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Condor

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Everything posted by Condor

  1. That helped a bunch Brad... Imagine a member actually making a video....of Bubs!! I just got the tips to release their grip on the baffle. Lots of penetrating oil and a dead fall hammer. Bub is located just up the hill from me in Grass Valley. I called them, and apparently chrome pealing off the tips has been a problem. They are now going to a polished aluminum tip. Maybe I can shame them into doing something about these. They want $100 bucks a set, twice what other manufacturers charge. According to Mick these came off a 2006 Venture, so they're not that old. That flat black tip in the video looked OK, and with the black fins might look even better on my '99.
  2. Anyone ever repacked their aftermarket exhausts? Specifically Bub's..., but I imagine they're all similar.. I picked up a set of Bub's from another member in the classy's. They were cheap and as described. The bodies are very nice, but the chrome tips are flaking chrome big time. They're now torn apart and sitting in the office. (see pics) [Gonna try to make a silk purse out of a sows ear here... ] The packing was gone other than a few tufts, and I'm not sure if the tufts are original material or?? I did find some universal fiberglass packing material at Cruiser Customizing that will probably work. The chromed tips look like they have corroded to the point that they will not come off the baffle flange. The tips are aluminum so I think it's probably galvanic corrosion. Any ideas on how to seperate them, or should I leave well enough alone and see if I can scrape the rest of the chrome off and polish or maybe paint??
  3. I'd just crop out the part and post it. Wouldn't worry about what to call it. I don't know if there's a big market for it because that's where everyone usually mounts their Steble. Maybe that why it's discontinued???
  4. What you need to do is go out and test ride a few. You've already been reading some of the pros and cons, and everyone on this board is going to have a different idea... of what's good for them... That's a decision you're going to have to make yourself. No one's going to help make up your mind.
  5. You're gonna have a blast on the NCL Cruise. WE did the eastern Carribian out of Galveston on NCL a few years ago, and the ride was as entertaining as the shore leaves. Freestyle is the only way to go. Don't go if you're on a diet....
  6. Check it again.... The o-ring might not have been the correct type. And... then again you may have a leak in one of the hoses?? Low coolant will keep the sensor from reading the correct temp and may have been the cause of the low guage readings??? Just guessing here...
  7. It's got the 1stGen leak. The o-ring on the drain valve leaks when it's get's cold. I have the same problem.....
  8. I'm thinkin' that it might be a bad thermostat. If it's stuck wide open it'll never get warm on a cold day. What about the carb heaters??
  9. We need a pic!!
  10. I think the police Venture was sold on Ebay 3-4 years ago... And if I remember correctly it came from a retired small town police chief somewhere here in Northern California. When he retired he took the bike with him. He only used it in parades etc., so not many miles on it.... Wish I had copied the pics....
  11. Ya gotta stop adding water to the fluid.... Dark DOT indicates moisture.
  12. And chalk one up for JT......
  13. One more thing that I don't think anyone has mentioned yet. Is the side car wheel alligned properly. It could be toed out or in, and scrubbing, causing more drag and poorer mpg that expected???
  14. Ya forgot the Harley Don.... http://www.bikerenews.com/AntiqueBikes/Nova/144217_NOVA.300x196.jpg
  15. Nice pic of a '99....
  16. I think I must be immune to poisin ivy/summac. I've walked right through patches of the stuff and have never gotten a rash. MOF the wife and kids followed me through some of the stuff once... not on purpose... and they all came down with it. Not me. But... I ain't gonna go out and roll in the stuff..... just because.... Years ago I shot trap and a gun club over on the coast and their trap houses were set right on the lip of a ravine. For over 50 years, at the time, lead shot had been accumulating down on the bottom along with 100% poison summac coverage. In some spots the shot was 2"-3" thick and it couldn't be mined. I heard... I don't know how true this is... that they couldn't burn the summac because the smoke carried the oil and could affect the whole town. So, as far as I know, there's another 40 years of shot accumlation on the bottom....
  17. There are two holes drilled in the bottom of the clutch reserve. The one on the right is for fluid supplied to the master piston. The one on the left.. looks like someone tried to drill a hole and stopped... is very small and allows expanded fluid back into the reserve when the lever is not being applied and at rest. The instructions mention that the surface of the fluid in the reserve will deform a bit when squeezed, so it stands to reason that the hole would be in the bottom of the reserve. To clean it use one of those wire twist ties with the cover stripped off. Usually found in the produce section of your grocery store, or on just about every electrical cord supplied with a new GPS, radio, MP3 player... etc..etc..
  18. Yeah, wait until all these 40-59 year old 'studs' crack the 60 barrier. It's nice traveling 400 miles through sand and sagebrush with the a/c on in 100+ temps. The only killer is the mpg. Trailered to Cody last year and sucked fuel like a horse eating oats. Going to ride to the 2011 International in Cody next year, but going north into Oregon Washington. I've seen enough of the Nevada desert to last a lifetime. I'll still be bring a trailer, but this time I'll be dragging it....
  19. So the '91 has hi/low beam auxilary lights controlled by a on-off-on toggle on the dash..... Are they passing or driving???
  20. I kinda wonder about that. All autos have red brake, turn, and running??? Why are they so special??
  21. I find your criticism curious in that there are so many users of the CarbTune world wide who are perfectly satisfied with it's performance, but your opinion seems to always be 'anti' to the norm. I guess you're just smarter than the rest of us...
  22. So, correect me if I'm wrong here, but what you're saying is that you've never owned one, maybe only used one once or twice, but feel experienced enough to critique the CarbTune?? And that since their webpage uses the term 'rattle', that it means the rods are a sloppy fit in the tubes, and not maybe their expression for the up and down pulsing of the rods?? I also need to find your website reference to 'rattle'. I just searched most of the pages that might have a reference to rattle and couldn't find a thing?? I did find reference to smooth rod operation, and machined fit.
  23. Hmmm. I use the CarbTune and haven't experienced a rattle. I'd send yours back if they're that bad.....
  24. The clutch is one of those areas that's a PITA to bleed. If unsuccessfull try reverse bleeding the thing. I got tired of retyping the proceedure every time so I went ahead and made up a file. Here's a copy. When trying to bleed a clutch that is completely empty of fluid on a Venture, it’s very difficult…maybe impossible… to get all the air purged out of the lines normally because of the location of the reserve to the slave. Unlike bleeding the brakes where the pressure is built up by rapid pumping the pedal or lever, the clutch does not build pressure. Squeezing the clutch lever has to be done slowly and constantly. Using this method causes the air bubbles in the lines to move down toward the slave with each stroke. During the release of the lever the air bubble rises upward in the line. Air rises. So in effect you end up with these bubbles rising and falling and going nowhere. I seen threads over the years where the owner has struggled for days to get the clutch properly bled. Reverse bleeding is done by forcing DOT fluid into the bleeder valve and forcing the air up the line and into the reserve. This can be done several ways. If you have a Speed-Bleeder installed it will have to be removed. If you have a regular bleeder, the reverse bleed can be done with the valve in and open, or you can remove the valve like a speed-bleeder. I find the removal of the valve the easiest. Take a rubber ear wax remover blub that you can find in your local drug store and snip the tip off a little bit at a time until it fits into the threads of the removed valve. It should fit snuggly and the opening should be a bit off the bottom of the hole in the caliper. Remove all the fluid in the reserve. Suck up enough fluid to fill the bulb, insert it in the threads of the slave and force the fluid into the slave. Keep an eye on the reserve to make sure it doesn’t overflow. Not good. Sometimes you can hear bubbles as they make their way out of the line and into the reserve. If the bulb runs out of fluid it can be reloaded. The hole can be blocked off with your finger while refilling. When no more bubbles appear stick the bleeder valve back into the slave, adjust the level of the fluid in the reserve to about half full, replace the reserve top and you’re good to go. This whole process can be done in about 15 minutes. When done go for a ride. PS: After first opening up the reserve, lightly squeeze the clutch lever a tad. The surface of the fluid in the reserve should deform slightly. Squeeze hard and you’ll end up with fluid on you and the bike. Not good. What this shows you is that the expansion orifice is clear and functioning. If it’s plugged the hot expanded fluid will have no place to go, and start to push on the slave as if you were actually pulling the lever. The clutch will start to slip. This is also why the reserve should be only filled half way. I have seen owners spend a lot of money rebuilding their clutches, and all the reserve had was a plugged expansion hole. Hope this helps
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