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Condor

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Everything posted by Condor

  1. Condor
    I sent you a PM on reverse bleeding the clutch. If that doesn't get you going then it's time to pull the clutch cover and take a look at the mechanical end of the matter. I gotta ask. Can you shift into any gear while the motor is not running??? You should be able to get things lined up and shift up and down thru the gears without the clutch.... Anyway put the bike on the sidestand, and you won't have to drain the oil. While the cover is off operate the clutch lever. Is the clutch pack moving? Yes?? Then it's not your clutch and probably your tranny. If not then pull the pressurer plate off. Try very gently squeezing the clutch lever again with your finger on the rod. Feel movement? Then the problem in the clutch pack. Hope it's a air in the line problem...
  2. Condor
    First things first. The odo runs off the same cable as the speedo. If your extra dash looks fairly decent I'd go ahead and replace the entire dash. It's a pain to remove the speedo, not hard, just tedious. Second having 2 bars after putting on 110 miles is about right. My light will start blinking with no bars after 150 miles. Sometimes more, and sometimes a little less depending on driving habits...
  3. Condor
    I screw it on using those large threads. It ain't easy, but do-able. Just make sure you have it installed in the right direction or you'll really get pissed.....
  4. Condor
    Yep, May was a good vintage.....
  5. Condor
    I replaced my slave 3 years ago with a new one from Buckeye. Ran around $60 bucks. Still cheep enough. If I could get them for $30 bucks I'd buy a half dozen just because.... I used a #25 allenhead socket with a 1/4" extension. One came out great and the other rounded out. I wasn't as smart as you Mike. I drilled the allen head off and then took a metric stud extractor on the rest after the slave was outta there.
  6. Condor
    Fishes have fins... What's fins got to do with it....
  7. Condor
    Yeah, probably not..............
  8. Condor

    Upgrade brakes?

    Condor replied to a topic in Watering Hole

    So that's what I've got!!!!!!.... I got down under the '91 and saw this funny set up for the rear rotor. A two piece afair that had EBC stamped in the middle plate. Course I just noticed the EBC, but didn't think too much about it. The more I dig into the bike the more trick stuff I find. I just checked the fronts and they look stock. Wish is didn't leak oil so much....
  9. Condor
    Yep... The whole is worth more that the parts... Kinda nice to be compared to a 57 cheevie... I wonder if 2Gens will ever get there .....
  10. Condor
    25.......
  11. Condor
    on Ebay lately. A month ago there were 2-3 complete bikes listed and an item count in the 700's, and now it's hovering around 200 with one seller keeping the count up with his listings of sub-parts. Case.... a side shift assembly torn down to the pedal and mount, or a clutch master listed as lever and reserve.... Doesn't sound too smart.... Anyway it's like the Sahara Dessert. I usually watch 20-30 items, and when things are really good it's up into the mid 40's. This morning's count... 9.... I guess 1stGen riders are keeping there bikes instead of selling them to VR killers.....
  12. Condor
    Whacha mean LOOKS LIKE......
  13. Condor
    http://www.cast-aways.com/images/OldCodger.jpg
  14. Condor
    I went in to see the Doc about something??, and my BP checked a little high. Normally it's within specs. So he put's me on some BP meds. After two days of this stuff I couldn't stand up without bouncing off the walls. No way I would get near the bike. Stopped taking them and a couple of days later I was back to normal.... Whew!! I think MDs are in cahoots with the pill people, and that's all they do is prescribe..prescribe..prescribe............
  15. Condor
    That's another area that I originally had a problem with, but..... what I finally found out is that that slave is fairly easy to remove, and install, by rotating it upside down as you remove it, and insert it upside down when installing. What happens is the bolt tab of the slave sets behind the shift linkage rod, and by rotating it it moves to the front of the rod and is much easier to remove. The middle gear cover needs to be removed, the wires coming out of the stator need to be pushed out of the way, and the line from the master with banjo bolt must be removed. Go slow....be patient...Drink beer.....
  16. Condor
    The dealer price list shows $50+ bucks. Granted it's a couple of years old, but I've found it to be in the ballpark most of the time.........
  17. Condor
    Thanks again Squeeze.... I just copied the above to a file for future use. For some reason I think we'll need it again.....
  18. Condor
    The one on the drive shaft housing is the only one. A few of the members have installed zerks when they've had their rear suspensions apart. BTW the zerk on the drive housing doesn't really do anything. Bad idea.
  19. Condor
    It's probably a bad sender. It sounds like there's a break in the wrapped resistence wire that the pick-up rides on. I've successfully soldered the wires together on auto senders, but I've never actually eyeballed one of he Ventures. It looks like they're fairly easy to remove...sits right under the seat... You might even consider replacing it with a new one. Looks like they'd be around $50 bucks??
  20. Condor
    Mark, Did you loosen the pinch bolts at the top of the forks. I don't know where it is right of hand, but we had a pretty lengthy discussion about what some of the folks did to make their's fit. Some ground the brace to fit with success, but the best way seems to be by loosening the top pinch bolts. Squeeze had a very detailed method of properly doing the installation... Maybe he'll chime in with it again.
  21. Condor
    I'm not going to go into the whole clutch master rebuild Clay, but attached are about 5 pics that will save you from pulling your hair out. #1..compress the piston #2 stick a sharp awl into the hole in the bottom of the reseve to keep the piston compressed. #3 'C' clip exposed. #4 small needle nosed pliers with ground tips #5 Needle nose in action.
  22. Condor
    For narrow gapped slivers the Permatex should work just fine, but for filling big voids in the fairing I'd suggest using IPS #16 and glass matting to create a backing on the inside and then filling the void from the outside. The bottle in the pics is another IPS product called ABS Weld-on 2354 that's used to weld the spider cracks in ABS, and does a great job! They're basically the same thing, but the #16 is a heavier viscosity. Attached are a few pics of the job I had to do on the trunk of the '91. Just wet the surface out with the 16 and lay the glass over the hole, and then wet out the matting. #16 is designed to chemically melt the ABS and the matting will actually bond into the surface. To fill the void on the outside I used PC7 2-part epoxy. I wasn't to happy with the consistancy of the mix, tough to work with, so the permatex may be a better product. Anyway I failed to take pics of the end result, but the repair is very strong, and after sanding and shoting with Krylon Semi-flat Black, it's looks very nice even if it is on the underside of the trunk...
  23. Condor
    I'll let you know Brad. However I'm not looking for a hot rod. The '91's a beast and set up to pull a trailer. With my butt in the saddle I thought it might be interesting to give it a little more low-end grunt. Besides the price was right....
  24. Condor
    I've never had one of the AD's off to take a look at it, but it doesn't make sense that there's a weep hole without an 'O' ring seal between the surfaces to keep it from leaking. An air hole maybe, if it's got one of those accordian bladders internally that keep air and moisture away from the fluid like those in the master cylinder gaskets?? Like I said I've never been face to face with one.. Interesting.....
  25. Condor
    The top of the engine is as dry as a bone, and clean as a whistle , and I took a look as best I can around the shift linkage shafts while I had the middle cover off, and they looked clean too. But.... the bottom of the pan is a mess. From the amount leakage, and the look of the pan, I'm wondering if the pan itself isn't leaking or maybe have a crack in it??? The only way I'll be able to tell is to pull the collector off and I'm not looking forward to it. Love that layered technology...
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