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Condor

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Everything posted by Condor

  1. Can you take off the 'Dog Bone' motor mounts without having to prop up the engine??? Basically I need to know if they're functional or cosmetic like the fins... Maybe one side at a time will be OK??
  2. How about better pics and some more info... Is it a Standard or a Royale? Hard Core 1stGeners would like to know.... Without some idea of what it is, there's no way of telling what a fair price would be. And nope, it ain't even worth $3500. Bling ain't bringing what it used to...
  3. Putting all the technicals aside, and lets get back to basics. You say you have spark, and you have fuel. You should be getting ignition. Change the plugs. Weak plugs will break down under compression. If everything checks out like you say it does then it will run. BTW, although true, a non-igniting cylinder will have manafold vacuum, it won't be any where near the vacuum produced by the draw of hot gases exhausting out of a firing cylinder. When syncing after changing the plugs try backing off all the sync adjustment screws. Start from scratch by setting the idle with the #2 carb without any influence from 1,4, and 3.
  4. Ok, have one question. How can you have a perfect sync when two of the carbs are not firing?? OK two questions. How are you adjusting the idle when it's set by the #2 carb? The #2 carb is the benchmark when syncing.
  5. I hate to toss water on this thing but $4000 for an '83VR is just a tad to much if you really want to sell it, and from the pics I can't tell if it's a standard or Royale. It looks shiney, but for that kind of money it better have less than 1000 on the odo.
  6. I've been thinking along the same lines lately, but looking at one for around $100-$115 bucks at Harbor Freight. I don't need something for $500 bucks that's maybe going to be used 1-2 times a year. Case in point. The ramp grate on my bike hauler is coming apart in a few places and I'd like to retack them again. Not a big deal. It would be kinda convienent to do it here rather than having to drag it down to the local muffler shop and get it done.... My 2¢
  7. I think it's a sign of the times. Noticed the same thing today. Out of 50-60 bikes passed on a 2 hour ride I got a wave from 3-4 cruisers. So it didn't make any difference what they were riding..... Way back in the day there weren't as many riders out and about. You were lucky to see 4 or 5 all day long, and of course we waved. We were brothers. Today there are so many, the camaraderie has worn off into indifference...
  8. Thought of that, but holding a clean line would have been impossible....
  9. I wonder if something didn't happen the first part of this year. According to his feedback on ebay he was doing great, 100% positive, and then in January things started going down hill....
  10. On the clutch reserve level. You do not want to fill the reserve almost to the top... ever.... That clutch slave sits right on the engine casing and the fluid will expand when it gets hot. With no place to go the slave will start pushing on the clutch, causing it to start slipping.... Half full is plenty.
  11. Since putting in the FJR final have you noticed any appreciable difference in the MPG??
  12. Didn't someone make a reducer/adapter for those things??? Used when Harley Road Kings were installed...
  13. Oooops!! While looking at the pics I noticed 4 small edges that I'd missed masking off. They're silver now, but not perfect... Good thing 65mph cures blems....
  14. This post is about a subject that started on the diamond cut thread, and rather than hi-jacking the thread I thought it would be better to start another. I picked up a spare set of 2ndGen head fins with the idea that I might paint them black for a different look. After seeing the diamond cut examples I decided to go another direction. #1 because I'm not sold on the Diamond look, and #2 I'm broke... So this morning I stopped by my local auto paint supplier and picked up a roll of 1/8" Fine-Line masking tape, I then dropped by BriteTex, my favorite polisher, and discussed some options. We came up with some great ideas. Like grinding the fin edge flat, and buffing it to a mirror gloss.... and just buffing the edge out. Both options were over 100 bucks... too expensive So I decided to just go ahead and try taping the existing edge finish and see what happens. I also decided to do only one fin and then do the rest if the first one worked out. Attached is a running pictorial of what I did. There were some mistakes made that can be corrected on later efforts, but at 65mph they shouldn't be noticable. The over all look on the bike will happen a little later on, and I'll post pics of the finished product then. Cost.... $37 bucks for the fins, $9 bucks for the tape, and 10 bucks for a couple of cans of paint. $56 dollars total. I kinda like the look so far.
  15. Yeah I thought of that Russ, but I want to get a better edge which I don't think I'm capable of getting it with the vasoline....or anything else for that matter that's applied free hand.... What I have tried in the past, to eliminate any bleeding under the tape, is to first shoot the tape with a clear and then the color. The clear will bleed under any problem spots and seal them. Works pretty well when dealing with an irregular surface.
  16. The '83 does not have the dimmer and the gear indicator. The '84 and '85 have Venture Cruise in green lettering on the tach. I don't know if they will work or not, but there is a cosmetic difference, and there might be a compatability issue.. different plugs etc.. Besides there are far more used MKII dashes available. Have you successfully put an '83 dash in a MKII bike? Or an '84-'85 dash, where you can definitely state that it will be a plug'n'play?? Like I previously stated, get a MKII (86-93) if needed.
  17. Nope they won't. Totally different CMU cluster in the MKII's. I suppose one could adapt one to fit the other, but why try to re-invent the wheel? Get a MKII dash if needed and be done with it.....
  18. Since the speedo is mechanical and the CMU is electrical I wonder if someone may have already been in there and failed to connect everything up?? Or the bike went for a swim... Anyway don't get talked into buying a MKI. MKII only.
  19. Could be the slave, but make absolutely sure you have all of the air out of the line first. With a few trapped bubbles you won't get 100% slave travel when you pull on the lever. Also, if you find it is the slave, don't rebuild, get a new one. See Rick at Buckeye. The last time I picked one up from Rick it didn't cost a heck of a lot more than the rebuild kit... Something like $42 bucks for the kit and $65 for a new slave...
  20. Ya know, I don't want to toss a wet rag on this, but I really don't like the look. It's definately different, and I can see where it will make the scoot stand out in a crowd. I also have an extra set of covers and am going to try masking off just the edge of each fin and shooting them semi-flat black. In my minds eye it will look cleaner and not as busy. I checked with out local auto paint supplier and they have Fine-Line masking tape in 1/8" so that's where I'm headed this AM. I'll take some before and afters and post them when I'm done.
  21. Thanks for the link. I too thought it was a little long... short attention span.... but still worth coping the text to a .doc file and saving it for future info....
  22. http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/human4m/Misc%20stuff/NoBears.jpg LOOK IT SAYS RIGHT HERE.... IF IT JINGLES AND SMELLS LIKE PEPPER SPRAY.....
  23. Arrgh!! I'm blind... Where's my welder helmet..... Just kidding.... :thumbsup2:
  24. I have. A 1stGen MKI is the fastest of 'm all....
  25. Ok would you please explain to me why there's a huge mechanical advantage gain by using the smaller 14mm master over the larger OEM 5/8ths (15.87mm) master on an RSV?? I always understood that the mechanical advantage came from the lever configuration, and the voluum came from the master bore... I'm always ready to learn.
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