Condor

I have XM lifetime in my Titan. It's great. Most of the time I bounce around 6-7-8 oldies and 114. I can listen to the same station from coast to coast. No more leaving the radio on scan while traveling across Nevada.

It looks pretty good to me.... A low mile '86. The rear brake work in a no brainer... but should be worth a couple of hundred off the asking?? It also looks like the tread of an EII, and although they are one tuff tire, they're old and should be replaced.... 'Nuther couple of hundred...

I don't usually mention any of my problems 'cause I figure other folks needed the prayers more than I did.. However getting old does have it's disadvantages. The body just wears out. So I just saw a Cardiologist yesterday morning to give me the low-down on an EchoKG that I had Sunday before last. My first thoughts were it's gotta be something minor 'cause every time in the past the ticker checked out great. The latest battery of tests just 6 years ago, just before the colon surgery. Well dang!! Not this time. One of my chambers is pumping at 30% efficiency.. One of the reasons I get tired so easily, and don't have any energy lately. And what really bugs me is I can't catch my breath and complete a yawn... Grrr!! Nothing like a good ol' yawn... So it's a scary thing. Especially when the Doc starts telling me the possibilities of what could go wrong if they have to do an Angioplasty (?)... We're gonna try meds first but if no improvement in 6 weeks it's off to the O.R. So keep me in your thoughts and I'll keep you posted....

This report will be interesting Puc. I don't chew up the miles like you do, but a few folks do. My E3's on the 99rsv have about 5,000 on them and they still look great, so I'll probably never wear them out. Now.... If you go to Leatherby's and don't call me I'm gonna be ticked.... :-) http://www.cast-aways.com/CONDORPICS/Sam-Side.jpg

The way it scoot is rigged with a side car horse hauler it didn't look all the dangerous at the speed he was traveling. The only problem I could see was the side hauler dragging it's tail, and apparently he's done this before since the side car was built to do it....

I could have posted a copy of the Preamble, or the Constitution, or the Bill of Rights... I just felt that the meaning of the Pledge of Allegiance kinda sez it all. I really don't give a hoot about when it was written, or when 'under God' was added. It's what it means and what stands for......IMHO.....

THE REASON..... Enjoy the day....

I'd tend to agree with you too Carl,,,,, but it would take a lot more presure to compress the bubbles than what's applied in the clutch system. In the brakes it works but that's a whole 'nuther animal... MOF a bubble is more buoyant when uncompressed... Compress a bubble enough and it will become soluble and will go nowhere.... I'm a big fan of reverse bleeding the clutch. It takes 15-20 minutes and it's a done deal....

I've said this before and I guess I need to say it again. Holding the lever back against the grip over night will NOT let the air escape from the system. It's a physical impossibility... When the lever is pulled back the master plunger closes off both the expansion and the feeder holes between the base of the reserve and the piston. When the lever is at rest the plunger lip sits behind of the expansion and in front of the feeder (larger) hole, and any air in the system will rise and hopefully make it into the master cylinder, and bleed out thru the expansion hole...if it doesn't get stuck behind the banjo bolt... That's why some folks give up and come back the next morning and all is good with the world again... It's just the sitting over night that sometime helps. When the air is hung up behind the banjo the jiggling will let the air escape a tiny bit at a time, and sometimes that's good enough. All this takes time. As mentioned previously forcing the fluid into the slave and carefully filling the reserve will save a lot of time and frustration. Once the air is out of the system normal bleeding will take care of the bi-yearly job....

So far I've been lucky, my '99 and '07 don't whine, but I had a friend stop by with his low mile '99 and when he left you could hear it a block away. So the whine varies from bike to bike, and probably the more miles the quieter it gets?? There hasn't been a lot of discussion about the 'I' basket mod for quiet some time since our bikes started accumulating the miles.. It used to be a hot topic.. I kinda liked the sound that my '83 1stGen had, and it wasn't all the time. Just on occasion, but when it did it was mild, and sounded like a turbo....

I don't think anyone has mentioned the tilt kill switch. It may be stuck when the guys buddy dropped the bike??

OK Gotta ask... Why??

WOW!! That bike is loaded. With all the space in those saddles and trunk plus what's tied to the top and the trailer rack, it's amazing that the rear's only half gone..... I'd almost be tempted to go to the dark side......

Yeah, I re-read it again, and even I got confused... :-) Sorry 'bout that...

I bet one of those TV camera back-up systems would help a bunch....

Yep. Have to agree with 7 tho-... In the world of a properly maintained braking system, it will be trouble free...sorta.. But that's the optimum, and in real life it ain't necessarily so... In real life the DOT will start to absorb moisture from the get-go, and the more moisture the quicker and greater it will expand over time under heat producing scenarios. Long down hills, hi-speed braking, etc. Unless there is enough room for the fluid to expand into the reserve, the front or back brakes will lock up. Once a pad starts dragging it's pretty much down hill to a lock up. So the ticket here is to bleed the brake system every couple of years. And in regards to 7 not getting the correlation between the clutch and the brake fluid expanding... they both take the same DOT fluid and operate in heat producing environments.... He'll understand once his clutch starts to slip.... :-)

Ya think that one's linked and the other's not might have something to do with it?? :-)

In motorcycle braking heat is generated by pad friction, and by the slave mounted on the block of the motor with a clutch. DOT will expand enough in the caliper or slave area to lock up the brakes, and extreme heat won't even be felt at the brake lever. The service manual suggests that the DOT be replaced every two years for very good reason....

Flip a coin... I tow my 2Gen in an open trailer, and it tows great. Then I decided to customize the interior of my 8x16 Wells Cargo with rugs on the walls and floor, T-track, and hold downs, plus 3 HF trailer chocks to use as a garage during the winters for all 3 of my 2's, and to tow somewhere if needed. Well forget that. I now have the nicest trailer full of 'stuff', and the bikes are still in the tent..

Some of the 2Gens do have a touchy rear brake, and a few have taken a dump... Rick Butler designed a delay valve to fix the problem, but I'm not sure he ever got it into production. The weaker pads may be one answer. With all this rhetoric about boosting the rear brake efficiency I kinda wonder if some may be ignoring the fronts since a high percentage of the stopping power and traction comes from the fronts during braking application. I also wonder in the weight transfer dynamics during a stop, where the rear actually gets lighter and the tire has less traction, would cause the rear tire to lock up quicker??

I put a set of R1 blue dots on the front of my '83 because it really needed help. Left the back one OEM and didn't rebuild a thing. And yes I did swap out the front forks and rotors for a set from an '86 MKII with progressives. Everything worked great, and one of the best handling scoots I'd ever ridden....

What I don't understand is why they disappeared when wet, but are under the clear coat??

A BIG Vicarious.....

What a great idea Eck.... Now all I have to do is find a wife or.... girlfriend..

You and me Chuck.... Hang 'm High.. :-)