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Condor

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Everything posted by Condor

  1. It's totalled, but hold out for the repair... Then fix it yourself. If the guy has insurance they'll end up writing you a check. Hold out for big bucks!!! Those broken parts cost a ton new, plus the custom paint... OooWhee !!!!
  2. THE MEETING PLACE HAS CHANGED FOR THE TAHOE RIDE. INSTEAD OF BURGER KING WE WILL BE GATHERING AT THE In'n'Out BURGER. Same exit. Sunrise off Hwy50... Better burgers anyway!!
  3. I've heard that too Dale, but.... I don't see where putting pressure on the fluid would cause the air to leach out of the system. I can see the air volume getting smaller under pressure or getting suspended in the fluid. MOF by pushing the master piston in, the expansion opening that would allow air to escape from the lines is closed off. I still think a small amount of air is trapped at the top of the brake line and causing the problem. Another area that should be considered is how old was the 'new' brake fluid used when the brakes were bled?? Old stuff that's been laying around the garage for a while will absorb moisture. That moisture will boil when brakes are applied and 'steam' will expand and cause the brakes to get spongy. The fluid may have a 400deg boiling point, but the suspened water still boils a 212degs at sea level. When the fluid is under pressure the water BP will go up, and not start boiling until a higher temp is reached, but release the pressure off the system and it goes back the 212. Kinda like taking the radiator cap off, and the coolant going balistic...
  4. As the brake fluid heats up a little the air expands a lot and causes the sponginess. That's why it's so dang important to get all the air out of the system. Bleed 'm.....
  5. Condor

    Broken Grip

    Just guessing here, but I think the left side is 1"ID and the right side is 1.25 to take the throttle tube. Do I win????
  6. I agree. John Blankenship. Plus if you pull your ignition switch out the key code is on the underside. see pics. I bet if you call John and give him the code he can have one headed your direction in no time....
  7. Thanks for the revue, and welcome to the board. Colorado's a great place to ride. We found that out at last year's National Rally.
  8. You might try using it to kill the engine... all the time. That way the contacts won't corrode and cause problems. I wish they didn't have one, but they do, so I live with it, and it's part of my start ritual...
  9. On the '89 Mark II there is another bleeder valve located in the front brake line at the top of the loop just to the right of the ignition switch. What's happening is that any compressed air suspended in the fluid under pressure is expanding overnight, and rising to the top of the loop, causing the sponginess. I'd also bleed the front caliper first and then the rear. Some may disagree with this, but I've always heard you bleed the one furthest (front) caliper away from the master first, and then the closer (rear) one.
  10. Buddy, I haven't got a clue as to what I was doing. Just that the technique...if there even was one.. came naturally, and it was working. Like all my riding, I don't think about it too much, I just do it...
  11. Thanks for all that information George. I thought it mighta been something done off a diving board....
  12. Last year GeorgeS and I got into some pretty heavy 50mph+ cross winds up in Wyo. I don't know how George did as he was behind me, but the '83 held a line very well. I was surprised. The whole fairing shuttered every time an 18 wheeler passed going the oposite direction, but I felt very comfortable. When we stopped for gas George remarked that it was the worst riding conditions he'd ever experienced. I kinda thought GVW had a lot to do with it as the bike, 10 day worth of gear, and I are 1200+ pounds.
  13. Last time I checked you can still buy the washers from Yamaha. They're not cheap... 'bout $3.50, but they usually have them in stock...
  14. What's a Pike???
  15. Gr8t pics Cindy....
  16. I don't wave anymore...... no one waves back.. Too many scoots on the road since fuel hit $4 bucks a gallon. Maybe we should have a secret non-wave. Let 'm try and figure that one out...
  17. It wouldn't do you any good to contact them directly. You'll just be refered back to Venture Riders. The mufflers are being built from a factory work order, and once that order is in the mix it can't be modified without screwing things up. There are no extras being built for stock. We cleaned out the old existing stock with the first group buy we did, and they'd been sitting on them for a long time. They will continue to build them for us, but they don't want to gamble stocking them again, and I don't blame them. There just isn't enough sales to warrant it. If we stop doing group buys the mufflers will probably be dropped from the line. So we'll probably put together another group buy list in the fall, and ask you to be patient...
  18. Sorry, but the muffler list is closed this time around. The only way you could get on would be if one of the other members on the list had something come up and wanted out. We do the MAC buy every so often so perhaps the next time??
  19. Now Vic. You're not thinkin' doing a little Wild Hogs skinny dippin'.....
  20. Condor

    Covers

    Since I'm storage challenged, and have lots of bikes, I've had to buy several covers. The full covers I use for all-weather are off Ebay. They're called Cycle Sak's, and the price is right....a little over $30 bucks shipped... and I usually get 4-5 years of heavy UV exposure out of one. Very bulky and bullet proof. I also have a full cover made out of a lightweight rip-stop nylon that I carry when on overnighters. Looks like spinnaker material. Packs away into a very small footprint and is great for those short term needs.
  21. Since he's eventually going to stretch out you may want to consider something tempory...like a 2x4 held on with c-clamps???
  22. I think it looks cool Jeff. I was going to post a pic of a black on my '91 but I can find the pics.... old age thing...
  23. I had pretty good results using Sea Foam on that second '83 I picked up. It had sat for 3+ years out in the weather, and once we got it fired up...with the old gas and shut it down emidiately... then put in 3 gallons of fresh and a can of Foam. Never did drain the tank. Fired it back up again and let it idle til the fan kicked on. Then let it sit for 24 hours. The longer it ran the better it got. Finally topped the tank off and took it for a 200 mile ride. If all that's wrong with the carbs is evaporated fuel and varnish, SF will git'r done..
  24. Did he show you the parts that were bad?? 'O' rings and seals are available thru Yamaha. I'd keep an eye out on Ebay for a set of doggy looking carbs for parts etc. I've seen them go for very little money when they're ugly. I've picked up a couple of extra parts sets that I can scavage off of for $40-$50. OR bite the bullet and pick up a good set, but they'll usually go for $150-$200 bucks. How about Klaus...does he have anything??
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