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Condor

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Everything posted by Condor

  1. Condor
    You're supposed to ride these things, not keep dropping them.... A '99 in nice condition sells for around 5.5-6.5K. On a bike with a salve title knock off 1.5 grand, and fairing problems another grand. Plastic is still expensive for the second gens...even on Ebay. Hope this helps.
  2. Condor
    Squeeze do you know what type..make bracket is used? Is it one that already exists or is it something that would have to be made up?? Doing the R1/R6 caliper mod on an '83 would be a big improvement.
  3. Condor
    Does the Mobile 1 synthetic come with any friction modifiers???
  4. Condor
    The last time I posted anything about the punch mark was to ask if anyone had ever seen one of the illusive things??? I never have. I think it may have been a couple of dealers way of telling if a bike had been modified, but maybe wasn't a common practice with all dealers, and has since become a myth??? I don't even know if there is a tech bulletin that mentions marking it, or explains where to put it. If there is I'd like to hear about it.....
  5. Condor
    Thanks Squeeze. I wonder if it had anything to do with different heat transfers between the two metals. Aluminum would transfer heat/energy to the fluid quicker, but also disapate the heat just as quickly. While steel would heat slower and cool slower. Keeping the brakes cool is the most important thing, and depending on the style of riding, either application would do well. For light usage applications perhaps steel would be a better choice.
  6. Condor
    Thanks Squeeze. I've never seen a silver for sale... or maybe I just haven't noticed ?? Which do you think would actually be better?? Steel rusts and aluminum oxidizes???
  7. Condor
    What's the difference between the gold and blue dot R1/R6 calipers??? Any difference beside the color???
  8. Condor
    Unless a something unexplained happens it looks like we'll be holding Venture West #5 in Cody Wy. Next year. The Beartooth Highway is one of the rides we'd like to do for a group ride. If anyone is interested in attending next years shindig the polls are still open til tomorrow morning at http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27730 It should be a kick-ass-time.
  9. Condor
    Some of the guys have doubled up their springs in the MkII clutches with good results. Others have changed out the presure plate to a Barnet with the coil springs. Although the friction plates may not look worn and mic out OK, the surfaces may have harden with age and not grab as well as new. Another thing to consider is the clutch fluid needs to be bled, and the fluid expansion hole checked for blockage.. When the fluid heats up with engine heat it will expand and cause the clutch to slip. Here's a tech article on a Barnet replacement... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=491
  10. Condor
    It think you'd better stick to an oven to dry them out Bob.....
  11. Condor
    If you want to make a dip stick, the dip part goes into the hole 1.25" and the level indicator is 1.00" below the plug seating surface. Fairly simple to make. Personally I just fill to the bottom of the hole on all the bikes, and one of them is an '83. So far the final on it hasn't imploded on me after about 10,000 miles.... KOW! Another thought... If you happened to overfill it, I think the excess lube would blow out the top thru the breather. I do know that when shipping a final and the thing hasn't been drained, your going to get oil all over the place, and have a few very unhappy postal workers.... :)
  12. Condor
    I read somewhere that there's a rev limiter of 10g's built into the system. Maybe it's TCI controlled?? OR maybe the valves start to float...
  13. Condor
    I use a set of Canyon Dancers.
  14. Condor
    I picked up a pair of 15D EMT boots with the side zipper for $60 bucks off Ebay. Here's a listing for a pair of 15EE BOOTS in a Dingo listed in one of the Ebay stores. Here's a listing for a pair of 14EE's. As a rule of thumb there's not a whole lot of guys looking for the big sizes and if they go to auction they can be had fairly cheap....
  15. Condor
    This is just a guess, but you may not be pulling enough amps to make the breaker work. Instead of seperating they are trying to work and just buzzing. Maybe a higher rated bulb???
  16. Condor
    Axles?? The fronts are 6303 or 303 if they're timkin, the back is 6304/304 on the rotor side. The rear needle bearing is Yamaha only from what I've read.
  17. Condor
    So the cup, or pushing surface is actually an intrigal part of the short rod on the MkII's. See...I told you we were talking about two different things.... And you can tell I've never gotten up close and personal with a MkII clutch...
  18. Condor
    I think we're talking about two different things Squeeze. I'm talking about the cup that fits in the center of the throw out bearing that the push rod 'pushes' against to disengage the clutch. Without it there would be no way to actuate the clutch pressure plate. The rod would go right thru the center of the bearing.
  19. Condor
    Yep, my '83VR has 50+K on it. Dry as a bone. I put in some synthetic oil, and it started to smoke from oil leaking on the exhaust. Changed back to dino and the leak stopped. Amsoil states right on their website the older engines that have been using dino oil will develope leaks. You may have heard the myth that synthetic oil can cause engine seals to leak. Synthetics absolutely do not cause seals to leak, they simply may only reveal an existing leak path and seal which has failed and is in need of mechanical replacement. Either the seal lip is worn down or the seal is hardened and cracked from old age, heat and ozone. What happens is exactly as we described above. If you have a very old engine that has been running petroleum oil, and it also leaks, for example around the rear-main oil seal, then chances are it will leak more with synthetic oil. This is commonly referred to a false seal. AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils are recommended for use in mechanically sound engines! If you have a vehicle that leaks oil excessively, then repair the seal prior to converting to AMSOIL. What I find sort of comical is the statement that Synthetics don't cause leaks...., It's like saying I put 3000# of weight on an old 1000# scale, but the weight didn't cause the thing to break, it was a worn part. Synthetic oil does have a lot of additives. That's why it's so expensive. It's doesn't compute that dino oils companies would put the same cost of those additives into non-synthetics. I'll stand by my statement earlier, without smiling, and recommend dino oils for the 1stGen Ventures.
  20. Condor
    Yes... we do have to make it easy for some....
  21. Condor
    Einey..meany..miney..moe... Nah, the one that runs....
  22. Condor
    There's a plastic elbow coming off the water pump on the right side of the engine. The ground is tucked in on the inside of the 'L'.....
  23. Condor
    Sure if you want to go that route. It's kinda on the pricy side, but now days I guess they all are. I pick up Rotella a Wally World for a little over $8.00 bucks a gallon.
  24. Condor
    My bad. Didn't pay attention to the BIN. At $285 it's a steal....
  25. Condor
    And there's a cup that fits in the center that the rods push against... It's not part of the bearing...
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