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Condor

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Everything posted by Condor

  1. Condor

    Beartooth

    Right now the plan, after Cody, is for a group to head back to the West Coast thru Kalispell, so they can visit Glacier. Overnighting somewhere on the way.. Helena Motel 6??..and then Kalispell Motel 6. I already put the bite on my Brother to serve the group breakfast the morning after Kalispell 6. You going to tag along?? Cody2Kalispell
  2. So if the failures occur when extra aux. equipment is installed and not relayed, then the possibility of failure with an OEM bike reduces greatly??? I do have driving lights on the '99, but rarely use them. Only at night, and that doesn't happen very often. Otherwise they're off. It would be interesting to know if any stock bikes have suffered ignition switch failure?? Another question. Are the driving lights spliced into the existing wiring or is it a plug and play set up???
  3. Well first off Earl the center stand ain't off a 1stGen, it's a 2ndGen stand.... at least on this one... And what's wrong with cassettes? Have Cassettes..Will Travel. Who wants to carry around one of those cute little girly IPOD's when we have a manly tape deck on board.... And I don't serve a master... I have a Harem!!! Caliper?? See they are related. And a little biased ain't you Earl?? All bikes have warts. Comes with the territory. Good thing too. Huh?? Gives someone a chance to sell a bunch of kits for those warts....
  4. Condor

    Beartooth

    Post away Jay. Those are really nice pics....
  5. Looks like you're going to be ready for Cody in July.... Here's sometime that may help a little in your search. CycleKamp
  6. Condor

    Beartooth

    Didn't work for me. Maybe the site is overloaded with traffic??? So far 0 for 2.... In July will have lots of pics posted from the VR International, so be patient...
  7. My 84, 87, 90, 91,and 93 have center stands just like my 99....
  8. To remove the slave you're going to have to take off the middle gear cover. The banjo bolt is easy to get to once it's off. The slave is held to the engine casing by two hex cap screws. 6mm/#25 I think?? Once the slave is loose it will come out by rotating it upside down. Be patient... I'd take Earl's suggestion and pick up a new slave. Might as well since you're in there anyway. Then order another SpeedBleeder and get back on the road. I wouldn't bother sending the old slave in. Play with it...you might get lucky...
  9. Not normally, but I'm not perfect and sometimes I have... Besides if the decline is great enough it only takes a little movement to get that sidestand to start to collapse. Don't ask how I know that..... I guess if you park your scoot like that, in gear or out, you've got bigger cajones than I have. Better to park it up hill and not worry. Ditto on the kill switch. Keeps the contacts clean...
  10. You can do this on the right front brake if you have a 'problem' bubble in the lines somewhere, but with a Speed-Bleeder installed it really isn't necessary. One thing I have found is that instead of initially pumping the brakes up to seat the pads, and then do the 3 pumps and bleed meathod, wait and just pump fluid through the system until all the air is out.... then pump up the pressure. I did this when installing new R1 Calipers on the '83 and had them airless and both calipers pumped up in about 10 minutes. What the deal is, is with the pistons pressed back into the caliper body there is a smaller cavity to air out. Once the air is out they're good to pump up and remain airless....unless you forget to keep the reserve topped off... It'll even work on the left side using the pedal...
  11. I hate to keep preaching about reverse bleeding the clutch to get the air out of the lines, but I haven't mentioned it lately, so here goes again..... When trying to bleed a clutch that is completely empty of fluid on a Venture, it’s very difficult…maybe impossible… to get all the air purged out of the lines normally because of the location of the reserve to the slave. Unlike bleeding the brakes where the pressure is built up by rapid pumping the pedal or lever, the clutch does not build pressure. Squeezing the clutch lever has to be done slowly and constantly. Using this method causes the air bubbles in the lines to move down toward the slave with each stroke. During the release of the lever the air bubble rises upward in the line. Air rises. So in effect you end up with these bubbles rising and falling and going nowhere. I seen threads over the years where the owner has struggled for days to get the clutch properly bled. Reverse bleeding is done by forcing DOT fluid into the bleeder valve and forcing the air up the line and into the reserve. This can be done several ways. If you have a Speed-Bleeder installed it will have to be removed. If you have a regular bleeder, the reverse bleed can be done with the valve in and open, or you can remove the valve like a speed-bleeder. I find the removal of the valve the easiest. Take a rubber ear wax remover blub... the bigger the better.. that you can find in your local drug store and snip the tip off a little bit at a time until it fits into the threads of the removed valve. It should fit snuggly and the tip should be a bit off the bottom of the hole in the caliper. Remove all the fluid in the reserve. Suck up enough new DOT 3 or 4 fluid to fill the bulb, insert it in the threads of the slave and force the fluid into the slave. Keep an eye on the reserve to make sure it doesn’t overflow. Not good. Sometimes you can hear bubbles as they make their way out of the line and into the reserve. If the bulb runs out of fluid it can be reloaded. The hole can be blocked off with your finger while refilling. When no more bubbles appear stick the bleeder valve back into the slave, adjust the level of the fluid in the reserve to about half full, replace the reserve top and you’re good to go. This whole process can be done in about 15 minutes. When done go for a ride. PS: After first opening up the reserve, lightly squeeze the clutch lever a tad. The surface of the fluid in the reserve should deform slightly. Squeeze hard and you’ll end up with fluid on you and the bike. Not good. What this shows you is that the expansion orifice is clear and functioning. If it’s plugged the hot expanded fluid will have no place to go, and start to push on the slave as if you were actually pulling the lever. The clutch will start to slip. This is also why the reserve should be only filled half way. I have seen owners spend a lot of money rebuilding their clutches, and all the reserve had was a plugged expansion hole. Hope this helps
  12. The number of pumps is varible depending on how ugly the fluid is when starting. If your fluid is clear, don't bother bleeding. However, I'd bleed them every other spring whether they need it or not....
  13. Blue might look cool, but red won't mess up your night vision. It will make red needles disappear tho......
  14. Link didn't work for me.....
  15. 'Nother thing... It takes a lot of guts to put a bike on the sidestand with that kind of decline... Things will go boom..... Nice effect though..
  16. I donno, but that seems like a lot of bucks to have Bluetooth capabilities. My GPS has Bluetooth/MP3 and syncs to my cell phone. Buddy Rich is building a cable to allow voice thru the head set mike that plugs into the Aux of the tape deck. GPS... $60 bucks, Cable..... $40. I supposed for someone that needs to be the first on the block to own something, the $600 can be justified?? Way too much for this kid....
  17. I have a 92 Fleetwood Terry 26B and the roof is sealed with a rubberized product. Doesn't leak a drop. Being in the boating biz I've found those damn leaks can be quite a ways off from where it shows up. If everything has been sealed it's probably your AC or other vent thru the roof.
  18. Have you been messing around with your antennas lately?? That thing looks like the tip to the co-ax. Maybe?? Just a guess....
  19. Thanks. I knew I could depend on youse guys... Looks pretty simple. Since mine going is a sure thing, like death and taxes, I think I'll install a hidden toggle and be ready for the big day.
  20. Hey George... I've seen posts on using a liquid tank sealer for rusted tanks, but if your's isn't too far gone maybe pulling it and having it brazed might be the answer. I just can't see anything standing up to gas over a period of time.
  21. With a dash that's designed with that retro old school look, whadda they expect??? Be thankful that Y didn't get a deal on 8 tracks....
  22. I just went poking around in the tech section and didn't see anything that's related to the ignition by-pass on a 2ndGen. Maybe someone should take some pics and write something up?? I didn't do an in depth search so if it's already been done a link would help....
  23. Ya kinda knew where the story was going, but it was still funnier than 'H' when ya got there......
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