Condor

Yep... Ditto!! Some folks will remove the kick, but the Voyager will fit with it up. That way you won't misplace it, and it'll be there if and when you ever decide to remove the kit and need something to keep the scoot from falling over....

Take a look at the back of the bottle and see if what looks like a grey rain drop in the properties area. Friction Modifiers..... Lately I've been using Castrol Actevo Extra 4T. Its a blend of synthetic and Dino oils... but they change additives without telling anyone so check every time you pick some up. Any oil that says Energy Conserving has modifiers.... http://dr650.zenseeker.net/Lubrication/EnergyConserving.jpg

Not sure about Pennz, but Valvoline MC oil comes in two different types. One is for dry clutches and the other is for wet. The dry has friction modifiers. Might you have picked up the dry by mistake?? Just asking....

First off... Awesome looking bike!! Second on the electrical issue. Did you use a 5-4 that has to be wired to the batt, or one of the un-powered types?? Everything works on my '04 RSV-'06 Voyager, but I had help. Ed @Zzyzx came over and I supervised. He wired up the Voyager as well as for the tow behind trailer, and everything works. The Voyager fenders have stop/run/and turn. The led light bar has stop/run/and turn. The bike has stop/run/and turn as well as the trailer. I do see where your Voyager has full lighting on the rear cover while mine just has running lights..

Just a thought... What type/brand/weight motor oil are you using?? Any oil with friction modifiers will cause the clutch to slip...

Actually it's on the left unless of course you're leaning over the top of the scoot... :-) Looks like someone started to drill a hole by mistake and then quit since the micro-hole is so damn small to see... I've never done it, but if I remember the next time, I'm thinking about drilling it out a tad bigger. I know Honda uses a larger hole in their masters. That would definitely eliminate the plugging by the smaller crystals..

Just make sure that expansion hole is clear when you do. A little story. My first 83VR had a very bad slipping clutch, and after rebuilding the entire clutch from ground up it still slipped. I spent probably $250 bucks in new slave, rebuild kits, and clutch discs, plus a lotta man hours on the re-manufacture. In the end it was the plugged hole. Found the problem when I took everything apart and reassembled. It would have taken 30 minutes to clean out the hole and bleed!!.... The only good thing that came out of the whole experience is I got a very up-close and personal knowledge of the entire clutch system...and the clutch was in like-new condition...

I picked up a brand X a few months ago in an auction of store returns. $10 bucks so figured what the 'H' and bid. Looks like new and works great. Looks just like a GoPro... Since then I've run across many different brands of look-a-likes...

Neal with your kind of riding I highly doubt your clutch discs show any signs of wear....

If it's an Elma you stole it... :-)

Mine isn't that big... just over a gallon and my timer and temp are a dial and goes to 1hr/80deg. The count down is still digital. The size maybe the reason yours doesn't heat up a lot?? And I start with cold tap water... There's also a difference in the vibrating element. Transducers are usually piezoelectric (e.g. made with lead zirconate titanate (PZT), barium titanate, etc.), but are sometimes magnetostrictive. The mags are used in the less expensive units... OR maybe it's the other way around?? Degasing is a big secret. They all use the term, but never explain how.. But after much digging I found that running the bath for about 10 minutes before using will get rid of the air in the water and clean better. https://www.zoro.com/elmasonic-ultrasonic-cleaner-capacity-15-gal-elmasonic-ep60h/i/G7179789/

Haven't got a clue. I set the temp to 80deg, drop in the part, and it's pretty warm when I pull it out after I remember it's still running??? The rust starts coming off as soon as I drop the part in...

I'm lucky. My daughter works for Ace Hardware Distributing. I always get it for $5 bucks. When ever I need fuel for all the Briggs and Stratton's I dump a whole can into a 5 gal fuel can. Keeps all the stuff cleaned out and they start when I need them to...

I have an Elmo Ultra Sonic, and use a cleaner designed to remove oil and carbon... They make several different 'brews' depending on the job. Bought it online and it works great. BTW never use any type of solvent in an ultra sonic if you value your eyebrows... :-) I also run the temp at around 80degs, and don't forget to degas before starting... Love to watch the rust roll off parts...

Thanks Leland. I think sometime in the past I'd heard of Vanderhall, but I'm real lucky if I can recall what happened yesterday. Nice bunch of vid's Puc. Thought you were gonna loose your hat a couple of times.. :-) How was the foot room?? I like the styling more than the Sling but the price is a gulper. You may think it was cheap but the old pocket book is sealed shut. I guess I'm just too old fashioned and when something cost more than what I paid for the house the light bulb dims a bunch...

Thanks for catching that.... Everything is ass backwards today...

I'm not into gaudy and really like the color of Don's. A 34" inseam, fat ass, size 15D's, and old age will probably keep me out of one.. I wonder if there are any other's on the market besides Polarus??

The bleeder for the clutch is under that square rubber cap on the left side of the engine aft of the V. The expansion hole is at the base of the reserve. With the reserve cover off and just slightly squeezing the clutch lever you should see a small ripple appear on the surface of the fluid. If not it's plugged. The fluid should be like water clear. If it's dark at all it's time for a bleed. Speed Bleeders are great. http://www.speedbleeder.com/

Before going for the clutch juggler check the expansion relief hole in the base of the reserve. It could be plugged and the expanding fluid has no place to go and starts to apply pressure to the slave causing the clutch to slip. Also make sure that the reserve isn't over full which will cause the slip as well. The reason that the fluid level in the sight glass should only be half way. BTW one of those wire ties you can find in the produce section of the grocery store after the cover is stripped off make a dandy expansion hole cleaner.... :-)

Like you Don I sat on BigBob's Spider in Cody and couldn't get my legs to fit. How's the leg room in this one?? And I'm wondering... Has anyone done a significant long range trip in one yet?? And how's the fuel mpg if you keep your foot out of it?? BTW Happy Birthday!!

Weird weather to be sure. I once saw a video of stuff bigger than than in Texas. If you weren't under cover you died... You have to remember Feb 20 is summertime down under...

You're damn right it can be saved, but folks ain't gonna like it.... Change the pumps to liters, and raise the price of fuel to $5.00 bucks...

Brings a tear to the eye... Very Very nice job Ed....

LOL... Yeah, probably... :-)

Way back when I thought I'd been bitten by a spider in the left small of my back. Went to ER and while they were doing their check-in an older nurse comes in and sez to show her the bite. She takes one look and sez hmph.. Shingles. So the doc comes in a tells me it'll generally lasts about 6 weeks, and gives me a prescription for some salve. So I fill it and it's for a case of the stuff. I go home, slather on the salve, and in about a week the damn stuff disappears. Hasn't ever come back. Knock on wood!!