Condor

I get the problem with i.e. and chrome. Using Win7. I have been using Bitdefender as my wall, and it seems that the issue may be with it. My soninlaw removed his and installed Avast and the problem went away on his CPU. I also tried restoring but the restore failed. I'll probably do the swap tomorrow... Thanks for all the suggestions.

About 4 days ago I started getting no secure protocol errors on a few of my web auction sites and they wouldn't open. Contacted my family tech and he was experiencing the same thing. There a couple of locals that worked fine. Now this morning when I go to a couple of local sites the thumbnail picks don't appear, just the pic address. And when I click on the address it goes nowhere. About 4 days ago I up dated my Win 7 (critical) and a couple of days ago Google released a chrome ad blocker which I guess was loaded automatically?? Anyway I'd sure like to get back to normal.. Anyone else having this problem??? BTW my phone works OK, and so does my Ipad... using apps... And now Youtube won't work. The circle just sits there and spins..... Yeesh!!!!!!!

About 4 days ago I started getting no secure protocol errors on a few of my web auction sites and they wouldn't open. Contacted my family tech and he was experiencing the same thing. There's a couple of locals that worked fine. Now this morning when I go to a couple of local sites the thumbnail picks don't appear, just the pic address. And when I click on the address it goes nowhere. About 4 days ago I up dated my Win 7 (critical) and a couple of days ago Google released a chrome ad blocker which I guess was loaded automatically?? Anyway I'd sure like to get back to normal.. Anyone else having this problem??? BTW my phone works OK, and so does my Ipad... using apps...

Lookin' Good.... Formula 409 or any Beutel based cleaner cuts through smoke soot like a hot knife thru butter.... :-)

Conversely that is the same reason for the 5 year tire hype. We either wear them out or replace them due to road hazards, abnormal wear, or old age, but that doesn't mean after 5 years. IMHO any tire that deteriorates in 5 years I don't wanna own... So like in the last Snell sentence it's a judgement call. What I'd like to see is a warantee that's more than a year. For the price they charge for MC tires, compared to auto tires, the warantee should be 10 yrs. or to the wear bars....

this is from the snell foundation.... [h=4]Why should you replace your helmet every five years?[/h]The five-year replacement recommendation is based on a consensus by both helmet manufacturers and the Snell Foundation. Glues, resins and other materials used in helmet production can affect liner materials. Hair oils, body fluids and cosmetics, as well as normal "wear and tear" all contribute to helmet degradation. Petroleum based products present in cleaners, paints, fuels and other commonly encountered materials may also degrade materials used in many helmets possibly degrading performance. Additionally, experience indicates there will be a noticeable improvement in the protective characteristic of helmets over a five-year period due to advances in materials, designs, production methods and the standards. Thus, the recommendation for five-year helmet replacement is a judgment call stemming from a prudent safety philosophy.

I had a Dunlop EII on my 83VR that came with the bike when I bought it. It had 50% wear and who know's how old it was?? The PO had just replaced the front but I think the rear was OEM. Anyway I rode around on it for a couple of more years and then had the Ft Collins trip coming up so thought it might be wise to replace it. Posted a pic here to get opinions and everyone said ride it. So I did. Another 3K miles and it still had tread when I got back. So I don't take too much stock in tire companies recommendations... Kinda like 5 years on a helmet....

Very nice offer, but I'd keep a few. You never know you might buy another one... :-)

Carl, I'm thinking that maybe the crank is over full, or excessive crank pressure might be the cause of oil coming out from around that screw... beside it being loose as you already mentioned. I would think from the pics of that bike it probably has a few more issues that just the leak...??

I know I'm going to catch all kinds of hell for this, but I take exception to the importance of swapping out the master.... Granted it might do a little good, but going through the hassle of changing from the OEM master to me is just tossing money at something that should be a relatively simple and inexpensive job. Those pads ride a couple thousands of an inch off the rotor and it doesn't take that much to hydraulically move them. So to me the OEM is adequate. The last thing you want to do with the front brakes, other than improving the feel, is to make them too touchy, and have the front end lock up every time you sneeze... I like to call it over powering the patch.. Remember stopping comes from where the rubber meets the road. Not at the lever. Too much lever too quickly will get you in trouble... A little bit of sponginess is actually a good thing. IMHO My 2¢

SS lines will get rid of the sponginess, but do nothing on increasing the braking power. That's where the R1/R6 calipers will make a big difference... They're a plug and play replacement. However, I'd bleed the OEM's first before planning on the upgrade...

OK I'm back... I read this thread about two hours ago with interest since I'm planing on redoing the patio cover next to the office, and been off researching. I plan on covering it one more time and never again in my lifetime. I'm tired of replacing a tarp every year.. So here's what I plan on using. 1/4"x4'x8' doug-fir plywood and covering it with the same goo they use to seal RV trailer tops. Kinda a white rubber based paint. If those ribs are 4' on center it would be possible to screw them to the frame. 1/4" should be flexible enough to bend to the contour. 1/2" might be too stiff. I don't have to deal with anywhere near the same acreage that you have, but it should be a heck of a lot cheaper than 30 grand. Gonna have to crunch the numbers. One thing you'd need to consider is it's going to be dark inside. Maybe some skylights, or lighting. Depending on electrical access, either a stand alone system with solar panels, or wired directly into the house. Or... possibily you already have something for nighttime light besides a flashlight?? Anyway it's one more suggestion.. Good luck with the project and pics when it's done... 30x60?? I'm jealous..

I remember you telling me that, but when I saw the seat I thought, Hey.. miracles do happen... :-) Hope Patty is able to re-do the cover.

Yep.. I wasn't that far off.. See I can still remember a few things.. :-) BTW that seat looks great too. Wasn't sure if it could be saved, but you've done an awesome job. It's a Merry Terry made in her shop in Old Sacramento. She's still in biz but no longer builds seats. One of the most comfortable I've ever ridden....

I've never heard the Jardines so can't speak for their 'voice'... The MAC's are a medium mellow with a bark when throttling up. They sound even better at idle if you do the Jason Mod on the carbs. The mod does nothing to improve performance but gives the engine a pleasing little 'Cam' lope. Maybe Ed @Zzyzx can take a better video while the bikes running nakid??

That's one of the things I really liked about it.... Bling with style...

That's the place to get them then..... Good luck...

Yep they're MACS. I bought the first set to check them out and then gambled and bought the rest of the stock... another 10 pair... and sold them to the members of the board for cost plus shipping. Needless to say they didn't last very long... :-) I then ordered another 10 and it was like pulling teeth trying to get them built. Finally got those in and shipped, but decided that was not worth the effort. Jardine and MAC were the only 1stGen exhaust builders, and I'm pretty sure they have both discontinued them... Here's a short AVI clip that will give you an idea of what they sounded like... MACS 83vr 008.AVI

So I was saving your pics of the naked chick and ran across this one in her better days.... :-)

We've been having some unseasonable warm weather here in NorCal the last week or so, up in the mid 70's, but last night it dropped to 39. Had to tweek the heater in the office this morning.... Brrr!! Youse guys can send all that rain south. We need it, and if this dry weather continues we're in for another hot summer and water rationing.....

Looking forward to seeing her up and dressed again....

That was one of the big things that worried me... Some of the things that whispered in my ear was... it was lighter and easier to handle..Bid!! Bid!!! Then I looked at the renewal date and the pic on my drivers license and said screw it damn it!! Customs still bring some pretty good money from the car collector crowd at some of these big auctions. Not anywhere near what it cost to build one, but in this case it was a rider not a showroom display. I bet it'd pull 15-17 at BJ or Mecum... That and a lot of high end parts....

then sanity set back in.... What would I have done with it other than know that I owned it?? $6G's was still a heck of a buy, and it would have made some bucks at Barrett- Jackson 'Hot August Nights' in Reno in about 6 months. The thing might have been a 2002 Dyna Super Glide, but in title only... The rest was high dollar custom... Buy that engine directly from S&S and it's close to 10 grand... Oh Well... Sigh!!

They also have the V-Boost manifold set up that can be wired for manual operation instead of running off the tach.. I think??... OK found this on Wiki.. V-Boost is a system that opens butterfly valves in the intake manifold between the 1st and 2nd and between the 3rd and 4th cylinders starting from 5,750 rpm. The valves are opened gradually to match the rising engine speed with a signal provided by the ignition system. The valves are at the full open position at 8,000 rpm. A small black box sends a computed signal to a servo motor that pulls a wire to open the butterfly valves. The V-Boost system adds 10 percent to the top power rating of the base engine.[10]

A lot... I've seen them bring 65-70 thou at Barrett-J. Don't think it would take all that long to prep the body. If you watched the video the thing is really straight plus almost every up-grade part needed to get it rolling is there. Take the body off the frame and do a quality paint job. Meanwhile get the frame painted and put back together and check out the motor. Finish off the interior,and get a new piece of front glass, perspire a bit, and it should be good to go.... I'd love to see it when it's back together....