Jump to content

Condor

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    12,680

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Condor

  1. Condor
    It's not stuck JR... It just ain't moving. No vacuum... or no diaphragm. Usually the slide will move even if there's a few holes in the rubber pham... This thing is just sitting there... Of course it's the #4 carb. Couldn't be #1 or #3... That would make things too easy...
  2. Condor
    I did that Buddy. Everything's dry. No evidence of a leak.... Here's something that's got me scratching my head... It only leaks after I've run the motor for a while. Then it'll drip for a while and then quit. I think it's coming from an area where oil will pool. I thought it might be from the rear valve cover, but the back side of the head is dry and dusty. The other area is the middle gear cover. If this last go around doesn't get it I might try using a form-a-gasket treatment of some sort. It's just that when I do it, it's a PITA getting the cover off in the future....
  3. Condor
    OK, what happens if you use the debit as a credit, and the funds are still NSF?? Who picks up the tab??
  4. Condor
    I've checked the wires. Dry. The #4 butterfly is opening, but the slide won't move period. Not even a giggle.... Either the diaphragm is shot, or the slide has come apart, or the 'O' ring for the air orifice is missing??? I'll find it. It's just that the dang thing runs so good from 1200rpm up....
  5. Condor
    I noticed this a couple of years ago. I went up to the local station and charged $20 or $30 bucks, and when I got home I saw what, I thought, was a charge for $50. I went back up to the station ready to rip some a$$. The guy explained that they do it to make sure the funds are there before gas is pumped, and the charge is deleted after the actual transaction is made. He was getting too many debit users who would hand them their card and go out and pum gas, and when he went to swipe the card it would bounce NSF. He has no idea how much a person will use so $50 bucks seemed reasonable at the time. Seemed reasonable to me too. I don't so much blame the dealer, but the sleeze bags that were running there little scam. Almost the same as the old drive off's of years back.
  6. Condor
  7. Condor
    Ok, so I've been pretty lackadaisical about the '91VR since I bought her. After repairing the rear trunk... big project... and replacing a couple of cracked dash boards, it came down to trying to find the leak above the collector without a whole lot of success. I eventually pulled the middle gear cover to see if it might be that. Changed the gasket, and put a new crush washer on the bottom cap screw. Still leaked. That's where I started to loose interest, and also winter was settling in. So it sat. I don't want to pull the collector... Then I picked up the HB camera probe thinking it would help. It did a little bit, but not enough. So pulled the middle gear cover again to see if I could locate the leak. With the help of the camera I checked every possible place it could be leaking oil. It was dry as a bone everywhere I looked. A couple of screws holding the gear indicator were a little loose so I snugged them up a bit. Not because there was evidence of oil coming from the area, but just because. Put the cover back on again making sure. If it still leaks the only place left would be the pan gasket or the pan itself might have a crack in it?? Anyway the search goes on. Now, while I've got stuff somewhat off the bike I decide to check the air cleaner and diaphragms. Other than not wanting to idle real well, the motor was running very solid.. I previously did adjust the idle screws on the two carbs I could get to without removing a bunch of stuff and it did help, so I figured once I get serious about tweeking the carbs the idle would clear up. So pull the air box lid. It's got a K&N. Cool... Weights a ton. Oil soaked. I take a long screw driver and check the slider movement. They're good. So I go ahead and fire up the bike. #4 diaphragm deader than a doornail. 2, 1 , and 3 are perkin' along just fine. Now remember the motors running strong. MOF while I got the lid off the box it's still running great??? I've never had one where the motor didn't run like poop with the lid off. It was like the filter and lid weren't even needed for this thing to perform.... on 3 cylinders to boot... Anyone else had a bike that acted like this?? I bought the bike from a small builder/dealer, who in turn bought it from a private party. I have no history or heresay on this bike. I asked the dealer to get the name of the guy he bought it from so I might get a little history, but he's never gotten back to me. The bike had all sorts of mods done to it externally, but I haven't got a clue as to what's been done internally. I guess it's going to be a discovery as needed thing?? The motor's got me buffalo'd. Could it be a V-Max? Or maybe V cam and heads?? I guess only time will tell. Meanwhile I gotta find this dang leak. I want to ride it to Cody.....
  8. Condor
    Maybe that's the reason my '83#3089 hauls ass. Checked the speedo against my GPS, and it's dead nutz on, at 4200rpm I'm running... if I remember correctly... +/- 75mph.
  9. Condor
    Very nice... Have a price yet?
  10. Condor
    This is something new. Need to know more Earl...
  11. Condor
    I ran acrossed this antenna manufacture that builds 'no ground' pretuned antennas. http://www.everhardtantennas.com/index.html
  12. Condor
    I'd say that right off hand you just haven't located the problem yet Jeremy. There are lots of 1stGens without solid engine mounts that don't have a wobble so I don't think solids are the answer either. As you said they will improve handling characterizes, but there's something else causing the wobble. Just guessing, but maybe worn rubber engine mounts, and new oem mounts might cure the problem, but if you're going to go thru the trouble of replacing the rubbers, you might as well go with the solids....??
  13. Condor
    No.... what I'm saying is that the FJR and the V-Max, like Squeeze mentioned, are the same ratio. I thought that was what the thread was sorta about V-Max final vs. FJR1300 final?? Maybe being up all night is taking it's toll........
  14. Condor
    Yeah the light bulb just turned on.... The washer's on the inside of the plastic slide. Doh!!! It's been a while since I've 'screwed' around with a diaphragm.... You younger guys need to keep watch over us OF's....Thanks!!!
  15. Condor
    '88 was the 5th year and some of the bikes had a different tank emblem denoting that. I'm not sure it there was a 'special' color or not?? When you dig into the clutch to check things out, put the bike on the side stand and there's no need to drain the oil. It'll all run over to the left side of the case. It might be a good idea to pick up a gasket before opening it up. Good luck. Hope it's the star....
  16. Condor
    Ya know, call me stupid...or what ever, but I'm having trouble getting a mental picture of what's going on with this washer mod, and why it increases MPG. As Randy stated he replaced the thick plastic washer which measured .123", with a stack of 3 ea. #4 washers that measured .93" thick. Now here's where I get into trouble. If the needle is shortened by the lower washer height, then wouldn't the jet be opening up quicker and increasing fuel delivery??? And wouldn't this cause mpg to decrease?? I'm befuzzled....
  17. Condor
    That's really interesting. Now we need to get some feedback on performance. I'm planing on putting a V-Max in the '91, and long as they're the same ratio???
  18. Condor
    I bet in the bright sun it'll blow your eyeballs out..... I used to have a custom 53 Ford painted metalic white. We just took standard Ford white and dumped a can of metalic in it. Wasn't sure what was going to happen. In the shade it looked kinda light gray, but in the sunlight it would blind you.... Looked cool.!!!... BTW the MAC's are lookin' good...
  19. Condor
    Being a 1stGen rider I'm the last one to ask that question, but... I'm sure there are a bunch of 2ndGen owners that'll chime in with some good advice. Just be prepared for a lot of ideas. It's kinda like asking what's the best oil....
  20. Condor
    Sorry Tommy. The braces are for the 83-93 model Ventures only. Running your front fork pressure a little higher might cure some of the 'wiggles' while carving a turn...?? Possibily going to a more agressive tire might help too...
  21. Condor
    I have a very soft leather aftermarket seat on the '83, and have done 600 mile days without any discomfort. I'm good for about 4 tanks... 150 miles each before starting to look for fuel and taking a fifteen minute break. I've also spent up to 11 hours straight in the saddle on it. Felt fine. I have a Corbin on the '91, but haven't taken any long rides on it yet. It sits roomier and feels good when I'm on it, even though it's a harder seat. Maybe it's because I have so much natural padding???
  22. Condor
    My '83 leans about 10 degrees beyond normal. Been doing it ever since I bought it about 4 years ago. I did swap out the sidestand for a newer one thinking it might help, and it did a bit, but not so much that it still doesn't lean quite a bit. Decide not to worry about it. No problems so far.
  23. Condor
    Progressive Springs Race Tech Springs and suspension Super Brace Bob Myer Brace Group Buy Brace There are many more. This is just a quick sample of what's available.
  24. Condor
    GUILTY!!!!!!!!!!!! Been like that all my life... :rotf:
  25. Condor
    I'd just like to make a few comments about the fork brace and after market fork springs designed for the 1stGen Venture as there’s some misconception about what exactly they will do. Will the brace cure the dreaded high speed ‘Tank Slap’ experienced by some riders? No. The brace is not a cure-all Band-Aid. If your bike is experiencing high speed wobbles or tank slap it’s because the bike has a problem(s). Bad front or rear tire cap, out of round tire, bent rim, out of balance tire, weak fork springs, bent fork(s), bent main frame, worn steering head bearings, worn fork seals, low fork oil, high fork oil, worn axle bearings, etc. What the fork brace will do, along with new springs, is enhance the bike’s handling performance. They will improve the bike’s overall ride and stability. It will make panic stops smoother and more manageable. The effects of pot holes, curve tracking, rough surfaces will be reduced. Side torque due to uneven rough surfaces will be greatly reduced. In some instances a slight rebound wobble from small differences in rebound action due to seal or spring wear, will be reduced or eliminated. However, inevitably they will only continue to wear over time and will need to be addressed. These two mods should be done to every 1stGen on the road today. One is the after market fork brace. The other is improved fork springs. Both parts are relatively inexpensive, and the mods easy to perform, but the improvement in handling is huge. The OEM fork brace is inadequate, and cosmetic at best. All First Generation Ventures are 16 to 25 years old and are going to have weak springs. It’s a given. Improvements in spring technology have basically made the new OEM springs obsolete. If anyone is still riding around with original springs and brace on your bike, you’re short changing yourself, and your ride experience.
×
×
  • Create New...