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Everything posted by Condor
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I know how ya feel Jim. Own a 1stGen and you better know how to wrench. I can wrench with the best of them, but older I get the less I want mess with them. Most of the stuff you have listed is cosmetic. The not running right could be nothing more than plugs and a sync. Add a set of progressives to the front end and I bet the ride will be a lot better. That said, wrestling with a bike, making payments, and not getting any return, can get depressing. Making payments and riding will clear the head. I think I'd talk to the lender about that deal on the newer 2ndGen a little bit more. Just be carefull the bike doesn't have a whole mess of it's own problems...
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This one has been floating around the internet for a couple of years now. Nothing like stupid to clean out the gene pool.......
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:clap2:
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:thumbsup2:
- 25 replies
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- brace.happy34
- gonna
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I picked up a smaller one from HF, ITEM 93984-5VGA, and it may not give an accurate reading off the headers, but it will let you know if one isn't heating up like the others. IT does work very well on the office walls, ceiling, floor, stereo system, back of hand...... It is entertaining....
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Yep, me too.... Just not now. Gotta buy a set of tires first.
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WOW!!!
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I usually find sets on Ebay Annie.... Just search for 'R1 or R6 calipers'. Others have bought the kit from Earl. I'm not 100% sure but I feel they'll be a direct replacement for the OEM calipers. I'd check with Squeeze on this one to be sure.
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There's a couple of things you might try Annie. On braking with the rear brake removed, I think I'd take a look at installing R1 calipers. If your calipers are the same as OEM US you only have 2 pistons each, and only on one side of the caliper. R1's will give you better 4 piston braking, and not wear out one side pad faster. It's a must do on the new2me '99. On bleeding the brakes. Here's a copy of the 'reverse bleed' process for the clutch, but in your case it would work equally as well for the front brakes. Reverse bleeding is done by forcing DOT fluid into the bleeder valve and forcing the air up the line and into the reserve. This can be done several ways. If you have a Speed-Bleeder installed it will have to be removed. If you have a regular bleeder, the reverse bleed can be done with the valve in and open, or you can remove the valve like a speed-bleeder. I find the removal of the valve the easiest. Take a rubber ear wax remover blub that you can find in your local drug store and snip the tip off a little bit at a time until it fits into the threads of the removed valve. It should fit snuggly and the opening should be a bit off the bottom of the hole in the caliper. Remove all the fluid in the reserve. Suck up enough new fluid to fill the bulb, insert it in the threads of the slave and force the fluid into the slave. Keep an eye on the reserve to make sure it doesn’t overflow. Not good. Sometimes you can hear bubbles as they make their way out of the line and into the reserve. If the bulb runs out of fluid it can be reloaded. The hole can be blocked off with your finger while refilling. When no more bubbles appear stick the bleeder valve back into the slave, adjust the level of the fluid in the reserve to about half full, replace the reserve top and you’re good to go. This whole process can be done in about 15 minutes. When done go for a ride. PS: After first opening up the reserve, lightly squeeze the clutch lever a tad. The surface of the fluid in the reserve should deform slightly. Squeeze hard and you’ll end up with fluid on you and the bike. Not good. What this shows you is that the expansion orifice is clear and functioning. If it’s plugged the hot expanded fluid will have no place to go, and start to push on the slave as if you were actually pulling the lever. The clutch will start to slip. This is also why the reserve should be only filled half way. I have seen owners spend a lot of money rebuilding their clutches, and all the reserve had was a plugged expansion hole. Hope this helps
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- 7 replies
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- cool10cool10cool10
- dealership
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Interesting thread. I've had the '83 up in the high eights a few times, but I haven't had a chance to get the '99 up there yet. If and when I do bump into the rev limiter I'll do something about it. Untill then I'll try not to think about it..... Isn't there some sort of Power Commander that can be added to the bike to change power curves and red line a bit??
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:thumbsup2: After getting a look at the manual it isn't for the '83VR, but for 85 and later years. I really wanted it to be... hoped... that it would address the aftermarket unit originally sold for the '83-'84. Still good to have and should handle a lot of questions '85 to '93.
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That thread was written up by Jercoupe. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16960
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Well he!! Dan. Pull the plugs and set them at 2 1/2 turns out, and sync them.
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running boards vs pegs?? anyone help?
Condor replied to somedudenamedev's topic in General Tech Talk
All 1stGen peg assemblies are the same bolt pattern. MI thru MKII. -
Holy Cow!!!!!!!! I'm surprized they didn't include exposure to air....
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Yep, like that.....
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I think you guys should start a millium registry. # and owner name and state. I bet Don could give some space to one on this board.....
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engine temp n hesitation upon starting
Condor replied to somedudenamedev's topic in General Tech Talk
OK, I could be wrong here, but I think I read somewhere that when a wire gets hot the resistence increases. Dirty connections will also cause this. On an undersized starter cable this may be the reason for the hesitation. Get with LoneStarMedic and ask him about the starter cable mod. -
Ask GeorgeS about the time we were riding thru Wyoming with thunder storms and rains all around us, with 65 mph cross winds on a two lane highway, and 18 wheelers coming from the opposite direction. Exciting....
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Give this a shot Dan. I had the sluggish return to idle on the '91, and that was after tossing a sync at it. It acted just like a vacuum leak. I reset the idle jet to 2.5 turns out, and then backed way off all the sync screws. Then I fired the bike up and adjusted the idle to 1000rpm on #2. With that set I adjusted the sync screw on #1 until the idle rpm started to barely increase, and then backed it off a smudge. Then I let the engine get up to running temp. Turned it off and connected the Carb-Tune. Fired it back up and #2 and #1 were almost perfect...just needed a very small tweak to get them equal. All the while the engine idled like cr@p. The sync on #4 and #3 were so far out it wasn't even funny. Well maybe it was... One rod all the way at the bottom and the other all the way to the top. I started turning sync screws and they started to balance. When they did the idle started to climb toward 2000rpm. When it got over 2000, I backed the #2 idle screw off to 1000 again. Careful it can get warm in there... I kept fiddling with the the right side screws until I got #4 and #3 balanced. Then I balanced the right side to the left. Readjusted the idle one last time, and the motor runs great. Responsive and returns to idle like it's supposed to. Basically it's starting a sync from scratch. BTW while tweaking the right side screws the motor giggled, farted and backfired until things started to come together. Don't let it scare you, just keep adjusting.
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Too much whine:?
Condor replied to GOINtoHELL's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Now that I have a 2ndGen... I don't know if it has the 'whine' yet.. it's new2me and it's been raining. But I've had the idea of pulling the clutch basket out and replacing it with a clutch assembly out of a 1stGen with Barnet springs. My '83 had a 'once-in-a-while' whine, but it wasn't unpleasant, and it was sporadic. Anyway it's something to think about??? -
Too much whine:?
Condor replied to GOINtoHELL's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Thanks for doing that video and youtubing it. Now I know what that whine sounds like. I think it sounds more like a chirp than a whine, but to each his own. I'd get the I basket. Like water torture one little drop of water on the forehead can become a sledge hammer over time. Loud mufflers can mask the noise but they're just a bandaid, and can cause other issues. It would be the same thing as some of these kids with the loud music playing in their cars. We have enough just dealing with with windnoise, and that whine could add to that effect.