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Condor

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Everything posted by Condor

  1. I had to install MKII rotors for the R1 calipers. The MKI's are cooled by internal viens and thicker, while the MKII's rely on gaps in the rotor face for cooling. The R1 calipers also don't have the pad dust cover like those found on the MKI caliper. I thought they might have been missing from the R1 set I had, but someone straightened me out...Squeeze I think....and they are left off for better air flow.
  2. Had the left carpal done this morning. The right was done last year about this time. Looking forward to hands on riding this summer. No more dead fingers. But.... the nurse says I have an irregular heart beat, need to see my primary care Dr.....
  3. Don't know about the fit, but the V-Max rear wheel is a 15" compared to the 1stGen at 16". Might present a problem with the speedometer readings.
  4. Since the MKII master on your '89 is the same size as the R1 master there isn't a need to up grade. The need to up grade would be for the smaller '83 MKI master, which from a lot of reports is inadiquate to begin with. In the case of the MKII/R1 mod it's the easiest mod to do. Just R&R the calipers and bleed, unless you feel a need to de-link the brakes. Personally with all the stuff that had to be done to my '83 I still didn't feel there was a need. At a later time I might replace the rear master with a MKII, but I'm going to have to do a little research to see if there's actually a difference between the rear I & II??
  5. That's not the way the Boxer R's are.... And I wouldn't want to be sitting on a BH at 65mph and punch it. Torque is torque, but I'm always willing to learn something. Your saying that once the bike is in gear, the torque is eliminated??
  6. That engine looks like a 350 chevy cut in half, and I'm not sold on the positioning. I bet there's a ton of torque the rider will need to deal with. When I got on my old BMW R100/7 that thing would want to drift to the right when I rolled on....even at high speeds. With 140horse I bet that thing will want to turn over....
  7. Looks like a pretty seedy place. Take backup.... 5805 pebblebeach blvd I've been stuck a couple of times over the years. Lost $10 bucks on a mag subscription, and was stiffed once by a non-pay buyer, and the buyer lived in Vegas... But it all worked out, I relisted the item, and it sold for a hundred bucks more the second time around. So 2 out of 550 transactions ain't too bad....
  8. One thing that has come out of this whole thing is that if anyone does the 83-85 to 86+ fork/R1/MKIIrotor transplant the brake master will need to be changed as well. The MKI master is smaller, and the MKII 14mm model master will be needed to match the 4 piston R1 caliper. I always thought the masters were the same.?? Also along that same vain if the anyone delinks the brakes so that the front master does all the work on 2X4 piston calipers, a larger 2ndGen master may be in order??? Gary I'm really impressed with the wealth of info you've been posting on this subject. Maybe a 2Gen owner can take a pic of their front master and post it??
  9. Wow!! All these stories about blown truck tires while riding next to a semi. I've put on several million road miles in company and personal cars over the years and have only been near one decapping. Lots of tread laying all over the place on the major roads, but only one blowout in real time. I used to think the chances of experiencing one was rare, but now after all these reports I think I've just been lucky. Same thing goes for traveling next to a semi. It's the luck of the draw, and it doesn't make any difference how fast or how slow you pass one. One can get caught in the crossfire at any time, fast or slow. So make sure your guardian bell is polished up....
  10. She's in our thoughts and prayers......
  11. Yep, I remember that thread, and thought about that as an option. But I had a set of these nice looking 2Gen masters laying here..... If it gets to be to much of a hastle I may just go with a set of clean MarkII's for the 14mm bore, which is the same as the R1/R6 master, to match the R1 Caliper. I might even go with a little larger MKII rear master but keep the rear MKI caliper. On the shim I thought I might check with Earl to see if he might be able to machine me up a couple of 7/8"ID to 1"OD shims out of aluminum. All this for a couple of cheesy sight glasses......
  12. I'd be intrested in what the R1 masters are in bore size also Gary. And it may very well be better to install a set of MKII masters to improve performance since they are a larger bore than the MKI's. In answer to Squeezes query about delinking the brakes. Nope, everything is '83 stock as a rock except for the R1 Caliper mod. Squeezes suggestion about trying an early set off an FJR1300 might be a better way to go?? I'll look into those as well. I just thought the G2 masters were better looking than what's on there, and one of those triple accessory switch housings from Kuryakyn would have been in the future.
  13. I think I do remember something like that, but usually I can't remember what I talked about yesterday let alone 18 months ago. This set of 2ndGens are off a '99. There isn't a whole lot of difference between 14mm and 15.87 in the bore size. 2mm isn't that much. I would think leverage would be a bigger factor on the hydralic caliper presure than volume. My brake lever compresses about 2"/50mm with the OEMs. Push 20% more fluid thru the line and it might reduce the throw to 1.5"/37mm?? ...Rough estimates... And remember I just installed the R1 front brake caliper. On the clutch master I don't think it makes all that much difference??? Thanks for the input Squeeze. I guess the only way to tell for sure is do the swap. If it's going to try and send me over the windshield I can always undo everything.
  14. I had thought about that and figured I'd just shim the 2ndGens.... I have some stainless 1" tubing... boat stuff ya know ... that should do the trick... How would the bigger piston effect the braking??
  15. OK, I'm thinkin' since both of the '83's sight glasses in the OEM master reserves are one step above swiss cheese I'd either replace them with another set of OEMs, or.... replace them with a set of 2ndGen masters and levers... which I have already. Has anyone ever comtimplated doing this, or possibly even done it?? Can anyone think of a reason why not?? Any input would be appreciated.... Thanks..
  16. Another thing I'm runing into is the 'go to first unread' function takes me to the first post instead of the first unread. Not sure if this is a result of the 'new posts' function, but it's a PITA....
  17. Get ahold of Rocket on this board. He just finished fixing Friesman's output bearing and seal on his '85. Don't let it go too long or you're going to have big problems.
  18. I don't like it. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
  19. All good suggestions, but the biggest cause of the voltage dropping to 10vdc is that at idle your stator isn't charging. Lights, AD's, radio, tape player, fan, all put a hell of a load on the battery, and if it doesn't have enough CC's to meet the demand you're going to draw it down quick. My sugestion, if you don't already have one, is a quality AGM battery, and keep the bike in a lower gear to keep the R's above 2000.
  20. Yep, my bad. And that's why I have a Classical. My hands are so big I can't finger the strings without touching the adjacent string on a classical and an acoustic is a joke.... And that's why I can only play a few cords...but it's still fun to drag the thing out every once in a while and plunk....
  21. http://www.icq.com/img/friendship/static/card_16961_rs.swf
  22. Should be a lot easier on the tips since an acoustic has a wider neck and the thin strings are nylon. It's those dang thin steel strings and narrow necks that'll getcha....
  23. Wouldn't your older BC/BS be on the hook since it's an ongoing claim, and the operatiion's already been approved by them. I think you need to go bang heads....
  24. If you're going to make an offer, take little bites. $100 bucks a crack. He may have a reserve of less than $8500..... No sense in tossing more at it than needed... I'm in agreement with others who've posted. For that kind of money the RSV midnight is a better bang for the buck...
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