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Condor

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Everything posted by Condor

  1. OK first off the '83... if it's OEM... has the vacume hose coming off a bib on the side of the #2 carb above the butterfly. The only year to do so. The hose goes to the boost sensor... yours has a hole in it. From there to the TCI it's electrical. The previous owner may have replaced the TCI with a later year and changed the vacume pick up to the #2 manafold. or.... he didn't know what he was doing. The running like cr@p could be a couple of things. The hole in the boost sensor.. main reason, .. the #2 carb bib may not be capped off, and these motors don't run worth a damn with the cover off the air cleaner box. Hope this helps a little.... Also the TCI is located underneath the plate in front of the batery box and behind the boost sensor. A ***** to get to. Most folks relocate it to the top of the air cleaner box when replacing. On the grime. Get a couple of cans of carb cleaner and spray the 'H' out of the carbs. Afterwords take some 'Deep Creap'... made by Sea Foam... and lube all the linkage and choke pistons, and anything else that moves. Carbs will get dirty over time and yours may never have been cleaned since they were installed at the factory??
  2. but it's something to talk about instead of shoveling snow..... http://www.wimp.com/ecomobiletests/
  3. Probably a better idea...not as much agitation.... DOH!!
  4. No Comment.....
  5. Yeah... that too....
  6. I refuse to post a comment to this thread....
  7. Haven't riden in quite a while, but the Nolan on the shelf was looking pretty ugly with bug juice remains and dust all over it. So not having anything fun to do for the time being I got out the can of Pledge and gave it the once over. Cleaned up well. Then I looked at the liner. Whew!!!!! Not a pretty sight. Lots of DNA laying everywhere. I'd never done it before but Nolan says the liner is removable for washing... so I did eventually get it out of the shell. Tossed it in the washer on gentle with a couple of towels. Came back a couple of hours later and dug the liner out. I wasn't going to toss it in the dryer... I ain't that dumb.... so shaped it close to what it originally looked like and set it aside to air dry. Some of the thin foam parts were chewed up on the edges, but not bad, so next time it's going to be a hand wash job. The labels were no longer black and unreadable, and it cleaned up pretty well. The hardest part was getting the liner back into the shell, but eventually I got it figured out. Next time I'll take a pic... Put the helmet back on the shelf, and lookin' good!!
  8. I have one self induced hair cut a year. Generally about the time the temp hits 85 deg.
  9. I've used it. Picked it up at the IMS show in San Mateo Ca in '06. Works pretty good. Makes ugly chrome shine and the sealer seams to do a good job maintaining. I've also used it on some plastics with equal success.
  10. Pray all goes well Rooster.....
  11. You don't need to remove the clutch slave.... I had the same problem when I rebuilt all the masters on the '83 when I first bought it. One of the allen heads busted off when R&Ring. Just remove the banjo fitting and that's it. If the threads are stripped there are several ways to repair once you have the engine out. If the Allen head's busted off I just drilled the head of mine off and pulled the slave. Then took a stud remover and got the rest of the screw out. All much easier when the engine is stitting on the bench.
  12. It's still under warantee. Take it to a dealer....??
  13. Ran into this auction in Woodland, just north of Sacramento. Apparently these can not be retailed in California, so it might keep the bidding down?? SCOOTERS
  14. I keep the Snap-On's in the roll-away, but for the bike kits I've been using Harbor Freight tools. Lately HB has been putting out some pretty nice tools for a third what Craftsmans would run. We don't even want to talk about Snap-On's... For a hundred bucks you can build a pretty nice metric set to stow on the bike and still have left overs. The only specialty tools you will need is for spark plug removal. What I've done is pick up a few 2ndGen tool kits off Ebay for the basics, because you can pick them up fairly cheap, and then add sockets and combos that you'll need. Works....
  15. Thanks for the info Brian. Looks like the kilo '84's were also the only year for the rotating choke control.
  16. Never heard the term 'bird-dog' before, but I'm real familiar with the term 'spiff'......
  17. I keep talking myself into buying one more bike..... I don't get commission checks either....
  18. What type of choke lever do you have? From the pics it looks like it might be the one that rotates in front of the left grip. I tried to blow up your pic but it fell apart and couldn't get a clear peek. The reason I'm asking is the bike might be an '84???? Or maybe Canadian '85's had the rotating lever instead of the slider under the hi'lo beam switch?? In the US the only model that came out with the rotating type choke.. in front of the grip.. were the '84's.
  19. My bad...I'm not doing to good today. What threw me was your saying the tab will work it's way out of the slot and allow the cover to rise. The only way that can happen is if the rear screw is loose, or the whole rear tab is busted off, and the cover slides forward. If it's intact the front tab will rattle around a bit, but should never come all the way out. I'd ask one of these salvers on Ebay and ask them if they have one of those gromets. It's generally left in the frame, and if it's taken out most of these guys haven't got a clue what it's for if they lay it down somewhere....
  20. Heck, at first I thought it was the one up in the carb linkage. I can see where #33 might be part of the whole return spring scheme, and if that's the one you're missing....there you go. Or are you actually missing a spring, or just wondering about the lack of one being listed in the carb schematics??? Only you know for sure which one you need. I don't....
  21. Boy, was I wrong and looking in the wrong place. For $4.27 I'd go ahead and pick one up....
  22. You not only need the washer but you'll need the compression sleeve. I suspect the reason your gromet is in such bad shape is you're compressing it to tighten the screw... probbly with a large washer on top and not getting it really tight. The sleeve will let you tighten down on the screw and keep it from squashing the gromet. The sleeve just slides inside the gromet and will easily sprout legs if not watched carefully.
  23. '98 Suburban. 5.7Vortec. 2Wheel Drive, 20-21 mpg. Tow Package. Love it. '92 F250 4X4. 7.3 IDI Diesel. Just drove it to Cody and back... Good luck in your search.
  24. I'm wondering??? If the sync is way off, and perhaps if one butterfly were open more than usual, would adjusting the idle screw be beneficial on that one carb. Wouldn't it be better to sync first and then adjust, and then maybe re-sync??? I can see the value of highest vacume at idle, to adjust the idle screws, but wonder if it does any good on a set that is way out of sync. Or am I missing something here??
  25. Going in Wednesday to get my Carpal stitches out. This is my second Carpal. The right hand was really bad and had it done last year. Took about 2 weeks before I could type again, and almost a year before I could twist the top off the pickle jar. This time around, with the left, I was one finger typing in 2 days and typing with all fingers in 4. It's been nearly 2 weeks now, and the wrist is almost pain free. So.... I hope your left will be like my left. BTW the operation took all of 20 minutes
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