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Condor

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Everything posted by Condor

  1. On the clutch reserve level. You do not want to fill the reserve almost to the top... ever.... That clutch slave sits right on the engine casing and the fluid will expand when it gets hot. With no place to go the slave will start pushing on the clutch, causing it to start slipping.... Half full is plenty.
  2. Since putting in the FJR final have you noticed any appreciable difference in the MPG??
  3. Didn't someone make a reducer/adapter for those things??? Used when Harley Road Kings were installed...
  4. Oooops!! While looking at the pics I noticed 4 small edges that I'd missed masking off. They're silver now, but not perfect... Good thing 65mph cures blems....
  5. This post is about a subject that started on the diamond cut thread, and rather than hi-jacking the thread I thought it would be better to start another. I picked up a spare set of 2ndGen head fins with the idea that I might paint them black for a different look. After seeing the diamond cut examples I decided to go another direction. #1 because I'm not sold on the Diamond look, and #2 I'm broke... So this morning I stopped by my local auto paint supplier and picked up a roll of 1/8" Fine-Line masking tape, I then dropped by BriteTex, my favorite polisher, and discussed some options. We came up with some great ideas. Like grinding the fin edge flat, and buffing it to a mirror gloss.... and just buffing the edge out. Both options were over 100 bucks... too expensive So I decided to just go ahead and try taping the existing edge finish and see what happens. I also decided to do only one fin and then do the rest if the first one worked out. Attached is a running pictorial of what I did. There were some mistakes made that can be corrected on later efforts, but at 65mph they shouldn't be noticable. The over all look on the bike will happen a little later on, and I'll post pics of the finished product then. Cost.... $37 bucks for the fins, $9 bucks for the tape, and 10 bucks for a couple of cans of paint. $56 dollars total. I kinda like the look so far.
  6. Yeah I thought of that Russ, but I want to get a better edge which I don't think I'm capable of getting it with the vasoline....or anything else for that matter that's applied free hand.... What I have tried in the past, to eliminate any bleeding under the tape, is to first shoot the tape with a clear and then the color. The clear will bleed under any problem spots and seal them. Works pretty well when dealing with an irregular surface.
  7. The '83 does not have the dimmer and the gear indicator. The '84 and '85 have Venture Cruise in green lettering on the tach. I don't know if they will work or not, but there is a cosmetic difference, and there might be a compatability issue.. different plugs etc.. Besides there are far more used MKII dashes available. Have you successfully put an '83 dash in a MKII bike? Or an '84-'85 dash, where you can definitely state that it will be a plug'n'play?? Like I previously stated, get a MKII (86-93) if needed.
  8. Nope they won't. Totally different CMU cluster in the MKII's. I suppose one could adapt one to fit the other, but why try to re-invent the wheel? Get a MKII dash if needed and be done with it.....
  9. Since the speedo is mechanical and the CMU is electrical I wonder if someone may have already been in there and failed to connect everything up?? Or the bike went for a swim... Anyway don't get talked into buying a MKI. MKII only.
  10. Could be the slave, but make absolutely sure you have all of the air out of the line first. With a few trapped bubbles you won't get 100% slave travel when you pull on the lever. Also, if you find it is the slave, don't rebuild, get a new one. See Rick at Buckeye. The last time I picked one up from Rick it didn't cost a heck of a lot more than the rebuild kit... Something like $42 bucks for the kit and $65 for a new slave...
  11. Ya know, I don't want to toss a wet rag on this, but I really don't like the look. It's definately different, and I can see where it will make the scoot stand out in a crowd. I also have an extra set of covers and am going to try masking off just the edge of each fin and shooting them semi-flat black. In my minds eye it will look cleaner and not as busy. I checked with out local auto paint supplier and they have Fine-Line masking tape in 1/8" so that's where I'm headed this AM. I'll take some before and afters and post them when I'm done.
  12. Thanks for the link. I too thought it was a little long... short attention span.... but still worth coping the text to a .doc file and saving it for future info....
  13. http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/human4m/Misc%20stuff/NoBears.jpg LOOK IT SAYS RIGHT HERE.... IF IT JINGLES AND SMELLS LIKE PEPPER SPRAY.....
  14. Arrgh!! I'm blind... Where's my welder helmet..... Just kidding.... :thumbsup2:
  15. I have. A 1stGen MKI is the fastest of 'm all....
  16. Ok would you please explain to me why there's a huge mechanical advantage gain by using the smaller 14mm master over the larger OEM 5/8ths (15.87mm) master on an RSV?? I always understood that the mechanical advantage came from the lever configuration, and the voluum came from the master bore... I'm always ready to learn.
  17. Gotcha covered Walt. PM'd ya....
  18. OK, I bought this mintish Silver Nolan 1002 X-Lite Flip to match my '99 off ebay from a local seller. It's marked size is an xxl, and I never tried it on when I picked it up. When I got back to the barn I gave it a try, and it ain't a xxl. I have two Nolan xxl's and this one isn't. I don't even think it's a XL.... probably more like a L. So here's the deal. I picked it up for $71.00, which is a great price. So, thought I'd give this a shot. Anyone here interested in it for $71 bucks plus shipping??... unless your close by, and can pick it up like I did... LMK
  19. No. The AIS valve doesn't effect the manafold vacuum.
  20. As more time is spent in the saddle the more I'm getting used to the HT. I guess I'll arrive when I don't think about it any longer. Just do it. I'm still searching for the pegs when I take off from a stop, and sometimes hit the heel shift with my toe. End up shifting up to second kinda quick. Vic (Lone Eagle) did some measuring of his Starline toe shifter for comparison. The length of the toe arm is almost the same, but the ball connector is 1" farther up the arm. I guess it makes the movement needed to shift shorter. Might be something to think about when cutting off the heel....
  21. When I did the '83, I kept the stock... smaller... OEM master, and there was still a big increase in the upgrade to the right front. I also didn't do a thing to the rear linked master or the rear caliper for the left front, and it worked just fine with better braking. With 14mm actually being smaller than the larger RSV 5/8ths master, why would you want to decrease the size when you have 4 more pistons to move with the R1's??
  22. Thanks for the advice Ruffy. I already have a set of R1's loaded with new HH pads. Picked them up off Ebay for next to nothing. R1 and R6 calipers are always on there. I think I'll leave the back alone as some already have a tendency to lock up when romped on. I haven't hit 'm hard yet, but you never know. Speed bleeders too....
  23. Hey, I caught that 'yet'. Be prepared.... Didn't take the bike. Should have, but didn't. The truck has A/C, and the conditions didn't meet my riding criteria. Temp 50-85... and dry..... I really enjoyed meeting Rick, and I could see him start to light up when we began talking about dark matter, speed of light, gamma and x-rays etc. He knew what he was talking about..... I knew enough to get into trouble.... I spent a week in Texas one day. If I ever get to Lubbock we'll have to test the ice cream....
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