everything posted by Condor

  1. I thought I'd replace the bearings in the front axle before the trip to Idaho in a couple of weeks. I'm curious as to what type of B6303 bearing I should use. Brand?? Sealed?? Unsealed?? Deep Grove?? US..Japan..China??
  2. It's been a couple of years since I installed a set of Progressives, but the metal spacer tubes are replaced by the PVC preload spacers. There are washer/cups in the ends of the metal tubes that will fit in the ends of the PVC spacers. Use them. Otherwise you'll chew up the ends of the plastic spacers. I'm not sure what you're refering to when talking about the 'O' ringed pieces, and leaving them out?? The only 'O' ringed part I know of is the aluminum cap, and you need it to seal the forks. They're a ***** to get back on but the forks won't work without them.
  3. DON"T TIGHTEN THE BOLT!!! It doesn't do a darn bit of good, but will cause the bolt to snap.... and then you will have problems..... Snug is good. The lock nut on the back side will keep it from loosening up. A little play at the end of the sidestand is normal. Sloppy is not, and it's generally not the bolt, but the pivot flange on the frame that's worn.
  4. I donno JB. I didn't do anything to the '91. I actually removed an SB, that fit kinda sloppy, and replaced it with one of the newer black braces that also fit loose. However I didn't have a problem with the screw and hole alignments in either case. BTW, that spacer is about 1/2"-3/4" thick, and would definately put a bend in the tubes if the axle was torqued down without it. But like I first posted, it's strictly a stab in the dark....
  5. I justhadathought. Maybe, the P/O forgot to make sure the spacer was there and torqued down on the axle before noticing that the spacer had gotten legs?? Ergo, Knocked Knee'd?? Just a wild stab..
  6. Sounds like you finally got rid of the slappers JB. Good on ya. I can't think of why your fork tubes were 'knocked knee'd', but that may have been a lot of your problem. When I mounted that SB you sent me on the '83 it sorta oozed on, and the holes lined up perfectly. When I put one on the '91 it was a bit sloppy going on, but the bolt holes still matched up exactely where they should be. I never did take a good look at the difference between the Mark I and Mark II tubes...if any, but there's gotta be some because of the anti-dive's being different???? Anyway, glad it's working out.
  7. Depends on the outside temperature, but probably not. My '83 runs up close to the red but the fan doesn't kick on in 100+ deg weather. I'd suggest checking the thermostat. Does it run hot in cooler weather? If so it's time to start checking things out. Also there's a by-pass valve in the thermo housing below the radiator that may be set in the wrong position. It normally has the top of the lettering pointing toward the five oclock position. You might also try adding water wetter to the coolant. I tried some last year on the Colorado trip. I don't know if it helped, but it didn't hurt. Also on the '83's the impeller on the water pump is plastic, and have been replaced as needed with a metal impeller. If the vanes are dammaged..old age.. you're not getting enough circulation.. Hope this helps.
  8. Rode to Ft Collins and back, 3000+ miles with that set up. No problems....
  9. Me Too..... MOF the thing came without the piece of plastic tube used as a dampner. Emailed the factory and had one in my mail box in about 4 days. NC Great service.
  10. Double check to make sure that the gears are meshed behind the basket, and the spacer that is releaved on one side is on so the hogged out side is toward the block. MOF, take the thing completely out and put it back in with the book sitting next to you. Also, when you have the basket out, very gently, pull on the clutch lever with your finger over the end of the push rods. It you feel any movement at all your master and slave are OK. Also the pressure plate can be mounted out of alignment. Keep rotating it from hole to hole untill it seats all the way down on the disc pack. Don't ask me why I know all this....
  11. Wow!! Keep us posted on Bob's condition, and we'll keep him in our thoughts. When you see him, tell 'm I said 'Hey'....
  12. That's another good idea George. Thanks... I'll try wiggling the bars around a bit and see if anything happens while it's running and hooked up to the meter.
  13. Got it Joe. Thanks...and yeah.....
  14. I may just run the extra ground wire. I don't do braile very well.... I thought I'd check under the seat sinced it seems the problem rears it's ugly head when I'm in the saddle. When I'm standing next to the bike while it's running perfectly. Like George mentioned there's a 15 wire gang plug that may be damaged under there. I could very well have a positive lead that isn't touching anything until I sit on it??? Then when I hit the brakes or the turn signals it closes the loop and show the big draw?? I put the search off until tommorow. Got sidetracked and rebuilt the front brake today. Don't want to do too much all at once....
  15. Glad the brace is working for ya BJ. I didn't have any glaring handling problems with the '83, but did notice an improvement in the twisties, and high speed freeway grove tracking that I had with the Avons.
  16. OK, Checked out the battery/charge system this morning, and this is what I found. All readings were at the battery posts, initially with the bike cold. The battery voltage was 12.69vdc after resting overnight nothing on. Turned on the ignition key and the voltage dropped to 12.2vdc. Turned on the turn signal and the lamps came on but they didn't cycle. I could hear the breaker trying, but no go. Started the engine. Fired right up. Charge volts showed 14.2vdc at 3000rpm. Took the choke off and the rpm's dropped to 1000. At idle it showed 14.4-5vdc charge, higher than at 3000?? It was consistant. High rpm's showed less than at idle, but still adiquate. Turned on the turn signals. Lamps cycled with the voltage drop, almost nothing. Applied the hand brake, voltage drop again almost nil. The meter on the dash showed mild drops in voltage, but nothing like I experienced yesterday at the signal light. All reading were consistant when the engine wrmed up to operating tempurature. The big variable in all this is that I was sitting on the bike when I experienced the big meter drops in the dash meter readings. Both times. I'm going under the seat and see if I've 'crushed' something.... I'll also check any ground I can find.... And replace the turn signal breaker when I get the chance. Many thanks for all the suggestions. They helped a bunch...
  17. I ordered 3 'BIG' T's and I ain't even going to be there. For some of the guys...and gals... on the Left Coast, there are no plans for T's at VWIV, so here's your chance to pick up a Venture Rider T for 2008.......
  18. I'll give that a try if all else fails. I'm going to try and locate bad grounds first. Before covering up the scoot I tried the turn signal's again without the engine running and they still won't cycle.
  19. That's one of those 'now why didn't I think of that' moments....
  20. Good possibility Jerremy.... Makes sense. I think the ground somewhere is the problem. Tomorrow morning early AM.... Just picked up another Multi-meter from Harbor Freight. Never could find the Beckman... Next progress report in VDC...
  21. Went out this morning and messed around with the bike. I didn't try the flashers while the bike wasn't running, but did after firing it up. It acted like there was never a problem. Everything worked great. Then I rode the bike to an area where it would be easier to work on, and when I braked I noticed the problem starting again. I'm wondering if I don't have a loose ground, and it might be under the seat where George suggested. Especially withme sitting on it!! I'll still get in there and clean up all the grounds, and do the front brake. Afterwards we'll see if it'll happen again. Another thought did occur to me. The problem might be heat related somehow?? I hope the stator isn't quiting when it starts to get warm.
  22. Sorry folks, but the order was placed this AM for 11 sets of mufflers. So, unless someone on the list backs out, for whatrever reason, the list is closed. Those members that haven't been able to send their payments yet, I ask that you try to do it as soon as you can.
  23. It's the '83 Squeeze. Hydralic anti-dives.
  24. I think I have a new one of those floating around in my stash somewhere. And it makes sense. My next project was to rebuild the front master and put in some new pads before my trip to Idaho later this month. The front brake was terrible, and I really had to squeeze on the lever to get what little braking there was out of it. I probably 'squashed' the switch.... I'll go ahead and rebuild, change out the switch, and check for a bad grounds... Might even install one of Brads heavy battery cable sets. Bought enough of them, just haven't had a need to install one yet... Thanks I'm starting to feel better.... Going to bed now....
  25. I'll give it a shot Jeff. Just to clarify. You're talking about the brake switch in the front reserve??
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