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Condor

Expired Membership
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Everything posted by Condor

  1. Carefull.... 1stGens have a habbit of breeding when left alone together. Don't ask me how I know this..... :rotf:
  2. An '84 with second gear gone is only worth about $500-$600 bucks. $1900 is good for one where the second gear has been repaired. Personally I'd keep shopping....
  3. I took a carb apart and put it in an ultrasonic cleaner just to see what it would do. Cleaned the 'H' out of it. All the pieces came out like new. I think Mike (MBrood) dipped all his in an US cleaner with great results.... The only problem I ran into was the size of the tub. I could only do one half of the body at a time. For the smaller parts it was a breeze... If I ever find a deal on a larger unit for a price I won't be passing it up... I also tried it on a couple of rusted parts and the rust just melted off. It was amazing to watch.
  4. If the price of gold keeps going up I can see pot holes starting to develope.... MOF that million probably came from the time when gold was valued at $350 an ounce. That highway is probably more like a 3 million dollar highway at todays prices....
  5. That's one of the loop rides we've been talking about doing next year at the Venture Round-Up in Durango Sept 13 - 16th. Thanks for the pics. Durango
  6. Condor

    Arizona

    Maybe this'll help with the weather. LAKE HAVASU
  7. Just downloaded mine. I did end up wading through a couple of what looked like subscriber pages before I finally got it to kick in. Nice thinking Randy.....
  8. Merry Christmas to you and Gary, and all the Cody Riders too, Deb. I'm not in the pic...which might be a good thing..., but you can always add my pic in there if you want. Don't know where I was at the moment...but it wasn't there...
  9. Yep, me too.... The website wants me to register...
  10. Good thing you had the bars horizontal when the spill occurred. However, just because it hit the floor and not the fairing, don't assume you didn't get any on the plastic. Even a speck will loosen paint the size of a pencil eraser. Wash the entire surface with water to kill any specks. ....don't ask me how I know that.... When filling the reserve turn the bars until it's level, and cover the area underneath the reserve with something to protect the cosmetics. Never.... I mean never fill a brake or clutch reserve all the way to the top. Hot expanded fluid needs someplace to go. It'll either cause your clutch to start slipping or the brakes to lock up. ALso the fluid is clear for a reason. The more moisture in the system the darker the fluid becomes. Moisture will cause system rusting problems. That's why the manual suggests replacing the fluid every 2 years, and bleeding the clutch and brake are one of the most neglected areas on a bike. Owners will go out and spend big bucks for synthetic engine oils and never look at the brake and clutch fluids. My 2¢
  11. I saw that one on the last flyer I received from HF. Looks like it'd work a lot better than the Mity-Vac. Anytime you can move fluid through the system faster than an air bubble can float it'll purge the air out.... No more pumping up the pressure and cracking the bleeder.... MOF I've found that when bleeding calipers after putting on new pads I don't even try to pump up the pressure to seat the pads until after I've purged all the air out. Then I'll close the bleeder and pump up the pressure. Works great when speed bleeders are installed.
  12. I sympathize with your position, but let 'm repo the bike. No '84 is worth $6000. Once you're back on you feet, and your life has settled down, there will be plenty of 1stGen MKII's available selling for a lot less. Also go get a lawyer and sue the cr*p out of them.
  13. Ya know I hate to rain on anybody's parade, and 'Goldie' is a nice looking bike, but how about popping $12 bucks to support the board?? You're listed as an 'expired trial member'. I thought 'trial' members didn't have posting privileges, but if wrong and even 'expired' trial's do, what gives???? Any moderator care to comment??
  14. Ahhh?? What's your point Gary?? :rotf:
  15. Why????
  16. Aha!!! Planed obsolescences. Hadn't thought of that....
  17. I've always wondered..... With all the techno smarts these designers have that they haven't pressurized the CPU. In other words, have the fan blow in with an easily cleanable filter and an exhaust port , instead of blowing out and sucking all the dust and cr@p into the box threw the cracks. I take a blower to the inside about once every six months and I'm amazed at the amount of dust one of these things collects.
  18. Air in the line will give you the spongies. Get a speed bleeder on that thing. Pump the pedal until the air's out. No more pump it up and crack the valve... repeat, etc... Just pump away and make sure you don't run out of fluid in the reserve. Once you have all the air out close the speed and pump til hard. If that doesn't give you braking power you might need a master rebuild..... PS: Also noticed you typed 'squeeze'. If you meant the foot pedal you ain't squeezin' and it's the fronts that need to be bled....
  19. Condor

    Tinnitus

    I have it. Nothing. If I try to hear it I do, but my brain filters it out if I don't pay any attention to it. The older I get the less it affects me. However 'Huh??' has become a permenent part of my vocabulary. I just wish folks would speak up and stop whispering... And.... I think all Canadians suffer from the ringing... Eh??
  20. That's what I did to my '83. MKII fork tubes with the 100mm wide mounting holes and R1 calipers. You'll also need to change out the rotors to MKII's as the MKI's are thicker with the internal cooling vanes. I don't think it's neccessary to de-link the front and rear brakes to gain stopping power. The R1's will do that for you. I also didn't wire up the anti-dives. With the Progressive Springs in there it takes care of the dive problem, and I'm a high center 350#, so if they're gonna dive it would be with me in the saddle. I'd have put Stainless lines on, but at the time I'd already spent enough money, so I'm still running the OEM's. Maybe someday??
  21. Condor

    Why?

    Yeah,... must be self induced censorship. Doesn't allow anything from the 'Why's Guys'.... Especially those from 'Why's Acres'
  22. Yep, the 83 to 85.... and I'm not real sure about the 85s??... are adjustable fore and aft. I pick up very clean sets off Ebay and install them on my MKII's. I pass on the uglies. When I bought the '93 it had a messed up shift lever..bent big time... Took a spare MKI shifter I had, and it bolted right up. The brake is also adjustable. Makes the pedal a lot more confortable.
  23. Just a little personal thinking on MC trailers, and one of the things Bushtec has that others lack. One of my pet peeves is that a lot of MC manufacturers don't build the bottom deep enough. I've seen quite a few trailer boxes designed so that the top lid and bottom are split equally with a shallow bottom load area. Even the Piggy is built that way. Now if I wanted to load things in there that wouldn't fall out everytime the lid is opened I'd want a deeper bottom with just a top cap type lid, and load that sucker up. The Bushtec is deep. That diamond plate aluminum trailer is built deep. A lot of the others aren't. So IMHO it might be something to look for when shopping for a trailer....
  24. Condor

    Why?

    Heck, I only have 4. Why's going on???? It's going to be a long...long....long......very long...long..long winter
  25. The MKI, 83 to 85, assemblies are interchangeable with the MKII's and will allow you to adjust the peg position forward and back about 3 inches, but the lowering part will need to be fabbed up. Maybe a piece of stainless plate with matching hole patterns.
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