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Everything posted by Condor
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Yep... I can't find a decient bargain on Ebay lately. Some stuff is going balistic in bidding. There's been a couple of things come up that I really needed so I tossed in a bid double what I would have paid a year ago to make sure I'd get it. I didn't even come close. I don't know if there are some bidders out there that are trying to stockpile mint/new/NOS stuff, and think they can make a killing reselling them in a couple of years, or what?? But prices are going up faster than a Canaveral launch, and Venture parts are hotter than a Jalapeno pepper... I can't afford to shop Ebay any longer....
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Man it's smoky. Caugh...caugh...hack!! Nor-Cal is on fire. Last report I heard we have 800 fires going.... and the smoke is everywhere. The sun looks like a big ol' harvest moon. Wish a breeze would kick up and blow this stuff out of the area. Tomorrow morning I'm leaving for ID for a couple of days, and looking forward to breathing clean air.... FIRE MAP
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starter clutch when cold ?
Condor replied to 6m459's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
That's really puzzling. I would think if you have a bad starter clutch it would be bad or good period, not subject to heat... The only variable is probably the oil flow when the engine warms up??? What exactely is the clutch doing, or not doing, to make you think it's bad??? -
As a rule you're never going to get a lot for the options, but I'll take a stab and say 11K to 12.5K.
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I couldn't even open a page about 20 minutes ago. Scarry times......
- 7 replies
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- brakes
- occasionally
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It's up to $3800, hit reserve, and the high bidder has only 1 feedback. Where are these guys when I have something posted on Ebay???? Oh, that's right... I require 5 positive feedback....
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I might also add that the Mark1 pegs are different than the Mark2's. And.... the MK1's will fit the Mk2's. The difference is the 1's have an adjustable peg which Yamaha did away with on the 2's. So if you have a non-standard foot size, you might want to consider looking around for an earlier set of pegs on Ebay. And.... when shopping pegs on Ebay be more critical of the peg rubber than the condition of the metal parts. Metal can be bead blasted, the rubber is a bear to replace.....
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The same thing happened to me with 2 front AVONs 2 years ago. Looks like weather checking in the side walls. Happened twice. I think there might still be pics of the 1st tire on the board somewhere?? The 3rd tire has 5,000 miles on it and it's perfect. AVON's policy is they will quickly send a replacement tire to a dealer , and the dealer will send the bad tire back to AVON. I guess they don't trust the rider to follow thru with the return...maybe from experience?? Anyway, the second tire they sent me was built just a couple of weeks after the first. Very shortly it started checking too, although not as bad, so they replaced that one. I took the tire off both times, but I could have rode the bike to the dealer and let the dealer take it off in the shop. Here's the deal. AVON will pay for the entire dealer service as well as replace the tire. So your buddy shouldn't have any down time other than the ride to your local shop, and it doesn't need to be a major brand store, an independant shop will be OK.
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Must be Bob. I would have thought running at high RPMs, pulling steep grades, powering out of turns, would have taken it's toll on the MPG, but it doesn't.. Looks like I'll have to take a few more rides up there this summer to conserve on gas. Just doing my thing to support lower gas usage.... Could be George?? Gotta pat her on the fanny every once in a while to keep her happy....
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Holy Moly!!! It's an '84, and the high bid is $3150, and it hasn't hit reserve yet. So it's got 11k miles. That tells me second gear has got 30K left in it before it goes.... And the brakes and clutch need to be bled...
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Kinda like the tail wagging the dog.....
- 7 replies
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- advice
- interstate.motor7_6_3[1]
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"Nightmare at a dealer" or "Lawrenceville Honda/Yamaha, you suck!"
Condor replied to Guindalf's topic in Watering Hole
I think everyone in the area should drop by and look at the bikes they have on the floor. When asked if you need help... Tell 'm nope. Just looking before buying from another dealer in the next county/city/state. Explain that they were closer and more convient to help you decide on model and color, but the 'other dealer' has a better reputation.- 39 replies
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- $4499
- lawrenceville
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Sure 'nuff. Here ya go.
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That's a whole 'nother problem. What I finally ended up doing was to buy a very small pair of needle nosed pliers from Harbor Freight and notch the tips to get the ring out of there. Here's a fews pics that might help.. #1 shows the ring, #2 shows pushing in the piston to get it out of the way, #3 shows sticking a small pick through the reserve hole to retain the piston, and #4 shows the pliers. The notch doesn't have to be very deep...just enough to keep the ring from going balistic....
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Your failure to get the air out of the lines..kenitic or soluble.. might have been your method of forcing the fluid in at the slave Squeeze. I personally use one of those rubber ear bulbs available at your local drug store. It's the KISS formula. I've never had a reverse bleed fail yet. I think the secret is being able to get a good seal on the threads of slave unit after removing the bleeder valve. When I force the fluid in at the slave I can actually hear the bubbles coming out at the reserve.... But what ever method you use, it's what works for you. Go for it...
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The pressure created by the lever being pulled in is very low Squeeze. You probably could have accomplised the same thing by just leaving it sit overnight. Under pressure soluble air will remain soluble, and only seperate when presure is nil, and by design all of the line air bubbles will eventually rise to the master area. One of the problems when doing this is the air will be trapped behind the banjo bolt, and the clutch will still feel like mush. Then frustration is right around the corner. Been there...done that. The only way I've found...as most of you know by now... is reverse bleeding the clutch from the salve. No over nights, no waiting, just bleed it and go. One of these days I'm going to have to do a write up with pics....
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With all due respect Dan. Before rebuilding the clutch slave I also tried the lever thing, and it didn't work. I've also heard that pulling the lever in half way would do it, but I now know it can't either. When you pull the lever it pushes the piston and cup beyond the fluid expansion hole that would allow any air to get out of the lines. Unless there's another way for air to get out of the system I don't know about?? If you look at the pic below, when the lever is relaxed the cup lip sits between the larger fluid supply hole and the smaller hole on the left which lets hot expanded fluid out, and the clutch line volume to equalize. I don't know if that would be the correct terminology but it's the best I can do...old age thing....
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Yesterday a group of us did what turned out to be a marathon day ride. 350 miles thru Lake Tahoe and the California Sierras. I started Saturday at 0730hrs and finally parked the scoot at 2000hrs. I didn't have a chance to check mpg until tanking up in Tahoe. Between Tahoe and traveling some of the crookedest roads in the US.. I put on a lot of agressive riding...my chicken strips are gone.. Lots of 2nd,3rd, 4th gears. Rarely got into 5th. R's between 3K and 6K. I traveled 153 miles and used 2.8 gallons. 50+ MPG!! The only thing I can figure is it must be the something in the air. The last time I got 50+ was VWIII in Susanville and the Sierras. Most of the time running on the slab at 70 I average around 38-39. Go figure???
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Throttle cable fitting.
Condor replied to woz111's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
What year 1stgen do you have?? I couldn't find any information in your CP file. And do you have cruise control or not?? '83's have more of a sleeve affair then the bigger round connector. To get the ends into the carb assembly the carbs need to be off the bike. Loosen the adjusters at the grip as much as you can, and hook the cable ends into the carb cams....then slip the cable into the end cups using the slot in the side. Re-adjust the cables. If you don't take the carbs off you'll drive yourself nuts..... -
http://www.crashedtoys.com/Item.asp?StockNumber=214582&
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Yep, a lot of me'll be there.. See ya at the In'n'Out bURGEr....