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Condor

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Everything posted by Condor

  1. So, if I understand you right, the idea was to decrease front brake lock up by using the 5/8" master, which is a good thing, but by reducing the size of the rear master they've created a situation were rear lock up is not that uncommon. and panic high-siding is a possiblity.... which is a bad thing. So why not at least stick with the 5/8" front master and reduce the possibility of locking up the fronts?? And reducing the sensitivity to the rear delaying the sudden high PSI flow via Rick Buttler's mod?? Or... find a larger rear master that's compatable??
  2. Then.... since Y chose to use the 14mm on so many different models, why did they use the 5/8" on the heavy RSV??
  3. OK, I can see where you're going with this, but I'm not completely sold on the big difference between the two masters. We're talking about less than a 2mm bore increase. I understand that Y uses the 14mm on their lighter sport bikes, and because they are a lighter bike they might not need the bigger master. Going to the R1 or R6 on the RSV does increase the number of pistons from 2 to 4, and I'm sure that does come into play with better braking performance. That's the reason for going to the R1/R6's in the first place. I guess I'll just have to find out for myself if there actually is a positive result in the switch, and if I'm wrong I'll definately know what to do..... Thanks
  4. 8 Total. 2/83's, 1/83_84, 1/87, 1/90, 1/91, 1/93, 1/99, plus 1/88 and 1/91 spare motors. That adds up to a lotta spark plugs, and tires....
  5. Our families did it about 4 years ago and musta lucked out. One stop for 15mins and that was it. Smoothe sailing otherwise. You folks have a great trip....
  6. I'm surprised that no one's mentioned Glacier yet. Staying at Mariners on Flathead Lake puts you in it's back yard..... Brother lives in Kalispell...
  7. I haven't used it yet... don't even know if I can, but while messing around, and looking at routes to Cody on Google and emailing them to myself, I noticed that there's a GPS option, as well as the Email, and another that I can't remember right now. So I clicked on the GPS and it gave a Garmin Option. Clicked on it and it brought up the Garmin upload program, and it started looking for a GPS to load the route to. I didn't have anything hooked up so I just got out of the upload area. I have a Street Pilot c550, and I don't know if it'll take a route upload, but it's worth a try the next time I go on a ride-about.
  8. Does the engage point change when it warms up??
  9. Actually there is a way that the front tab can come out of the gromet. The front part of the cover isn't the stiffest in the world, and can actually flex enough to move the bottom edge the 3/4" it would need to come out of the hole. However that's highly unlikely. You might try bending the gromet flange a little farther forward and see if that helps. Maybe it got bent back in another lifetime?? I've had my '83 up to 120mph and never had a problem.... and I have a big washer holding the rear down...no tab.
  10. Ponch... do they make those fittings in Stainless??? And is that a new oil line???
  11. IF your rear tab is not broken off, and the gromet tab is not worn down, there's no way the cover will come off... with or without the gromet. Without the gromet the cover will shake a bit.
  12. A clutch shouldn't be that grabby. 1/8" off the grip to full on is not right. It basically means your pack is barely releasing. Maybe that's what happens when you remove the 1/2 discs?? If it were me I'd go back to OEM. I hate to say this, but pull the clutch pack and reassemble. You might have put something in wrong. While you have the pressure plate off hold your finger over the push rod while gently squeezing the lever to check and see if you have enough movement to move the throw out bearing. IF there's very little movement you have a slave side issue. IF you get a lot of movement then it's a clutch pack issue.... BTW make sure you have the pressure plate in the right position. Rotate it around to different positions until it seats flush on the disc.
  13. Geeze, that's no fun at all. Chalk another one up for 1stGens.... What do we have to do when changing fork oil??
  14. One of the big improvements to the 2ndGen when installing Progressives is front end dive when stopping. I've noticed the front end on the '99 is mushy when hitting the brakes... Been thinking about Progressives. However... after reading this thread I gotta wonder, Why does the whole front end have to come off to install them?? If that's the case I may just let'r dive. I don't know if this is normal or not, but on the 1stGen it really makes a difference. Most don't even hook up the anti-dives afterwards....
  15. You can simulate air flow by blowing compressed air through the venturi.. It won't be exact but it will show if you're getting fuel....make sure you have fuel in the bowl. You can also blow air across the oval opening at the top of the venturi to see if you're getting slide movement from your diaphragm.
  16. Thanks guys.....
  17. Can you take off the 'Dog Bone' motor mounts without having to prop up the engine??? Basically I need to know if they're functional or cosmetic like the fins... Maybe one side at a time will be OK??
  18. How about better pics and some more info... Is it a Standard or a Royale? Hard Core 1stGeners would like to know.... Without some idea of what it is, there's no way of telling what a fair price would be. And nope, it ain't even worth $3500. Bling ain't bringing what it used to...
  19. Putting all the technicals aside, and lets get back to basics. You say you have spark, and you have fuel. You should be getting ignition. Change the plugs. Weak plugs will break down under compression. If everything checks out like you say it does then it will run. BTW, although true, a non-igniting cylinder will have manafold vacuum, it won't be any where near the vacuum produced by the draw of hot gases exhausting out of a firing cylinder. When syncing after changing the plugs try backing off all the sync adjustment screws. Start from scratch by setting the idle with the #2 carb without any influence from 1,4, and 3.
  20. Ok, have one question. How can you have a perfect sync when two of the carbs are not firing?? OK two questions. How are you adjusting the idle when it's set by the #2 carb? The #2 carb is the benchmark when syncing.
  21. I hate to toss water on this thing but $4000 for an '83VR is just a tad to much if you really want to sell it, and from the pics I can't tell if it's a standard or Royale. It looks shiney, but for that kind of money it better have less than 1000 on the odo.
  22. I've been thinking along the same lines lately, but looking at one for around $100-$115 bucks at Harbor Freight. I don't need something for $500 bucks that's maybe going to be used 1-2 times a year. Case in point. The ramp grate on my bike hauler is coming apart in a few places and I'd like to retack them again. Not a big deal. It would be kinda convienent to do it here rather than having to drag it down to the local muffler shop and get it done.... My 2¢
  23. I think it's a sign of the times. Noticed the same thing today. Out of 50-60 bikes passed on a 2 hour ride I got a wave from 3-4 cruisers. So it didn't make any difference what they were riding..... Way back in the day there weren't as many riders out and about. You were lucky to see 4 or 5 all day long, and of course we waved. We were brothers. Today there are so many, the camaraderie has worn off into indifference...
  24. Thought of that, but holding a clean line would have been impossible....
  25. I wonder if something didn't happen the first part of this year. According to his feedback on ebay he was doing great, 100% positive, and then in January things started going down hill....
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